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  #1  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:11 PM
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Good day installing new IP in "Spouse" - then I had to go and ruin it ! Broken tab.

The last of my parts arrived yesterday in the mail - today after church I set out to install a new om603 Injection Pump in my wife's 87 300TD. Piled everything together on my workbench, counted parts, then took it all over to where I keep the car.







New IP with the bags full of new lines, crush washers, VTV, check valve, o-ring. Everything.



I prepped everything that I could before I started installing it in the car. I mounted the lines with brand new crush washers - inserted the IP locking tool (allot easier when the pump is in your hands), rolled on the big o-ring.







How it looked before I installed it in "Spouse"



Having just installed one of these 3 weeks ago, this one went in really easily (and fast) - only took about 10 minutes to wiggle and twist and wiggle some more until it was completely in place. I was able to right away insert all three fastening bolts finger tight, then I screwed in the rearmost fastening bolt (forgot that one on my last install, had to install it with the intake plenum and all lines in the way - not fun).







Clean new IP - ready for final tightening of the three bolts and the left handed center bolt (to 45 NM of torque). Looks sooo nice......until.....



So - I'm tightening the main three bolts when my wrench slips off one of them and I hear a 'snap'. I thought nothing of it, figured my wrench smacked against the power steering pulley or something. I installed and torqued the center bolt. Then I gave everything a good looking at (to make sure I didn't miss anything). Well - I did miss something -







This is a cracked support tab on the drivers side of the IP. cracked thru all the way. Everything else is just fine from what I can see.



Question is; Do I need to take this all the way out and have it welded? Or - since the other two are fine, and I have the rear bolt in place and the support of the center bolt too - do you think I'm ok?



I'm done for the day - ;-(

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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)

Last edited by jbrianfoto; 06-01-2014 at 07:25 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: MN
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I think that if it doesn't leak oil, you are ok. I have no experience with a 2 tab installation, so maybe someone else would "know" better than I "think".

It begs the question "why did it snap?". I think that the IP and tab should be flush to the block when installed properly.

Maybe you tightened the rear mount first ?
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

2007 ML320 CDI .. / 2005 E320 CDI .../ 1998 SLK 230 .../ 1991 Daihatsu Rocky
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2014, 11:58 PM
sixto's Avatar
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x2, check that the IP is flush to the block. If not, fix that then see if it leaks.

If the surface between the ribs is parallel to the block mating surface, fabricate a forked tab and spacer to fit over the broken tab and get a longer bolt.

Sixto
MB-less
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2014, 12:12 AM
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Location: MN
Posts: 1,200
It's possible that the timing adjustment assembly was not in it's slot in the IP body. That would have held the IP away from the block just inboard of the tab that snapped off.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

2007 ML320 CDI .. / 2005 E320 CDI .../ 1998 SLK 230 .../ 1991 Daihatsu Rocky
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2014, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
It's possible that the timing adjustment assembly was not in it's slot in the IP body. That would have held the IP away from the block just inboard of the tab that snapped off.
You took the keyboard right out of my hands before I could type that out
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2014, 06:55 PM
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You win a Cupie-Doll !

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
It's possible that the timing adjustment assembly was not in it's slot in the IP body. That would have held the IP away from the block just inboard of the tab that snapped off.
Got the IP out today, finally, and gave it a good looking over. It appears that I had the adjustment screw one slot too high, which causes the outer lip of the adjustment screw to ride against the engine block. When I tightened the bolt on that side, the screw lip acted as a fulcrum and SNAP went the tab. I'm taking it to someone who I trust as a welder. Will post photos of the repair when it's all done.

I'm such a dope.
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:18 PM
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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The Good, Bad and the Ugly......

Some photos;

GOOD - the adjustment collar is seated INSIDE of the scallop designed to completely house it.



BAD - Notice collar is ABOVE the scallop - causes the collar to stick out too far and break the corner tab ;-(



Shots of the breakage -





I just hope cast aluminium can be repaired. I would imagine that some extra material will need to be added over the shoulder area, and I'll need to procure a longer Grade 8 bolt to clear everything.
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
You took the keyboard right out of my hands before I could type that out

You Both were right, gonna gave to share the Cupie doll.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2014, 09:18 PM
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Location: los angeles
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Ive got a good injection pump if you need it, dont know whats it worth, i did have it on a car last year and ran good
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:08 PM
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Why are all the pics B&W and out of focus? Makes it difficult to see the details.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #11  
Old 07-21-2014, 07:24 AM
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Thank you man - but....

Quote:
Originally Posted by nulu View Post
Ive got a good injection pump if you need it, don't know whats it worth, i did have it on a car last year and ran good
Hey that was cool of you, but this one is newly rebuilt. So I'm just gonna get the tab beefed up and welded. I think it'll be fine, especially now that I know how I screwed up.
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2014, 08:01 AM
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Cool On the subject of photography....

Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Why are all the pics B&W and out of focus? Makes it difficult to see the details.
Because I'm a rotten photographer.

Seriously though - what color are you looking to see? The pump is silver and grey, the bolt is black from diesel oil and grease. The only color to see would be the Bosch tag on the side.

It's grainy and out of focus because;
  • I shot it hand held, on a cell phone, under dim mercury vapor illumination, in my basement.
  • I didn't like the high contrast that the cruddy flash on camera produces.
  • I didn't feel like dragging out my Speedotron strobes and setting up a table-top product shot.

If there is a detail that you can't make out, let me know and I'll put up a shop light and take some better photos. There is actually a view that I was thinking of shooting that shows, from above, how much the bolt collar sticks out - that might also be helpful.

I am also going to shoot the repair job. That'll be interesting.
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Why are all the pics B&W and out of focus? Makes it difficult to see the details.
In addition to the reasons just posted by the OP, it appears he uses some imaging software to intentionally blur the edges of the photos. Asking why is reasonable, but the answer is simply because he prefers it this way.
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:55 AM
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Hipstamatic is the APP name...

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Originally Posted by Shortsguy1 View Post
In addition to the reasons just posted by the OP, it appears he uses some imaging software to intentionally blur the edges of the photos. Asking why is reasonable, but the answer is simply because he prefers it this way.
I use an app for my iPhone called Hipstamatic. It's allot of fun for me. If you look thru all of my posts (if you are REALLY bored) - you'll see that 99% of my images are like this. Some like it, some do not.
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1987 300TD named Klause
1987 300TD named Spouse
1987 300D named Seabiscuit
1980 300TD names Chloie (now sadly gone)
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrianfoto View Post
I use an app for my iPhone called Hipstamatic. It's allot of fun for me. If you look thru all of my posts (if you are REALLY bored) - you'll see that 99% of my images are like this. Some like it, some do not.
So you prefer B&W and blurry photos? Do you sprinkle flour and salt in your eyes to make it blurry in real life too?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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