OM616 Build-up for Ford ranger Swap

[rjz5400]

So the general plan right now is to use the
240d engine (that you may have seen parted out from a trans pull)
A 1984 300sd transmission IIRC Auto of course
and a custom adaptor to make the switch to ford DS

I am also considering how i can adapt the ford (Muncie?) trnasfer case to the auto and keep 4wd OR trying to make a pilot adaptor along with a spacer plate to use the stock mazda four speed that came with the truck....

Likely I will go 2wd and auto for now as it is in my shed and easy




THE MOTOR

has the mercedes oil separator which I plan on replacing with an aluminum or steel homemade one that works a little better and vents into the atmosphere rather than the intake.

An intake flapper or throttle which will likely also hit the recycle bin.

EGR Delete plates (no emissions here in NC for diesels makes it cool right??)

It also appears to have the vacuum system for an Auto with the black cover and green dampener dashpot

and I may just weld in a bung for a turbo drain return as i may do that in the future and ad a modest amount of boost like 5lbs. Ill start a new thread for that.

other performance upgrade options include
Water Meth injection
timing advance
Turbo- injectors?
bigger exhaust (muffler only, no resonator)
Two tank WVO kit
some sort of new air filter setup eventually



as far as maintenance goes I plan on going ahead and doing the
Valves
Check timing (drip method)
new gaskets on pan and valve cover
rebuild starter (are 616 617s the same?)
obviously i am going to start with new filter all around
Water pump?
thermostat?
check all the bolts, lines, and gaskets and replace as needed.

Any other suggestions or ideas??

Looking for performance setup tips, as well as any repair stuff that is worth fixing before it gets dropped in place. I mean i can get at it in place and i have many times before but this is a rare opportunity to have un fettered access to the motor and trans before putting it in.

But of course I am doing this on a budget and the motor appeared to be working fine before it was pulled, quick start, some power, little smoke. But It had been sitting for a few years at a mechanics due to an unpaid bill.







yes that is the truck for the motor.

[daw_two]

A Cummins in your Ford would be a better option. Just saying. If you want to know more, please let me know. I know where you can get a Cummins 4BT engine.

[rjz5400]

you have a 4bt with a manual and transfer case bolted to it? for cheapssssss.....

otherwise that will be a swap for another day. If you do, then sure, I am interested.

[Walkenvol]

Most folks doing this type of repower use the OM617. I'd fear a serious lack of power with a 240D motor. Aren't they in the 60 - 80 hp range? At a minimum, I'd find a T-5 manual and make an adaptor plate.

[Simpler=Better]

With proper mods to support it the record for a 616 is 240HP IIRC. With a turbo and some pump work you should be able to put down 120hp.

I would adapt the Ford transmission. You will want to use the 240 flywheel/PP and Ford clutch disc. Spacing should be pretty easy to measure if you have both motors side by side.


With the old style front suspension oil pan clearance shouldn't be a problem-you may need a body or suspension lift.



Performance:

• Cut up a ford 2.3L aftermarket turbo manifold until it fits the 616. The log manifolds aren't that great.
  
• Install a pyrometer and exhaust pressure gauge pre turbo. Don't go over 1,000*F to play it safe
  
• keep your intake, port it as necessary
  
• get your injectors serviced for the turbo pop pressure
  
• check/correct timing chain stretch
  
• Set your drop timing to 26-28 depending on if it knocks or not
  
• adjust your pump, there is a guide on STD
  
• pull your prechambers and ream them (also on STD)
  
• For W/M the easiest way to spray is with a mcmaster-carr nozzle, place it far upstream. individual port injection is a good way to do it as well.
  
• Get a modern turbo, preferably a VNT
  
• Remove your fan and install an electric one.
  
• possibly remove your vac pump, or at least inspect the bearing before moving forward (search on here)
• Straight exhaust-use only passthrough mufflers
• There should be plenty of space for an Air/Air intercooler up front-if you spray methanol spray it post intercooler

if you're going bonkers:
Port the head
install sodium valves from a 617 turbo
install turbo rods & pistons
drill&tap the block for oil sprayers. this one is talked about but I've yet to see evidence.
fabricate a girdle to go between the block and upper oil pan
balance all moving parts
install the 617 oil pump-it's got more flow
send the pump to dieselmenken for a BIG upgrade
fabricate a nice exhaust header from scratch
go to a large modern turbo

[Walkenvol]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

With proper mods to support it the record for a 616 is 240HP IIRC. With a turbo and some pump work you should be able to put down 120hp.

Why is this a better solution that using the OM617 at 125 hp in stock format? For me, all the mods listed would be more expensive than sourcing an OM617.

Do you agree that a 616 in stock format is very weak for a truck re-power?

[rjz5400]

well as dan stokes put it, " the best reason to use the auto is that it exists"

All those performance upgrades seem logical and doable, well the stage one ones.

