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  #61  
Old 01-28-2014, 07:34 AM
vstech's Avatar
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I think the 4120R2 is a better buy, it's $240, but has twice the capacity of the 460... at 2micron (I wonder if it's nominal or absolute?)

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextdiv=A49072&vgnextcatid=2759468&vgnextcat=4120R+SERIES+FUEL+FILTER%2FWATER+SEPARATORS&Wtky=


I found one on EBAY, $214!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
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  #62  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Druk View Post
I can't post a direct link to the one I've got, sorry. It was from a local shop who don't have a website. There are several on here though that fit to that common CAV filter head.
Glass Bowl Fuel Filter | eBay

Whether it has a pump or not doesn't matter. If the bowl is gotten separately then it also needs the special thru-bolt that goes with it. If you look at my pic the longer bolt has been cut from a length of studding. Not ideal but it works.




.
Is your CAV new, or NOS? That glass bowl is late 70's vintage and I didn't know they are still being made. I see new ones on Ebay that looks similar with the glass bowl but they don't look like the one I have, which has a piston type priming pump. With the diaphragm priming pumps, replacement diaphragms are not available and they are not built to be replaced easily (crimped metal housing). The piston primer pump has an o-ring which is quick and easy to replace
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  #63  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:13 AM
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Fascinating, and very well done!
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  #64  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I think the 4120R2 is a better buy, it's $240, but has twice the capacity of the 460... at 2micron (I wonder if it's nominal or absolute?)

Parker - 4120R SERIES FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATORS


I found one on EBAY, $214!
I am sure it's nominal. 2 micron is not needed for our old diesels with low pressure injectors. I am sure the Racor is a good filter but too expensive and overkill for the 617's.
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  #65  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Is your CAV new, or NOS? That glass bowl is late 70's vintage and I didn't know they are still being made. I see new ones on Ebay that looks similar with the glass bowl but they don't look like the one I have, which has a piston type priming pump. With the diaphragm priming pumps, replacement diaphragms are not available and they are not built to be replaced easily (crimped metal housing). The piston primer pump has an o-ring which is quick and easy to replace
Mine is NOS and is a 'bitsa' made from different parts bins. However the glass bowl should fit to any filter element as it's stepped mating end is dimensionally the same as the normal ally base and uses the same O ring seal. All you then need it the longer thru bolt.
I've not had my diaphragm out but it's held by a ring of screws and not crimping so should be replaceable.

And $240 is big bucks for a filter. I paid £25GBP for what you see there.
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  #66  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:55 AM
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Update.

Made a die and spacer to press in new bottom balljoints before front suspension rebuild. Boy! were they tight. Froze the joint overnight and heated the lower control arm and it still took a deal of pressure for the joint to get seated.



All suspension parts were sandblasted then primed and painted. Every bush, rubber and pushme-pullyou renewed and all fastenings and fittings zinc plated.





New steel sump didn’t have the flywheel closing plate so this part was cut from spare sump and welded shut at the front. It also acts as gearbox to lower crankcase brace so probably quite important.






With all the ancilliaries now being added and possibly because things are bedding in the engine mountings now are ¼” lower than when first set-up. Made spacers from ¼”ally and added them under the mountings to restore clearance.


Attached Thumbnails
Not "another" diesel 107!!-cplate.jpg   Not "another" diesel 107!!-sump2_zps648ed1d6.jpg   Not "another" diesel 107!!-turbo084.jpg   Not "another" diesel 107!!-turbo064.jpg   Not "another" diesel 107!!-turbo068.jpg  


Last edited by vstech; 01-28-2014 at 06:51 PM.
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  #67  
Old 01-28-2014, 12:08 PM
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I'm glad you're doing this build thread. When I tell people that putting a 606 in a 107 is at least an order of magnitude more difficult than doing the 617, they can now appreciate what it takes.

Masterful...and although I've seen most of this, there are lots of details I wasn't privy to.

While I'd love to have one, I've got neither the skills, time, patience or money to make it happen.

Don't forget to post the original subframe mods for the first try.

Thanks.
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  #68  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:12 AM
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Thanks Mach4. I would add to that mix the support from family and friends (both far and wide)

The first attempt at subframe re-design. Mea Culpa






This is a 1” solid bar + brackets replacing the front crossmember. Possibly now the strongest part of the whole car. Possibly.




