Locked out - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Guest987 · #1 11-25-2014, 09:59 AM

I left this morning on a local drive. I locked the car up upon exiting the vehicle. I came out and hour later, and the key would'nt open the driver's side door. I tried 2 or three times reinserting the key, and trying to turn the key to no avail. I then decided to try and open the passenger side door for access. The key turned the lock and the door opened. I then reached across to pull up the plunger on the driver's side door. I drove the car home, and then tried to lock the driver's side door, and the key would not turn either way in the lock. I then went over to the passenger side door and tried to lock the door. Again, it was like the driver's door the key refused to turn in either direction. Since, the purchase of the car the key would lock the driver's side door and unlock it, but the key would not lock the passenger side door. It would only turn to the left if the car was locked freely like to lock the car door, but not unlock it. I am lost at this point on what might be going on? Would appreciate any thoughts or help on this. Thanks!

leathermang · #2 11-25-2014, 10:26 AM

First try opening it up and lubing with crc white lithium grease in spray can with red tube for accuracy...
then re check operation...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqoy7gGw9rI

vstech · #3 11-25-2014, 11:02 AM

I'm not sure where you live, but the common reason for this is key tumbler wear, or accumulated powder and grease from years of lubing the tumbler, gelling and generally being stiff in the cold.

I'd spray LIBERAL amounts of WD40 into the lock, until it comes out clear, then use LIBERAL amounts of brake spray cleaner... beware... the brake spray can strip the paint from your door, so protect it with tape, and plastic beforehand.
after the brake spray gets the tumbler turning, and the spray has ALL DRIED up... a TINY spritz of graphite powder should keep it lubed.

Guest987 · #4 11-25-2014, 11:11 AM

Well, I decided to go out to the garage and try the locks again after the car set approximately 1 1/2 hours. It now works the same as it always has. I can lock and unlock the car from the driver's side door, but the passenger side door lock will not lock the door. It will only turn to the left, but not turn to the right to unlock. This has been the way the system has always worked from the time I purchased it. I am puzzled with how this has happened today...could it be gremlins at work?? However, after owning Mercedes' I am convinced, that you need to be prepared for anything can happen!!

leathermang · #5 11-25-2014, 11:44 AM

I felt sorry for you.... so I fixed it telepathically .... but you need to follow up to keep it from happening again...

Diesel911 · #6 11-25-2014, 12:10 PM

X2 on the WD-40. If you can get the Little Tube inside to spary it will flush out crud.

leathermang · #7 11-25-2014, 12:17 PM

Minus X3
WD 40 is not really a good cleaning agent... as it leaves a film...
WD 40 is not a lubricant..... if you check the effect it has on torque you will find it increases it.... as compared to an actual lubricant like oil.
Brake cleaner and electrical circuit board cleaners do not leave a film...
PB Blaster I think is a better cleaner and lube combo ....
WD 40 is designed as a Water Displacer .... if you need to dry something like the mechanisms we are discussing ... it is ideal...

ah-kay · #8 11-25-2014, 12:18 PM

I would give you an explanation. Some can help you to fix it telepathically but I can't. I don't believe it those crap, I am an engineer.

The door lock works on vacuum principle. If it works after 1 1/2 hour then it means the vacuum has leaked down and it is not holding the key pods. I suspect the vacuum switch inside the driver door is not aligned property, i.e. It is not moved completely to one side or another. You can lock/unlock all doors on the driver door but not on passenger side. There will be resistance in the passenger side if you try to unlock it. It is vacuum at work. I doubt there is anything wrong with the tumbler.

-3 on wd40

vstech · #9 11-25-2014, 12:25 PM

Hmm, I've always used WD for water dispersal, and for gentle cleaning. yes, there will be a film, but it'll rinse right out, after you spray in the brake spray.

CERTAINLY DO NOT LEAVE JUST WD40 in there even if it works with the key after the WD is used... it will leave a film that will attract highly damaging dirt!!!

sure, PB blaster will work better, especially if you have rust or any corrosion in there, but I'd try WD first, as it is cheap, and gentle, and pleasant smelling.

PB is NOT any of those things!

