1979 Mercedes 300TD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Adriel · #1 11-23-2014, 05:41 PM

Yesterday picked up a 1979 Mercedes 300TD for what I think was basically stealing. I did manage to push it up into the drive to be neighborly, but got stuck in the sand...

Since I took Sabbath already, decided I just put a battery in and see about driving it into the back. Nope, decided to put up a good fight! Hood got stuck, but a lot of patience paid off and got it undone with only a support bar broken!

Plopped the 1985's battery in, and get the glow light glowing for a while, but turning the key does nothing. I don't hear any clicks. Is '79 different in starting? I tried twisting the knob left of the column, but did nothing.

I have absolutely no history, except one cylinder has piston slap. Plan for now is park it out back until I have the Squareback on the road. Already has rust, and most likely will be parted, so feel no hurry exept get it out of neighborhood's view.

Thank y'all in advance for the help!

Adriel · #2 11-23-2014, 06:16 PM

Tried shorting the starter and nothing. I was amazed that there is a huge inlet pipe in the way of getting to the starter!

toomany MBZ · #3 11-25-2014, 08:27 AM

By shorting the starter, do you mean jumping terminals on the junction box in front of the battery?

If so, it would seem to be a connection issue.

Adriel · #4 11-25-2014, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

By shorting the starter, do you mean jumping terminals on the junction box in front of the battery?

If so, it would seem to be a connection issue.

Not sure why I didn't get notification...

Thank you so very much for the reply!

Didn't know about that! Can you please explain?

I did it the aircooled V.W. method of using a screw driver on the starter lugs.

I saw uberwasser's thread, and bet the cable isn't helping, as several strands broken and badly corroded. Not sure I really want to spend money when not sure it's worth it. Do you think y'all could give feedback?

This morning I used a tow strap and dragged the 1979 back on the gravel pad in the back yard. Put up a fight as the wheels kept turning. Second time just locked the steering wheel. Became like threading a rope through the eye of a needle and wasn't helped by traction being tricky. Only damage was driver's side of the 1979 getting colored green from the plants and loss of front trim, which I can't seem to find. But, amazed nothing more, considering the tight fit and a couple times spit rocks.

Next up is getting the windows up. Switches in front don't work and both rear switches busted. Any way to short the rear wires using 9 volt batteries and see if the window regulator will come alive?

uberwasser · #5 11-25-2014, 06:22 PM

You can disassemble the back of the rear window switches, and pull out the two wires that lead to the motor. On my car, they were green and black.

Then just take a 12v battery of some kind and connect positive to one of the wires, negative to the other (doesn't matter which). If the window moves up, great. If it moves down, swap the connections (reversing polarity is how the window motor goes different directions).

toomany MBZ · #6 11-25-2014, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Not sure why I didn't get notification...

Thank you so very much for the reply!

Didn't know about that! Can you please explain?

I did it the aircooled V.W. method of using a screw driver on the starter lugs.

May be the same thing, see attachment.

Connect (short?) those two leads, the starter should engage.

Yeah, if you can supply 12v unknown amps, to the window motors, perhaps that'll work.

Adriel · #7 11-25-2014, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwasser

You can disassemble the back of the rear window switches, and pull out the two wires that lead to the motor. On my car, they were green and black.

Then just take a 12v battery of some kind and connect positive to one of the wires, negative to the other (doesn't matter which). If the window moves up, great. If it moves down, swap the connections (reversing polarity is how the window motor goes different directions).

Thank you so very much for the reply!

So just use small pliers to pull out what is left? The trim and rockers are busted off. Guess I should have been more clear... Brain hasn't been fully functioning for a long time...

Do they make a 12 volt battery other than automotive? I haven't seen it. The only 12 volt auto battery is in the 1985 and was a real pain to swap for no results. If I had gotten something, would consider getting a battery for it, but with no cranking, figure will have to be parted out.

cooljjay · #8 11-30-2014, 01:45 AM

Do you have any photos of this beast? You know I love non turbos...

uberwasser · #9 11-30-2014, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Thank you so very much for the reply!

