On the side of the gearbox there are three rods that run to the shifter. Ping off the clips at the gearbox end and try to remove the shifter rods. (Pinging the clips off at the shifter end) Mark which shifter is which.

You've also got the speedometer cable - which usually means removal of the whole (8mm head?) bolt before you can remove the cable. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line - as the fluid comes from the master brake cylinder reservoir you should ideally blank the line to stop all of the fluid draining out.

As you said => flex disc - so collapse propshaft with big spanners in the middle; and third engine mount / transmission mount.

Try and keep the engine and gearbox mated together during the removal process - don't be tempted to split them whilst they are still in the car unless you have a 2 post lift and a transmission jack; the chances of damaging the gearbox with a car on axle stands is too great in my opinion...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

X2!

Exactly what I was going to post.

Dan

Dumb question: If I pull the trans and engine at the same time do I need to collapse the drive shaft?

Second dumb question: I'll be moving the trans and drive line to another car-bolting it up to a 617.952 in a one year newer 300 TD. Will this be easier once the engine and trans are out?

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Well you would think that that would be a possible stage to skip wouldn't you?

Unfortunately in the real world the flex discs are usually really stuck to the output flange on the transmission. If you pull the engine out you are in danger of damaging the centre propshaft bearing support. For removal of the my M102 from my W201 I had to pull the engine + gearbox + front part of the sodding propshaft in one because the flex disc was really really stuck => so the message is you need those big spanners for that reason.

Second reason - when you come to fit the engine and transmission back in the car you need to jiggle the drive line about to make sure it is settled before you tighten everything back into place => rolling the car with weight on wheels backwards and forwards to make sure propshaft + engine mounts + differential + subframe are all "in agreement" with the best position. This is a cure for many a drive line vibration problem.

I had to read that several times! I think the answer is => ALWAYS bolt transmission to engine before fitting both to the car - much safer way of not damaging transmission (at the cost of a greater likelihood of scratching body work on the way in)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You might want to check the bottom plate of your euro IP and make sure its not leaking oil. Both mine are leaking a little and its such a bugger to do with the engine in the car. Also the oil filter housing gasket. When pulling the engine/tranny, undo the four 13mm bolts holding the tranny cross member to the body and pull it with the tranny.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"