Not "another" diesel 107!! - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #1 01-26-2014, 09:16 AM

The envy will be too much if you can crimp your own hoses!

Druk · #2 01-26-2014, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

The envy will be too much if you can crimp your own hoses!

Yeh! I wish. The hose shop is not far from my house however and they let me home with handfuls of fittings on a sale-or-return basis. Then crimp the ends for a decent discount.
Another 'poor' Merc owner who can't afford a proper garage.

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ROLLGUY · #3 01-26-2014, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Druk

Another 'poor' Merc owner who can't afford a proper garage.

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It sure looks like you are doing just fine without that "proper" garage!

Druk · #4 01-27-2014, 11:07 AM

^

Turbo time. The new engine feet obstructed the original fitting place of the turbo so made up a 90deg adaptor that lifted it up and away from the manifold. Two flanges and a pre-bend pipe.

That works but had the side effect of moving the turbo oil return away from its connection on the crankcase.

So an ally spacer is made and the rigid pipe cut and joined with a flexible section.

Wastegate. Original has vacuum operated unit. Since this car now has no vacuum operated anything (door locks are converted to remote electric) the wastegate is changed to pressure type. Make new bracket to mount this and sliding box with spring to ensure wastegate valve holds shut. Rose joint end to allow for slight arc of operating arm.

The two nuts allow for very fine adjustment of the gate flap.

Exhaust time. As some of the guys over on STD have discovered the biggest problem converting right-hand-drive cars can be the steering box interfering with the downpipe. The original 280 version had its pipe coming down in front of the subframe then under the center crossmember. That’s not an option here and to run it down between the ‘box and bulkhead was very tight for space. Using a tight bend where the pipe exits the turbo there is just room in front of the ‘box between it and the engine foot.
Cut slots in spare length of driveshaft tube to allow shallow bending. Wedge it in place and weld to off-cut from 210 downpipe.

Remove pipe, manifold, and strip turbo casing and send them off for ceramic coating. Meanwhile, graft new flexible oil supply pipe onto stub at crankcase.

Where it joins main system under car, and bracket onto bellhousing.

Happen upon local supplier of 60mm pre-formed piping bends in 316 grade stainless steel.

Tack these together and send off to be Tig welded. Then grind and polish welds so it looks one-piece. Attach to 80mm straight through stainless silencer off RangeRover donated by pal.

Jumping ahead a few months this was found to be too noisy on hard acceleration and cruise so cut and add Cherry Bomb to middle section. That small silencer has a huge effect on the noise but little on the performance.

Throttle. The oil filter housing blanked any real chance of utilising the existing rod and crank system so decided to go for cable system. Make new lever and attach this to throttle cross-shaft up above drivers footwell.

Since this will be essentially a summer car there is no need for the fuel pre-heater on the cyl head. Remove this and make blanking plate incorporating throttle cable stop.

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funola · #5 01-27-2014, 11:49 AM

Beautiful work druk! What is your fuel filter assembly with the priming pump and glass water trap bowl from? I have one that uses a similar glass bowl and filter element made by (I think) Purflux for a Peugeot and love it. I want to eventually add a water in fuel sensor to the bowl.

t walgamuth · #6 01-27-2014, 01:34 PM

lovely work!

dude99 · #7 01-27-2014, 03:48 PM

SO if you've removed the entire vacuum system what have you done for the breaks? Hydroboost?

Druk · #8 01-27-2014, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dude99

SO if you've removed the entire vacuum system what have you done for the breaks? Hydroboost?

Sorry. My bad again

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What I meant was 'all vacuum to ancilliary functions'. Door locks, headlamp height, heater controls etc. The brakes still have a direct vacuum line. All I had to retain was the IP shut-off line which I teed into the brake line. More on that soon.

Derek.

tjts1 · #9 01-27-2014, 06:39 PM

shingleback · #10 01-27-2014, 07:14 PM

Wonderful work, this is so much fun to read.

vstech · #11 01-28-2014, 07:34 AM

I think the 4120R2 is a better buy, it's $240, but has twice the capacity of the 460... at 2micron (I wonder if it's nominal or absolute?)

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextdiv=A49072&vgnextcatid=2759468&vgnextcat=4120R+SERIES+FUEL+FILTER%2FWATER+SEPARATORS&Wtky=

I found one on EBAY, $214!

funola · #12 01-28-2014, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I think the 4120R2 is a better buy, it's $240, but has twice the capacity of the 460... at 2micron (I wonder if it's nominal or absolute?)

Parker - 4120R SERIES FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATORS

I found one on EBAY, $214!

I am sure it's nominal. 2 micron is not needed for our old diesels with low pressure injectors. I am sure the Racor is a good filter but too expensive and overkill for the 617's.

Stretch · #13 01-29-2014, 10:20 AM

I doubt if a MOT tester would have known that it was modified - but like you say probably for the best

Druk · #14 01-29-2014, 10:35 AM

^ You're right, and I had debated that with myself. However, the way the test is now computerised back to TWMBO, if it had failed that fault would be flagged up on the database for ever until it was rectified. Not worth the risk.

Big Brother is watching.

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Stretch · #15 01-29-2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Druk

...
Big Brother is watching.

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He is indeed but most governmental computerised systems seem to be Microsoft dependent so anything can happen - you might go next year and they'll say it is a Mini Cooper not a Mercedes...

...or "it failed the air brake test Sir"...