So just use small pliers to pull out what is left? The trim and rockers are busted off. Guess I should have been more clear... Brain hasn't been fully functioning for a long time...

Do they make a 12 volt battery other than automotive? I haven't seen it. The only 12 volt auto battery is in the 1985 and was a real pain to swap for no results. If I had gotten something, would consider getting a battery for it, but with no cranking, figure will have to be parted out.

Sure, you can get 12V Lithium-Ion batteries that are used for cameras, RC planes, etc. Or, you can use a 12v motorcycle batter. Or a 12v battery jump pack. All of the above would be much more portable than a car battery.

Adriel · #10 11-30-2014, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Do you have any photos of this beast? You know I love non turbos...

Not currently, but you could try this:
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4698236729.html
Did try saving the images on my cell, but didn't work. I think with your handywork and my past experiences, could fix the front seats. But the first thing on the list is at leas find an engine.

More later, got to go.

ROLLGUY · #11 12-01-2014, 01:13 AM

There is no terminal block on the wheelhouse for the starter on a '79. The only way I know of to "hotwire" a '79 is to use a small screwdriver and connect the start wire terminal withe the battery cable terminal without touching it to ground. It has to be done by feel, as it is very hard to see down there. If you plan to remove the starter, it is not easy the first time (it gets easier once you figure out the way it fits through the obstacles). It will only fit through the space between the frame and steering components with the steering all the way (left I think?).....Rich

Diesel911 · #12 12-01-2014, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

By shorting the starter, do you mean jumping terminals on the junction box in front of the battery?

If so, it would seem to be a connection issue.

I believe the Wire Junction Block in front of the Battery is only on the Turbo W123s. I say that because I am not sure His 1979 TD has a Turbo.

Diesel911 · #13 12-01-2014, 01:40 PM

If nothing at all happend when you tried to jump the Starter then either the Starter is shot or your Ground is bad.

I would only do this just to see if the Starter has any life in it as Jumper Cables I think are too thin and the Clips do not make enough contact to take the Amperage for long. Clip one Jumper Cable onto the Negative Terminal of the Battery and find some place on the Engine to clip the other end of it.
If you get any life out of the Starter like that then you have a Ground issue.

Jump the Starter and see if you get any thing. If nothing then also ckeck to see if the Positive Cable is conducting to the Starter.

This would not prevent the Starter from working if you jump it but if it has an automatic Transmission the a no goood Neutral Safety Switch or worn shifter Bushings can will cause an open circuit.

toomany MBZ · #14 12-01-2014, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I believe the Wire Junction Block in front of the Battery is only on the Turbo W123s. I say that because I am not sure His 1979 TD has a Turbo.

Thanks for he clarification.

Adriel · #15 12-06-2014, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I believe the Wire Junction Block in front of the Battery is only on the Turbo W123s. I say that because I am not sure His 1979 TD has a Turbo.

Thank you so very much for the help!

I just checked, yep, no junction box.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If nothing at all happend when you tried to jump the Starter then either the Starter is shot or your Ground is bad.

I would only do this just to see if the Starter has any life in it as Jumper Cables I think are too thin and the Clips do not make enough contact to take the Amperage for long. Clip one Jumper Cable onto the Negative Terminal of the Battery and find some place on the Engine to clip the other end of it.
If you get any life out of the Starter like that then you have a Ground issue.

Jump the Starter and see if you get any thing. If nothing then also ckeck to see if the Positive Cable is conducting to the Starter.

This would not prevent the Starter from working if you jump it but if it has an automatic Transmission the a no goood Neutral Safety Switch or worn shifter Bushings can will cause an open circuit.

Can this be done without a battery? A real pain to remove the '85's and hook into the '79's, partly due to the fact the former is in tight quarters and then the battery have to be walked out through the house into the garden.

Where do I clip onto the engine?

Not sure I will get time today to do anything, as Monday have a huge studio project due, living room needs vacuuming, and got to get groceries this morning as literally nothing to eat here (well, there is a few snacks).

We had almost an inch of rain, so do know the carpets are most likely drenched. Maybe I should do something to save what's left of the floor pans...