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  #1  
Old 11-17-2014, 09:40 PM
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Since the patch is of a very temporary nature, fiberglass might work easier since the hole is so big. Grind the perimeter and start dipping/laying strips. Multiple layers. It would need to be clean and rough along the edges.
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  #2  
Old 11-18-2014, 03:01 PM
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You may already know this, but just in case you don't: you can use the oil pan from a 3.0 or a 3.5 om603 on that motor. The pans themselves are different- the 3.5 does not have the side access that the 3.0 does, but they will both bolt up to the motor just fine. I am currently running a 3.5 pan on my 3.0 shortblock.
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2014, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upshift View Post
You may already know this, but just in case you don't: you can use the oil pan from a 3.0 or a 3.5 om603 on that motor. The pans themselves are different- the 3.5 does not have the side access that the 3.0 does, but they will both bolt up to the motor just fine. I am currently running a 3.5 pan on my 3.0 shortblock.
That is good to know, as I am sure the 3.0 pan will be easier to find than the 3.5. If this turns out to be a viable engine, I will be looking for a pan, be it 3.0 or 3.5.......Rich
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
That is good to know, as I am sure the 3.0 pan will be easier to find than the 3.5. If this turns out to be a viable engine, I will be looking for a pan, be it 3.0 or 3.5.......Rich
If you need one PM me.. I know a guy who has a couple and he might part with one.
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by capflya View Post
If you need one PM me.. I know a guy who has a couple and he might part with one.
3.5 or 3.0?
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:07 PM
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Sorry to say I'm very concerned about the health of that motor... the black driver's side tail light is a telltale of lots of exhaust smoke, possibly from oil burning
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2014, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Sorry to say I'm very concerned about the health of that motor... the black driver's side tail light is a telltale of lots of exhaust smoke, possibly from oil burning
I am concerned as well, but we won't know anything until the hole is patched and it holds oil.
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2014, 06:36 AM
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Its worth a try.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2014, 10:17 AM
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Absolutely
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2014, 04:13 PM
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Man that pan is shattered! It'll be a long shot if the motor is unharmed.

Maybe you can put a general purpose plastic tub up around the existing pan and fill it with oil so it is the (temporary) sump. then you can start the motor etc. The oil pickup does not know what sort of pan it is drawing from. A new pan will likely be a triple biotch to get onto that motor. This way you can at least check op at idle and such.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #11  
Old 11-18-2014, 05:21 PM
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I might clean the area well with laquer thinner. Rough the surface as well a little to increase bonding. Tack place pieces of tin using mar glass or commonly known in the trade as short hair fiberglass filler. It has enough body to be easily workable overhead. When all are in place just seal all the patches edges with a layer of the mar glass. That's after they are all tacked on with the mar glass.

This will allow you a test. The important thing is to use the laquer thinner as it leaves no trace of oil behind when the white wiping cloth shows no residue.

I cannot think of any other solvent to cut that oil off as well as it will. Plus it dries fast on the surface. The mar glass having the consistency of normal body filler that is of no use to you. Makes it far easier and cheaper than trying to work with a resin in an overhead position. If you use almost anything other than the laquer thinner the bond will be compromised.
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
I might clean the area well with laquer thinner. Rough the surface as well a little to increase bonding. Tack place pieces of tin using mar glass or commonly known in the trade as short hair fiberglass filler. It has enough body to be easily workable overhead. When all are in place just seal all the patches edges with a layer of the mar glass. That's after they are all tacked on with the mar glass.

This will allow you a test. The important thing is to use the laquer thinner as it leaves no trace of oil behind when the white wiping cloth shows no residue.

I cannot think of any other solvent to cut that oil off as well as it will. Plus it dries fast on the surface. The mar glass having the consistency of normal body filler that is of no use to you. Makes it far easier and cheaper than trying to work with a resin in an overhead position. If you use almost anything other than the laquer thinner the bond will be compromised.
I plan on roughing up the surface, and already used brake cleaner to clean the pan. Yes lacquer thinner will probably be the best thing to use after sanding, and just before applying the sealing compound (whatever I choose/can find to use).....Rich
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2014, 01:15 AM
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I think he has both.. He pulled the pan from a Euro 603NA that popped up in a yard here in CA and it's the same pan as the 3.5 used, No side access.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2014, 07:00 PM
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You might be able to talk to the owner driving the vehicle when the pan hit something. He may be friendly enough to tell you the following sequence of events.

For example was the car shut down or driven. If driven until it tightened up or overheated seriously. What he states may or may not be important.

With no oil but with coolant in the system one may be surprised how long they can run sometimes. Usually tightening up and damage is worse after coolant is expelled. I would think the back bumper just might be consistant with the coolant having been blown out and temperatures perhaps reaching loss of ring temper perhaps. On the other hand it started up pretty easy for you.
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  #15  
Old 11-22-2014, 05:39 PM
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You have no idea how thankful I am!

With the Thanksgiving holiday happening soon, I really have a lot to be thankful for. Of course there is the normal things like health, a good job, a happy family, etc, but right now I am thankful for the blessing of this 350SD that has no obvious internal damage to the engine!
I got the pan patched today with steel wool, epoxy and foil tape:



After the patch job and filling it with new oil, it started right up as if it was just running five minutes ago, and was quiet as a mouse! Woo-hoo! I will in fact need a new pan, as it is dripping just a little. I am going to leave it like this until I get a chance to take it to a coin-op car wash and clean the engine and bay. Once I have a replacement pan in hand, I will tackle the job of replacing it. I already have a line on one from a member here. I will get some photos this weekend of the rest of the car. Again, I am thankful to God for His love and care for me, but especially right now for providing this awesome car!
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