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#46
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I'm impressed
i might just have to copy this setup
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#47
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I have a 5-inch, android Dell Streak with a broken screen in the drawer. I can replace the screen again for about $100, and use it for this function.
Can't wait for your project to be completed!
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. 1st MBz: 1982 300SD 2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL 3rd MBz: 1995 S420 4th MBz: 1987 190DT 5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine 6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles. and manages Mom's 2007 R320 CDI |
#48
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You're more than welcome to copy anything you want...well almost anything. I won't share the code, at least for now - it's so convoluted and weird it's downright embarrassing. So bad it probably wouldn't do anyone any good anyhow.
Everything but the TIT is working (still awaiting the probe). Got the temp sensors mounted in the car. Like everything on this project though, nothing goes easy. Each temperature sensor has it's own unique ID. The typical way to get the temps is to just read the values in ID order. Of course I had none of the sensors attached to the proper item it was to monitor, so it was back to the code to adjust the read order. It was pretty painless to figure out which was which by just using a small butane torch on each sensor and then watching the readout to figure out which it belonged to. I took a drive to test the system and I'm quite happy with the way it's turned out...very stable, quite responsive and interesting to watch the gauges under various conditions. The main complaint I have is that if you lose the connection, it won't reconnect right away. In actual use, this won't be a problem, but in troubleshooting mode, it's kind of a pain. Here is the intake sensor mounting.
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#49
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Got the TIT probe (EGT) in the mail yesterday and swapped in the new "test pipe" with the port I fabricated for the probe. Got everything hooked up and did a 1500' hard pull up the 6% grade near us and only got 622 degrees, which I thought was pretty interesting until I realized that I had forgotten to include the C to F conversion in the code. Dohh...
With everything now working reliably I'm prepared to call the project complete... of course, everyone knows that no project is ever really complete . I may still include a vertical card compass at some time in the future, and I've got some ideas for some other gauge screens for the library, but that will be another project... I won't be publishing code for the project, but if someone is interested in tackling a similar project, I'm happy to share notes and experiences and code snippets off line.
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#50
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I am going to start on getting the Tach running on mine. Your install is impressive, way cleaner than what I have. I wonder if I can run the wires for my lcd screen 3' and put the box in the engine bay....
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#51
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Quote:
My bluetooth setup has proven to be very reliable...once I get it started. It often refuses to connect and locks up if it can't connect requiring a reboot of the phone. I've learned a ton from monitoring the temps and pressures. Good luck.
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#52
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mach4, very nice work. Have you posted a video of it in operation?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#53
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Quote:
in the meantime, here are a couple of pictures of it in use.
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Last edited by mach4; 03-10-2014 at 11:44 AM. Reason: add images |
#54
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The old HTC cell phone finally bit the dust. So I bought an eBay phablet for $60 to replace it. Overall it's not bad, and certainly for the price it's very serviceable. I wouldn't use one as a tablet phone, but for this application where I'm only using bluetooth and display, it's a good value.
The screen resolution is 1000x600, compared to 600x480 for the HTC, so all the screens had to be redone as well as all the gauge sweeps. This is horizontal only so my old vertical screens were redone as well.
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#55
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After much thought and considering multiple options for a permanent installation strategy for my Engine Instrumentation Console, I decided to attempt to mount it in the steering wheel. The window or center console option using a suction cup mount was not all that elegant and any installation in the center console itself would require lots of modification or a hinge mechanism that would allow access to the climate controls.
My first step was to try to cut out a mounting in the horn foam but it was just too difficult. So I tried using a small wire brush on the drill and it did a fantastic job. Here's the horn pad clearanced for the display. The next problem was to get power to the unit, so I did some surgery on a 12v cigarette lighter USB adapter. I hooked wires to the + and - connectors and put it back into the case with the leads coming out the end. I thought I would be able to run a power wire up through the column but there just wasn't enough room. Here is where I absolutely lucked out - the horn power comes into the center of the column through two slide rings AND the power is switched, so the tablet cannot run the battery down if left on. I was able to "T" into the power source and run a ground to one of the screws inside the steering wheel. This isn't a perfect ground, but testing shows that it maintains continuity 90% of the time or more. Since the power is really just charging the battery in the tablet,90% is more than adequate and works perfectly...so far. And the horn still works as it should. The next problem was how to mount the display so that it could be removed easily if needed. The solution was to mount a ceramic magnet in the center that will hold the display in it's recess. I would have loved to have it mount flush, but there just wasn't enough material to hog out that much of a recess. Here's a test fit in the horn pad prior to installation. Here's the unit installed and operating And a closer shot. I'm not thrilled with the way I had to hog out an extra recess to get power to the tablet, but I guess it's better than hanging off the windshield. Remember, this project gets its data through bluetooth, so the tablet can be mounted (or carried) anywhere in range and still operate. It would have been impossible to mount it in the steering wheel without this design attribute.
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#56
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One more underway...
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#57
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Very impressive work and project.
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#58
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For the MPG how about a pair of these. Flow Sensor One on the fuel intake and one on the return line. Then you just take the difference and that is fuel used. Use either gps or something else to figure out distance and voila. MPG.
As for the old computers I had one and the instructions said that it needed some additional parts to possibly work with diesels. I don't have it anymore cause it was one of those things I bought NIB for $2 at auction and sold for $150 on ebay. |
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Dodged a bullet on this project today. Last night after replacing the starter (what an ugly job) I gave the engine bay a pressure wash. In the process I got water in my electronics case and the Arduino quit working. I dried it out real good and dried the circuit board but still no joy. Finally I doused it with acetone and let it sit for awhile and it started working again. Needless to say I drilled some drain holes and will be a lot more careful next time around washing the engine bay.
I've started another phase on this project, specifically to add fuel pressure and voltage to the monitoring suite. A thread on the fuel pressure piece is at Adding a Fuel Pressure Gauge The voltage circuit will be just a simple voltage bridge allowing readings from 0 to 50 volts, a range that should cover any spikes that could take out an Arduino analog pin. Sure glad I didn't have to rebuild my circuit due to water.
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#60
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Got the fuel pressure and voltage components up and running on the system. Here's a picture of my latest option in the screen data presentation library which includes the fuel pressure and voltage readings.
One of the pieces to the solution of mounting the tablet in the steering wheel was to create a "slip ring" for ground. The horn circuit brings power into the steering wheel through two slip rings - one for power in (switched power) and one for power out to the horn which is grounded to the chassis. So I was able to tap the power for the tablet but had no reliable ground. The solution was to create a "slip ring" using a thick piece of copper wire around the steering shaft and a small ground wire along the outside of the steering tube to a ground behind the dash. Not the best solder job, but serviceable for a ground. Since my gauges display is a tablet, I've also got apps running for a heads up display and navigation. After my experience last summer with the alternator going out without warning and my propensity to extend filter changes, having volts and fuel pressure data readily available is a very comforting feeling. I'm convinced that a lot of my early problems were due to the HTC phone I was using for a data display. The new system is totally reliable and I was able to double the packet rate with no ill effects. I still need to mill a bracket for the fuel pressure transducer to make the physical installation complete.
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