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  #16  
Old 12-08-2014, 05:44 PM
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I had a 98 E300 that came in with a bad spindle (from worn out wheel bearing) and picked one up off ebay pretty cheap compared to new.
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  #17  
Old 12-08-2014, 08:10 PM
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I will say that I pulled the passenger side for good measure.

I am a believer in symmetrical maintenance, even down to light bulbs (if the LH headlight blows, I change the RH on principle).

The grease on the RH outer bearing had already gotten some discoloration so this one was on borrowed time too. Spindle still looks pristine so just a basic bearing replacement required on the right.
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2014, 08:16 PM
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It's beneficial to check them after a drive with a laser temp gauge. Should heat up 20 degrees F hotter without giving any noise.

I've had seals sitting on the shelf awhile. I keep taking her out like a little kid. This is motivating me to pull everything apart. Thanks.
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  #19  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:21 PM
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Front bearing failed at 195k

My front passenger bearing started making noise at 195k and was changed out along with other side. It started while doing switchbacks in Custer state Park, SD this fall.
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  #20  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:44 PM
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I also lost the right front wheel bearing on my 2001 E320. The car had less than 50,000 miles at the time. It was the outer bearing and the inner race was "welded" to the spindle. I cut a slot in the race parallel to the spindle but did not cut into the spindle. Then used a large chisel to widen the cut and expand the race until it popped off. The extra metal left on the spindle was very rough and made several high spots. I filed the high spots to make the spindle almost round. Then I put bluing on the spindle and slide the new bearing on as far as it would go easily and then removed to see where the bearing was contacting the spindle and removing the bluing. I filed the high spots where the bluing was missing and then repeated the procedure until the spindle looked like new and the bearing fit properly. The car now has 175,000 miles and no further problem. The bearing failed at 70 MPH and the sound was similar to what you would hear if you ran over a 2 x 4 board. No advanced warning. One of the balls was shattered. The other balls were "chewed" and melted.
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  #21  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:52 PM
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I replaced the bearings on my 85 300D a few years ago. But when doing brakes this year, I of course had to disturb the bearings. I reset them with dial gauge as before.

I haven't paid much attention, but today I noticed that the hub area of the Bundt rims are dirty - as though perhaps some grease may have been leaking out. Is that something others see on the W123?

BTW - I also have W210 E20 - 212k km. Maybe no need to worry about bearings yet.
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  #22  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:54 PM
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I have seen that before on W123's. Not mine, but others. Not sure if it indicates anything...one that comes to mind had the front bearings done just two years ago.
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  #23  
Old 12-09-2014, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I replaced the bearings on my 85 300D a few years ago. But when doing brakes this year, I of course had to disturb the bearings. I reset them with dial gauge as before.

I haven't paid much attention, but today I noticed that the hub area of the Bundt rims are dirty - as though perhaps some grease may have been leaking out. Is that something others see on the W123?

BTW - I also have W210 E20 - 212k km. Maybe no need to worry about bearings yet.
Perhaps more than necessary grease was used in the previous packing/repacking.
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  #24  
Old 12-09-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
I will say that I pulled the passenger side for good measure.

I am a believer in symmetrical maintenance, even down to light bulbs (if the LH headlight blows, I change the RH on principle).

The grease on the RH outer bearing had already gotten some discoloration so this one was on borrowed time too. Spindle still looks pristine so just a basic bearing replacement required on the right.
I agree with symmetrical maintenance. The dealer said that my right wheel bearing looked like new and he just repacked it.

Of note: They keep bearings in stock at this small dealership because they regularly replace them. Spindles and hubs etc are over-nighted.
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2014, 12:41 PM
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Is this the DIY for a 99 e300. I asked PP and they just directed me to the model range at the top of the article. TIA
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  #26  
Old 12-10-2014, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetops View Post
Is this the DIY for a 99 e300. I asked PP and they just directed me to the model range at the top of the article. TIA
Yes, that's the same as the 99.

I have some complaints on the DIY though.

first, the Bearings should not just have grease on the outside! Grease needs to be forced between each bearing on the inside between the cage and the inner race. grease packer, or hand packing methods should be followed.

second, I'd NEVER use a drift to INSTALL a race... only use aluminum Race installation tool kits... they are only about 25.00 at any auto parts store, and you can return the kit to them if they offer rentals for Free!

Jay brought me his hubs today, and I drove out the races for him, and packed one set of bearings (the dealer forgot to give him the other set) and loaned him the tools to change the springs, and races on the other side!
I'm sure he'll take pics and update his thread when he is working on everything.

HINT HINT!!!
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2014, 09:07 PM
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On many cars the races are taken out by using a punch at a notch on the ridge which locates the race. Often they are opposite each other. Back and forth to ease it out...

But TO INSTALL the new one..... like Vstech said... NO punch or drift...
you take the OLD RACE.... and grind around the outside ... enough that it is small enough that it is slightly loose in the space it was just driven out of...
You then use that placed against the new race to install the new one straight into the hub. Hold it on the sides... tap gently back and forth between your fingers... it will be obvious when it bottoms out...
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  #28  
Old 12-11-2014, 09:56 PM
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Update

I removed the spring yesterday and started working on the spindle.

Had to run out and pick up a ball joint separator this morning.

Drove in the 2 bearing races using the driver set, nice and easy. Both races set with the "narrower" (thicker, smaller diameter) end facing inward. The bearing driver kit makes this so simple and you don't have to worry about destroying the race.

Then I greased the other set of bearings and packed them back in the bag for installation.

So this afternoon I got the spindle changed out. Not too much trouble there.

I then replaced the sway bar links and rubber bushings - that is much more difficult than on a 124. They were squeaking and the rubber was shot. Getting the links to fit over the ends of the bars is difficult.

Tomorrow I need to reinstall the spring, install the hubs, set the bearing play, put the brakes back together, and get this car back on the road!

I will get some pictures tomorrow.
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2008 E320 Bluetec (my DD)
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son's college DD)
1998 E300DT (Younger son's college DD)
1987 300TD sold to vstech
----------
gone but living on
1983 240D (body to greazzer, engine to t walgamuth)
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  #29  
Old 12-15-2014, 06:43 PM
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May help someone down the road in hearing a bad bearing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkphS4Xmzsc

W210: Bad Wheel Bearing | Artisan
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  #30  
Old 12-15-2014, 07:09 PM
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Not only do they sound bad there will be a vibration you can feel through your fingertips when you rotate the hub.

My wheel bearing failed without warning, no noise and no vibration upon rotation. Just catastrophic failure at highway speed farrrrrrrrrrr far from home
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