Rebuild your OM601 OM602 OM603 hydraulic lifters - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mauidieselpetr · #1 04-24-2015, 12:48 PM

how did you take these lifters apart ? Same way like in VW Video ?

Stretch · #2 04-24-2015, 02:06 PM

Always interesting to see things in bits and pieces

@tjts1 Have you checked the dimensions as described in chapter 05-211?

(http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/60005.pdf - also describes dismantling process for those who want to know)

I'm about to see if I can do the same on my M102 lifters

panZZer · #3 05-15-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Always interesting to see things in bits and pieces

@tjts1 Have you checked the dimensions as described in chapter 05-211?

(http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/60005.pdf - also describes dismantling process for those who want to know)

I'm about to see if I can do the same on my M102 lifters

Hey tristen,, have you ever put any of that stuff back together ror-are you obsessive compulsive hoarding all the random bits in old tv dinner trays around the pad

be careful you don't get any vaccum pump spring thingees reinstalled in a 722 by mistake!

compu_85 · #4 04-24-2015, 02:24 PM

Also, FWIW, here is what the VW Service Manual has to say about checking these beasties:

Quote:

Cam followers should only be checked when the engine is fully warm. Run the engine, preferably drive the car, for 20 to 30 minutes. Shut the engine off and proceed immediately while the engine is still warm.

To check the hydraulic cam followers, remove the cylinder head cover as described in 4.1 Cylinder Head Cover and Gasket. Turn the engine by hand until both the camshaft lobes of one cylinder are pointing approximately up. Using a non-metal object such as wood or plastic, lightly apply pressure to the top of the cam follower, as shown in Fig. 4-16.

If the follower can be pushed down more than 0.1 mm (.004 in.) with hand pressure, it is faulty and should be replaced. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. Replace a faulty cam follower by removing the camshaft, as described in 4.5 Removing and Installing Camshaft and pulling the follower from the cylinder head. Hydraulic cam followers are non-adjustable and non-repairable, and are replaced only as complete assemblies.

tjts1 · #5 04-24-2015, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

Also, FWIW, here is what the VW Service Manual has to say about checking these beasties:

Interesting, similarly demonstrated here on the OM603.
https://youtu.be/SOqAdvkJPJY

I started on this path after replacing the very noisy lifters in my #14 head with the used set out of my spare #17 head. This cured the lifter tick except for 1 which only ticks when I haven't been driving on the freeway. If I do 10 minutes on the freeway it quiets down completely for the rest of the trip. So now I'm practicing dissasembly and cleaning on my old #14 lifters before I pull the #17 lifters and clean them. The stuff coming out of the #14 lifters is truly vile and a good bit of varnish on the inside as well. After I'm done with my dashboard swap I'll move on to lifters and delivery valve seals.

treetops · #6 05-06-2015, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjts1

Interesting, similarly demonstrated here on the OM603.
https://youtu.be/SOqAdvkJPJY

I started on this path after replacing the very noisy lifters in my #14 head with the used set out of my spare #17 head. This cured the lifter tick except for 1 which only ticks when I haven't been driving on the freeway. If I do 10 minutes on the freeway it quiets down completely for the rest of the trip. So now I'm practicing dissasembly and cleaning on my old #14 lifters before I pull the #17 lifters and clean them. The stuff coming out of the #14 lifters is truly vile and a good bit of varnish on the inside as well. After I'm done with my dashboard swap I'll move on to lifters and delivery valve seals.

Well now, the 300TD acts the same. It is noisy around town, but get her on the highway and she quiets down to the way she used to before I changed/overfilled the oil a month ago now.

Like you, I also have a #17 head in the garage so I will take a look at those lifters and see if they can be revived.

Also will look in the INA info too...thats not a bad price.

mytmousemalibu · #7 04-24-2015, 05:26 PM

On the OM603-606 etc, the lifters are pretty quick and easy to access. I have tried soaking lifters in a variety of solvents with BMW lifters which are almost identical to Mercedes but are not disassemblable. They are a pressed constriction and the soaking method did nothing. Now you can take some apart and clean and inspect them and get some more life out of them but they are a mechanical component subject to a lot of motion and they will and do wear. Springs weaken, ball seats wear, and surface & bore wear and scuffing. Something to keep in mind. That said, if they visually look good, I think its worth a try. Worst case, you end up replacing them anyways. Chain tensioners work on the same hydraulic principal but I would less advocate trying to stretch every last mile out of one because if it fails, your engine could end up trashed. A lifter isn't likely to injure anything else. As far as lifters pumping up, majority of the time I would call it unwarrented but in a high perf. application where you are running much higher oil presssure & rpm than originally designed, I can see them holding too much oil and holding a valve loose on its seat. There is a reason for solid lifter valvetrains in high perf. apps. They are a hydraulic element and subject to hydraulic principals. They do have a set stop internally but in order to have zero lash, they must operate off the internal stop so there is some tolerance that can be taken up. Can it overcome a given spring pressure? Dunno, I think that is an engine to engine basis.

tjts1 · #8 05-06-2015, 12:10 PM

Just before I was about to pull the cam and try to rebuild the lifters in the car I found new INA lifters for $10 a pop shipped to my door. I still think the rebuild is viable but my time is worth more than the $120 I would have saved. Oh well.

