Oh yes suckered by a badge...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Not sure I know what you mean by this but if I've somehow misled you into thinking this is a current project then I'm sorry.
It was finished and running by July last year, however, I was getting to that eventually.
The interior pic showing the auto changer is from mid 2011 and was just to show the interior. Here's the Getrag shifter if it helps.





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Ya I thought this was a current build you were doing also.

Keep posting the pictures as you went along with the project, this is very informative to see how you fabricated things to over come the stumbling blocks.

I know there is more to it than "ya we pulled the old engine on Friday, and dropped in the new one, fabed a few things and drove it to work on Monday".


I guess that is the parking brake handle to the left of the Steering Column?



Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I for one don't care if it's a current build, a project you are contemplating, or it finished 10 years ago, and you are just getting around to showing what you did, and how it looks!
as long as you took good pictures, and you documented your progress, and are putting it up here on the forum, I'm STOKED to read and save this thread!

THANK YOU FOR PUTTING THIS UP ON HERE FOR US TO DROOL OVER!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

This......he even chose the right MB turbodiesel engine I would have.......a fast one!!!

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

Pictures are cool but video is WAY better!!

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Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

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The original ‘small case’ diff in the UK 280SL is 3.85:1 which, in 4th, has the engine pulling nearly 4000 revs at 70mph. Way too low a ratio for a diesel engine that has it’s peak torque at just over 2000. The W210 original ratio is 2.87:1 but it pulls an overdrive 5th which the Getrag close ratio box doesn’t have.
Using a spreadsheet inputting ratios, wheel sizes and revs a diff ratio of 2.47:1 seemed to be near ideal from those available. 2.24:1 would have given it longer legs but at the expense of better acceleration and hill climbing ability. There's plenty of need for that in Scotland .



Back in 2004 during a tour of Germany the car broke one of the rear CV joints. Merc were good with the repair but a duplicate axleshaft of the original ‘plug-in’ type is no longer available so the conversion to flanged shaft was done. This involved using the flange from a W124 and shaft from a W123. Also, this left it with one flanged and one plug-in and eventually the different rotating masses caused the diff to start whining. The next year I converted the remaining side to flange although by that time the whine was permanent and not to be fixed.



Sourcing a 2.47 diff is not easy as it seems they were only ever fitted to 3.8 engined cars however I got one in England off a W126 SEL and had it transported north by friends from the UK Owners Club. This is it as delivered, and not willing to scrap $1600 worth of new axleshafts, I had to convert it to flange fixings.




To get flanges to enter the casing far enough for the retaining circlips to engage involved converting the output bearing housings from bolts to countersunk machine screws and skimming 2mm from the inner face of the flanges.



Since removing the bearing cages releases the differential the end float for the new flanges could be given a preliminary set up on the bench. This involves measuring endfloat and swapping in shims till the required zero float is achieved.



These markings on the end of the pinion shaft are the original factory settings. A little bit of history re-discovered.



These diffs are set up at the factory with bearing pre-load and with me fitting new seals and O-rings this had to be checked.
Here is my interpretation of the factory tool. It measures the spread of the diff case as the housing bolts are tightened to a set torque.





And finished: awaiting circlips: and side by side with the old for comparison.





And finally….installed in the car complete with its axleshafts.




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Nice job Derek......

Keep them coming because although I've seen them before, I never get tired of seeing the photos......

All of I have to say is wow. Just WOW.

Your work is incredible.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

ok, you need to bring your shop and skills to my house!

the work you are doing is just amazing! wow.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Did you do any further checks on the differential such as checking the crown and pinion contact patch with engineers' blue or measuring the backlash?

I guess if you haven't had any noise from it this wouldn't matter though - but it would be interesting to know

(For the record I'm not bothered if it is current or not but I was a bit confused)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

^ Thanks all.

I'm loath to touch pinion settings. There was negligible backlash at the drive flange so best left alone. It's one thing measuring and changing shims around. Different story altogether messing with crush washers and torque settings. Not for me thanks .
For just that reason I didn't go down the road of changing the flange for a smaller more suitable one. As usual...more on that later.

Let sleeping dogs lie. Which in hindsight was wise...the diff is quiet.

Final fitting of the engine. The procedure is…lift engine on chainblock which is hanging through engine bay and suspended from beam above , slide subframe underneath and bolt up mountings then chock it on blocks, drop car down on hoist and bolt subframe to body.



It fits!



Now for all the connecting up. Firstly…the oil cooler pipes. The originals were cut and new fittings crimped on. Then extended out through the left inner wing and round the front to where the original 280 oil cooler was now mounted across the front of the main radiator.

Another homemade fitting to support the weight of the pipes.






An extra subframe to support the new oilcooler, W210 radiator and eventually, the intercooler.




A trial filling of the (facelift) front spoiler now showed that the normal cooler connections would protrude way too far out in front. A trawl through the EPC found suitable bent connections were used on W123 coolers but only those exported to the US. An email to my good buddy in San Diego soon had two of the correct fittings winging their way across the Atlantic. Thanks Mach4, isn’t t’internet wonderful.



These I got crimped to the extended hoses and with a minor relieving of slots in the spoiler they all fit just fine.








Next, the power steering pump. Rather than mess about with steel lines I opted to go for flexibles to run the whole length. More expensive than steel but infinitely easier to position and also to maintain.

The power steering pump from a W201 -190. It's working pressure is better suited to the 107 steering box.
Note also the additional primary diesel filter with priming pump and water-trap.



Pipes clipped across the front subframe and good view of front wall of new sump.

And round the engine foot; with protective anti-chaff stainless sleeve cable-tied in place.

Nice one.

I'm in the middle of trying to fix up my W201 differential which is famed for being noisy - I guess the differential you have is of better quality.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!