I'm a firm believer in telepathic repairs... stuff NEVER is broken when customers bring it to me to work on... it always seems to work fine when I get to it.

leathermang · #10 11-25-2014, 01:23 PM

WD 40 seems like a lubricate because people are comparing it to the gummed up mechanism feel before they sprayed it...
What is wrong with how PB Blaster smells ? You will smell like it the rest of the day...I think PB Blaster is a penetrating lube.... but many time a white lithium grease is more appropriate as it lasts longer....and you may can get some which is water resistant... I use CRC in a spray can...

leathermang · #11 11-25-2014, 01:25 PM

I think that graphite powder has been disavowed by most locksmiths ... on long lasting things like cars... since it is clearly something with can gum up....and cause wear....

Guest987 · #12 11-25-2014, 01:55 PM

I was doing some scanning awhile back, because I was contemplating replacing the boots that protect the wiring going through the cabin to the doors. I was, also, wanting to check the reason the door would not lock on the passengers door. Well, looking in the cars hand book, Mercedes actually endorses using the dry graphite for lubing the door locks etc. Just give it a puff! In order to back up the locking system I was considering installing a remote door opening system. I contacted Ah-Kay a few monts ago about the ones he sells, but he tells me that's not an option using them on W123 he sells. If you could pick your time they were going to seize, it would not be so inconvenient!

leathermang · #13 11-25-2014, 04:12 PM

[QUOTE=Rebe;3412365]...... Well, looking in the cars hand book, Mercedes actually endorses using the dry graphite for lubing the door locks etc....../QUOTE]

And that ' hand book ' was printed in what year ?
When the lock has to be replaced.... or something else goes wrong... Mercedes is in line to make money...
I am not...
I have given fair warning and each can do whatever they want to to their cars..

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070704202615AAo1ky9

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Best Answer

donmohan2 answered 8 years ago

Too much graphite will cause one or more pins to over-lift. It's okay to flush it out with WD-40. It will make a black, goopy mess, but once you wash that graphite out, your lock will open.

Graphite is obsolete, and it is what causes locksmiths to be crabby, surly people. We debate which spray solvent is best, but most agree that anything is better than graphite.

The tolerances in residential locks are sloppy enough that WD-40 can't gum it up.

Flush that lock with WD-40 and you will be fine.
Source:
I'm a retired locksmith

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linlyons answered 8 years ago
DON'T USE WD-40.
it's not good for this purpose.
what happens is that it attracts and holds dust and dirt.
and dries gummy.
then your lock really won't work.
graphite really was the right thing to use.

"now it doesn't work" lacks a bit of detail on what might be wrong.

"it goes in but won't turn" might mean it's a really old lock, and the key and pins are worn so that they no longer line up.
that would be a problem, you just cannot lubricate them to make them longer.
however, if that is the case, sometimes you can jiggle the key, and the pins catch.
and if that's true, it'll never get any better.

when you put the key in the lock, is the 'pointy' part up or down?
it should be up.
that's where the pins are, and you want them to be up.
if they're down, then dirt falls into them and messes the lock up.

good luck.

btw, having worked with locks 40 years ago, i really don't like the selection that's available today, particularly at hardware stores. the old Schlage A locks were so much better than what's available today. and Arrow locks were perfect copies -- so much so that you could interchange parts. you might go to a locksmith. you'll pay more, but you might get a better lock. and he could make sure all your locks used the same key, if you paid him to do that.
Source(s):
worked in the research dept 4 years at Schlage Lock.
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x answered 8 years ago
You probably packed in the dirt, and with the graphite, made it pack in tight so that it wont budge.

Get some PB BLASTER or WD-40 with the straw and shove it in the key slot and shoot the the lock with the lubricant so that the "grey goop" from the graphite finally comes out and clean. Your lock should work fine then!

What you did, is the dirt from your fingers got all over the lock insides and the crud packed in there, so, after the WD-40 I would get the PB Blaster and blow in the lock to rid the mechanism of the dirt from your fingers... Turn the key a few times in it and it should work fine...(Though, it will probably work fine with the WD-40, "that" is not a cleaner and the Blaster "should" clean out the grease and crud).

I wish you well...

Jesse

ah-kay · #14 11-25-2014, 02:08 PM

Keyless remote can be done on w123. I did it on the 83 300D. You need an actuator and mount it inside the driver door. It is more work and others had done it in this forum. If I open up the door panel then I can take a picture and document the installation.

I sell the w124 kit for $50 which is very reasonable but members here requested an installation manual and never reply back. There is no courtesy at all.

Simpler=Better · #15 11-25-2014, 04:16 PM

I've had good luck with sewing machine oil.