I overhauled a bunch of things on the car in the last few weeks like delivery valve seals, Monark nozzles, water pump, a few oil leaks, exhaust leak, suspension, steering etc the list goes on and on. I think the lifters are going to be my last car related project for a long while.

winmutt · #9 05-06-2015, 02:32 PM

URL

tjts1 · #10 05-06-2015, 04:30 PM

The mods won't let me. Google shopping search "INA 6010500825" and scroll down. Don't forget the coupon code.

mytmousemalibu · #11 05-06-2015, 10:22 PM

The INA's are what I put into my 603 and was very happy with them. I think the whole job cost me about $200, lifters, valve cover gasket, parts cleaner, etc, and a little bit of my time. Get yourself a tube of Lubriplate white assembly grease for this job, its Not lithium grease in a tub, this is a squeeze tube, most auto parts stores carry it. Wipe the shipping oil off the new lifters with a lint free towel and slather the Lubriplate on. If you can't get that stuff, the Federal Mougal assembly lube is good too, its a sticky red liquid in a bottle. Either way, you want a lube that clings, it is essential for proper break-in and the lifters could run dry for up to a minute or two upon initial start. The shipping oil is only a package preservative. I like and recommend those lubes from experience of multiple engine builds & repairs. It's all I will use, and that included our 3000+hp top alcohol engine. If your just clean & refresh your old lifters, DON'T use a heavy/sticky lube inside them, just motor oil.

compress ignite · #12 05-07-2015, 01:03 AM

to both "T" and "S" !

mannys9130 · #13 05-07-2015, 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mytmousemalibu

The INA's are what I put into my 603 and was very happy with them. I think the whole job cost me about $200, lifters, valve cover gasket, parts cleaner, etc, and a little bit of my time. Get yourself a tube of Lubriplate white assembly grease for this job, its Not lithium grease in a tub, this is a squeeze tube, most auto parts stores carry it. Wipe the shipping oil off the new lifters with a lint free towel and slather the Lubriplate on. If you can't get that stuff, the Federal Mougal assembly lube is good too, its a sticky red liquid in a bottle. Either way, you want a lube that clings, it is essential for proper break-in and the lifters could run dry for up to a minute or two upon initial start. The shipping oil is only a package preservative. I like and recommend those lubes from experience of multiple engine builds & repairs. It's all I will use, and that included our 3000+hp top alcohol engine. If your just clean & refresh your old lifters, DON'T use a heavy/sticky lube inside them, just motor oil.

When I replaced my lifters and timing chain tensioner, I blew out all the oil passages in the head for the lifters, put the new ones in place, poured engine oil over all of them, reinstalled the cam, poured oil all over it as well, pumped the tensioner inside a cup of oil to prime it, installed it, hooked up my mighty vac to the shut off valve and pumped it down, then cranked for a good minute in 20 second intervals. I got oil pressure up on the first 20 seconds of cranking. That got oil up to the head, filling the lifters, cam bearings, and timing chain tensioner. Then I started it up and let it run at idle for a few seconds before bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding until it came up to operating temp. That was what Ina recommended.

I'm still very pleased at how quiet my engine is now. No more rattles. And with T6 5W-40 these lifters should last for another couple decades until they are noisy again.

mytmousemalibu · #14 05-07-2015, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

When I replaced my lifters and timing chain tensioner, I blew out all the oil passages in the head for the lifters, put the new ones in place, poured engine oil over all of them, reinstalled the cam, poured oil all over it as well, pumped the tensioner inside a cup of oil to prime it, installed it, hooked up my mighty vac to the shut off valve and pumped it down, then cranked for a good minute in 20 second intervals. I got oil pressure up on the first 20 seconds of cranking. That got oil up to the head, filling the lifters, cam bearings, and timing chain tensioner. Then I started it up and let it run at idle for a few seconds before bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding until it came up to operating temp. That was what Ina recommended.

I'm still very pleased at how quiet my engine is now. No more rattles. And with T6 5W-40 these lifters should last for another couple decades until they are noisy again.

Thats a good idea to let it crank over at low speed without running to let the engine oil supply reach/prime the valvetrain. I did actually zip-tie my fuel stop lever down and crank mine over a bit too. I still like having the assembly lube though. Never had a problem with any of my engine builds and that includes quite a few new camshaft/lifter break-ins. I know plenty of guys who didn't do things right and ground lobes off their cams during break-in. Its something to take serious thats for sure. In this instance we are reusing our perfectly good used cams in most cases but the fresh lifters do need to wear-in. Less risky in this instance. I ran the same Rotella T6 in mine, very impressed with them and the ole' butt dyno says the car ran better besides being nice and smooth and no more clattering lifters.

Now with my 606 build, should I need to replace any, I will call on INA again. I'm sure they made the OE lifters anyways. INA made all the BMW lifters too, but slightly different design. I've installed a lot of other INA parts in the past and have never been disappointed, always top notch parts.

tjts1 · #15 05-14-2015, 06:27 PM

The old #14 lifter left, new INA right. Slightly different design.

Purdy

Bathed them in oil with the oil passage rotated to the top.

Put the lid back on the tupperwear, queeze down and release. With each squeeze/release cycle the pressure inside the container would force a little oil into the lifters followed by an air bubble coming out. Repeat about 50 times until no more air comes out and I'm done priming the lifters.

They're probably going to soak for another week until I have a chance to install them.