Between arrows is approx 2 1/2". The amount removed from the front and top 1/2 leaving the same amount at the rear to maintain shape.





Anyways, having done this I then discovered the UK MOT test prohibits mods within 12” of suspension mounts so fairy obviously it would have to go. In hindsight, probably for the best.



.

Last edited by Druk; 01-29-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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  #69  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:20 AM
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I doubt if a MOT tester would have known that it was modified - but like you say probably for the best
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  #70  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:35 AM
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^ You're right, and I had debated that with myself. However, the way the test is now computerised back to TWMBO, if it had failed that fault would be flagged up on the database for ever until it was rectified. Not worth the risk.

Big Brother is watching.

.
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  #71  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Druk View Post
...
Big Brother is watching.

.
He is indeed but most governmental computerised systems seem to be Microsoft dependent so anything can happen - you might go next year and they'll say it is a Mini Cooper not a Mercedes...

...or "it failed the air brake test Sir"...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #72  
Old 01-29-2014, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
He is indeed but most governmental computerised systems seem to be Microsoft dependent so anything can happen - you might go next year and they'll say it is a Mini Cooper not a Mercedes...

...or "it failed the air brake test Sir"...
more likely it would pop up a porn video as they are attempting to anal-eyes the car...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #73  
Old 01-29-2014, 01:40 PM
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Or just come over to SC. No inspections whatsoever.

Now if the police see something they don't like (severely cracked windshield, lights out, excessive smoke, half the car held on with duct tape) then they will stop you.
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  #74  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:08 AM
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The end is in sight..............

^ Might take you up on that jay bob. How's your weather just now? Wet and windy here.

Update.

Now for the most enjoyable part of the whole thing. For me anyway.

The Driveshaft: or Propshaft as it’s known in the UK.

Since the engine was a good 1” out of alignment with the diff (higher than original) and that situation could not be tolerated by a standard Merc shaft I opted for a one piece unit with Hardy-Spicer UJ’s instead of the rubber Guibos. A local shaft company came to the house and measured up and advised that because of the length between flanges 6bolt heavy duty UJ’s and 3” dia tube would be required. Also, I would have to make some sort of adaptors to convert the three bolt Merc flanges to accept the 6bolt Spicers. Enter knight in shining armour in shape of pal who does CAD work on industrial gearboxes and axles.

Note: front and rear are different sizes…the Getrag box is 100mm PCD and the 126 diff flange is 110mm PCD. The scalloped out shape and extra holes are just to add lightness.




The co-ordinates for these were sent across to my Brother-in-Law who has a machine shop business and they were produced out on a CAD-CAM mill. Note the 2mm x 18mm dowels which engage and bottom out in registers in the flanges and transmit all the drive force rather than the bolts. Just as they do in the Guibo's





My nephew who did most of the machining sent me this clip…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCP62uc_Cmc

Another problem was the speedo drive. On the 280 autobox this is electric. The Getrag has a cable. Solution was to make a pick-up plate with the same number of trigger teeth as the autobox and clamp it between the adaptor and gearbox flange then arrange for the original 280 pick-up to ‘see’ these teeth. The jig I made clamps to the Getrag box in the hole where the cable should go and is adjustable by shimming should the clearance need to be varied. A test done by mounting the rotor in the lathe and moving the pick-up out and in in relation to the teeth found that a distance of between 1mm – 2mm worked best. Any more than that and the pick-up failed to register until increasing revs were applied.



Trial fitting of the front adaptor and pick-up.


When the shaft got delivered the tube had been packed with corrugated paper. This dampens out any harmonics apparently. Amazing the things you learn.

Bolted up in position and finished.




Jumping ahead in time and having now driven the car for a few months all the warnings that came my way about how it would be harsh and vibrate were completely groundless. It’s just a smooth and vibration free as any OEM Merc shaft. There’s no judder on take-up of drive and I’ve waved goodbye forever to the unreliable Guibo’s.




.

Last edited by Druk; 01-30-2014 at 11:27 AM.
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  #75  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:19 AM
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You've been driving the car for a few months now?

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