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#106
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I was thinking about this the other day, could you make a plate to go over the original mounting area for the OEM vacuum pump, but bring the "power" out through a shaft and have it drive something like a vacuum pump from a early 7.3 ford diesel? then maybe still use the electric for low vacuum, like at idle, if needed?
other than that, i would guess maybe going to a serpentine belt setup so you can stack all the stuff close together
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"NEW" 1984 300D TD needs some love |
#107
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The Red/Green-stripe wire is the positive and the Brown/Green-stripe wire is ground.
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#108
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At first look, the electrical pump seemed elegant and interesting, but alas, the design of the VCV for the auto trans, just makes it impractical. For manual transmission cars, I think it is a real excellent option.
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#109
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"NEW" 1984 300D TD needs some love |
#110
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I like the idea of the blanking plate with bearing holding a shaft picking up power from the center of the dual cam drive. What is in the center? Can the dual cam wheel be removed without everything falling apart behind it? I think the dual cam wheel has to be removed to allow a flat plate to mount and use the original gasket and bolts.
VW has a engine driven rotary vane vacuum pump that could be mounted to the blanking plate. Some machining would be required. On second thought a bearing would not be required as the VW pump has a bearing at it's base. I think. There has to be a way to solve this problem, after all we have, on this board, a collection of the best automotive minds in the world. I have my hat of to mack4 for the work he has done on this problem. I purchased a Volvo Vacuum pump and a switch only to see the BUSTED sign. Hart broken but not out of the game.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#111
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Problem is the VW rotary vane vacuum pump run the opposite direction to the 617 engine. Oh well.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#112
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There are combination alternator/vac pump units that would probably be relatively easy to setup.
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#113
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Yes, that is what my '85 Mitsubishi 2.3 turbodiesel pickup uses.
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#114
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hmmmm that sounds interesting, now can we build the alternator large enough to have an on board welder and the room to add a york compressor for on board air..... i so just need a unimog
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"NEW" 1984 300D TD needs some love |
#115
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Question for Mach4. Is the VCB bleed so great that the pump would run constant at half or full throttle or close to it? You mentioned an average of around 8Hg. Would a reservoir help?
The Alternator mounted pump sounds great till the problem of getting oil to and draining back to the engine base has to be considered. Is there any place that a venturi could operate. Would a minimal restriction in the intake ahead of the turbo charger be possible?
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#116
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#117
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#118
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I even thought of creating some kind of a VCV replacement, as well as doing a quick search for a manual modulator that would allow eliminating the VCV altogether. Again, too complex.
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#119
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I think I made a significant find for this conversion. There's a company called EV parts that offers a vacuum switch designed for this type of application. I found them online and they're EV as in Electric Vehicle Parts. Inc. - they specialize in bits for EV builders. The woman on the phone said that they have these built with the right parameters for automotive use. You'll need to run the pump thru a relay but that's not a big deal.
EDIT: I just double checked and the vacuum setting is adjustable but comes from the factory at 18-22"Hg. As I understand it, this means that the pump will switch on at 18" and off at 22". I'll crank mine down a little as I don't need that much just for shut-off. The bottom line is you fork over about $40 (with shipping) and you get a device that will switch the pump off and on as needed to maintain a pre-set vacuum level. Mine's on the way Dan |
#120
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You mean this one which was referenced in the original post in this thread?
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