Maybe i can work harder at keeping the manual, but it needs a rebuild and i just don't have the cash to throw at adaptor machining and parts. Also i didn't get the flywheel PP for the manual. That went with my buddy for his 4 speed swap.

My goals here are Great mileage like 30+, the ability to haul people, furniture, dirt, and a trailer. and not have to worry about the stupid gas motor needing a sensor or some dumb gas tuneup stuff.

I dont care if it will only hit 60 or 70 mph, I can mess with the gears in the rear if I want better top or bottom end. And I have driven a 240d for years so i don't mind if it is a little slower than todays modern rocket machines either.


BUT!!!! if someone has any ideas or tips about making the adaptor parts or any experience doing it, I will certainly take them, I do have some metalworking friends like with bandsaws, plasma tables, and access to a water jet machine. Also Bridgeport mill and lathe stuff. So i CAN get it done I just don't know if I am willing to do all the work it will take to bolt it up.

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by Walkenvol

Why is this a better solution that using the OM617 at 125 hp in stock format? For me, all the mods listed would be more expensive than sourcing an OM617.

Do you agree that a 616 in stock format is very weak for a truck re-power?

Oh absolutely, the 617 is a better motor for building up than the 616. It's got all the goodies stock!

I'm assuming the OP already knows this-he's got a couple 240D and a 300SD in his sig-we both know there's a huge difference between the two

rjz5400-any chance you'd look into an OM602? It would be lighter and better on gas. There is no way you're going to hit 30mpg in a 4wd brick. My 98 with alloy rims, the 4cyl, 2wd, better aerodynamics, etc. only gets 23mpg driving at highway speeds. If I go 55 then I can hit the high 20s.

One of these days I'll measure my junk and post up a nice drawing. I just don't have the hours to spare right now.

[Air&Road]

Interesting swap. The four should fit in the Ranger engine compartment nicely. You will have to use beefier front springs though.

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by Air&Road

Interesting swap. The four should fit in the Ranger engine compartment nicely. You will have to use beefier front springs though.

F150 fronts drop right in

[wildhorsemfg]

if you check out my thread ,, you will see why a 616 will fit better MAZDA B2600 powered by Benz diesel

[97 SL320]

Cummins 4B is a heavy engine at about 600 LB ( that is big block V8 weight ) and not the best combo for a ~ 3200 LB truck.

Do you really need 4 WD? Dumping the xfer case and front diff / axles will pull weight off the truck. Keep the arms / spindles, just block off the stub axle hole with a freeze plug / slug. The Bronco 2 was built as a 2 WD for a while so this isn't new ground )

The transfer case should be a Borg Warner 1350 ish ( these came as a electric shift and mechanical ) Look for a 2 " diameter aluminum tag with a red gear printed on it on the back of the case, all the info will be on that.

In theory you could take a Ford auto trans output shaft and parking gear to make a adapter. Drill the parking gear to match the MB trans output flange, cut off the MB trans stub then bolt everything together. If there is room on the shaft, use 2 parking gears for added spline strength. To make an adapter use a couple of steel plates and tubing. The transfer case uses a circular ledge for location, I'm not sure what the MB trans uses. ( This only works if the MB tailshaft unbolts.)

If you have a 4 speed trans it will be a Toyo Koygo ( Mazda ) unit with a aluminum pan, there is a 5 speed version that has a OD unit built into the back. A stronger choice is a Mazda M50R from a 88 up 2 WD Ranger ( there is a larger version used in the F150 ) but these never were used in 4WD Rangers near as I can tell.

There is also a Mitsubishi steel pan 5 speed used only in later 4wd apps.

The cross member under the engine that will probably need cut / replaced with a built up unit as the stock Ranger is rear sump.

Early Rangers could have been gotten with a Mazda or Mitsu diesel that probably had less power than the MB unit.

The 2.3 Ford turbo gas motor manifold isn't worth cutting to splice to a MB motor, just make something fresh.

[rjz5400]

OH mY that is a lot of info tossed at me.

1. I own the 616 motor.
2. I also have an Auto Transmission Mercedes
3. I also own a Ranger 4wd truck 5 speed (M5OD) that needs a rebuild


The more info and opinions I get the more i think it really makes sense to sell the 4wd ranger (after putting in a junkyard trans)

and buy a 2wd blown truck with no motor or trans (Plenty of rangers meet that description) OR buy one that has the kit to adapt it to the mercedes like a toyota basically only a toyota

[97 SL320]

Something else, If you use the MB trans in 2 wd mode, use a 4WD rear drive shaft for the sliding yoke and a Ford diff end bolt on flange. You should be able to make an adapter disc to bolt everything to the trans.

[wildhorsemfg]

you can make it 2wd with the auto for now , and eventually find a old devorced transfercase and put it in there and custom make 3 driveshafts .

im guessing you wont have power with a 616 n/a to use a OD most of the time even if you had one .