Going to rebuild my 722.315 - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

300dmichael · #46 07-15-2015, 01:20 AM

Inside the piston bore is a seal O ring, plastic guide ring and an aluminum ring..

You just pick them out and that pretty much finishes this section

DeliveryValve · #47 07-15-2015, 01:43 AM

Be sure to not install that aluminum ring/sleeve back. If you didn't know, the updated sleeve is nylon to help prevent the B2 piston from binding. Also there have been several updated reiterations of the piston itself.

Excellent thread so far.

300dmichael · #48 07-15-2015, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

Be sure to not install that aluminum ring/sleeve back. If you didn't know, the updated sleeve is nylon to help prevent the B2 piston from binding. Also there have been several updated reiterations of the piston itself.

Excellent thread so far.

Thank You!! I didn't know that .Where can you get that part?

DeliveryValve · #49 07-15-2015, 01:55 AM

You can get them here, dealer or at the salvage yard. Pretty much any 1988 and newer 722.3xx will have the updated parts.

Latest B2 piston rendition 170 270 04 32 or 126 277 11 38

Updated Nylon sleeve 126 277 08 50

300dmichael · #50 07-15-2015, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

You can get them here, dealer or at the salvage yard. Pretty much any 1988 and newer 722.3xx will have the updated parts.

Latest B2 piston rendition 170 270 04 32 or 126 277 11 38

Updated Nylon sleeve 126 277 08 50

Thank You..That nylon sleeve can be found new easy enough..The black plastic ring is included in the master kit..But no nylon sleeve..

I need to look at the piston real close..A new piston is not cheap!!

300dmichael · #51 07-16-2015, 12:58 AM

The front piston that works the B1 band..From reading of the service manual..

It is only used in 2nd gear..I don't think that there is anyway you could service this piston in the car..Besides in comparison to the other piston, this piston doesn't act up too much..At least from I have seen..everyone is working the rear piston..not this one..

Using the same bar clamp and a socket, it took everything I had in the way of hand(both) strength to get the clamp to squeeze about an 1/8 of an inch...But it was enough to get the circle ring clip out..
Then releasing the clamp slowly..about 5 inches of travel and the tension is relieved..

2 springs..In inside the other..And the piston..Not sure what to look for yet on this piston in comparison to what was told me in regards to the previous piston..
Thank You Again Delivery Valve!! I probable would have just reused the old aluminum ring again!!

Mike

300dmichael · #52 07-16-2015, 01:06 AM

You have the sealing O ring and this big plastic piece that just pops out of there..

100 pictures!! so far..I told you it was going to be a very intensive thread..I hope that I am not putting everyone to sleep!!

But this has to be done carefully especially someone like me that cannot expect to remember all of this..So taking pictures like this really helps!!

Mike

300dmichael · #53 07-16-2015, 01:40 AM

On the other side of the transmission for the B1 band is this part called the Pressure body..It has 2 sealing rings and it looks like hydrollic pressure is applied to thrust its pin outward to the band..Making the band that much tighter to the drum..

That plug was a bear to get out..It is a 13 mil allen head and it was gummed up from the last time it was taken out ..So with an impact and some effort, it finally broke loose..

That pressure body was just picked out with needle nose pliers..

So other than the kick down cable and all the plugs for the pressure port testing..That is about it for all the outside parts..

Now we get to disembowel this beast!!

Pull out all the inner gears and guts..!!

Stay tuned..
Mike

tyl604 · #54 07-16-2015, 10:53 AM

Very interesting. Great thread. Is this transmission much more complicated than others or is this pretty typical? Have never seen the inside of one.

Zulfiqar · #55 07-16-2015, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604

Very interesting. Great thread. Is this transmission much more complicated than others or is this pretty typical? Have never seen the inside of one.

This is akin to reworking an old GM. The good part is that mercedes benz actually gave more than a few damns to make the thing.

By comparison of the mercedes NAG1 - the NAG1 valve body removal takes 5 minutes and then there is just the barrel and the clutchpacks.

BillGrissom · #56 07-16-2015, 03:36 PM

Thanks for the excellent photos and description. The design looks fairly old-school, like something you would see from Russia. The oil sprayer is neat. Two things scare me - the $326 price of the basic rebuild kit. I bought a similar "clutch & steels" rebuild kit for my 64 & 65 Chryslers recently for $55 and my 2002 T&C kit was $108. If you need internal "hard parts", they are easy and cheap for old U.S. cars, but could be a treasure hunt for the M-B. I am especially worried about the many plastic parts you show. Nylon has held up well in automotive apps, but still seems like just time before it turns brittle.

Re tyo604's question, I would say this tranny looks more complicated inside than most U.S. trannys. I understand this one is somewhat similar to a 1960's Ford tranny (vacuum modulator). My old Chrysler trannys (904, 727) are straightforward inside and easy to rebuild, and fairly unchanged thru the 1990's. I rebuilt my 2002 minivan 4-spd tranny and it was even simpler inside (no bands, just more clutch packs). Some complexity moved into the electronic "solenoid pack" and that can be easily swapped from the outside. But, surprisingly it still has the "valve body", which looks as complicated as 1960's trannys. I have no idea about the latest 6+ spd auto trannys and all the variations of "auto-stick" and CVT.

300dmichael · #57 07-16-2015, 04:54 PM

Thanks guys for all the comments..

You are right, this is a transmission that really is straight forward in it's construction..Yes 325 for a master kit, but there was a lot more Ford c6-4 and Chevy 350 trans out there in comparison to this 722.3xx..

I am doing this as a personal challenge, but to also show that the average guy who works on these cars can handle a rebuild like this..

The only special tool that I have used is that silly bar clamp!!

How often you see on this forum of someones tranny taking a dump and the only solution is an expensive rebuild at a tranny shop or getting a hopefully good one at the wrecking yard..

Besides, how many perfectly good 123-116-126 cars are at the wrecking yard because of the expense of a rebuilt trans..

You drop your tranny at a rebuild shop and because it has MB on it..3 times the price!!

I will have probable 700 into this..That price includes a rebuilt torque converter..

How much would a transmission shop charge??

Besides when I pull out on to the street to test drive it and it shifts through the gears, like I had just pulled out of the dealership when it was new..It will put a big smile of satisfaction on my face of a job well done!!

300dmichael · #58 07-17-2015, 01:24 AM

Now here is the beginning of what you all have been waiting for!!

The front pump has 9 bolts and after removing them, nothing happens..So you use 2 of the bolts and looking at the pump in the picture you see a threaded hole at the 9:30 and the 3:30 position..You just take a bolt for each hole and start screwing it in evenly to press the pump out..

I just turned each bolt about a half a turn each, alternating back and forth to bring the pump out evenly..

Then the pump and all of the extras attached to it, like the 6 sided piston comes out like a unit..Nothing is loose or rolling away..I just set it on the table and that finished it..I will dissemble it later..It is now in a box waiting..

You can now reach in and grab the forward band..you just reach in with needle nose pliers and whatever to pop it out of there..

As you can see in the last picture, the band was beyond worn out and the 1st clutch pack has slight groves cut into it..I will show the removal of the 1st clutch pack in the next post..

So far so good..
mike

300dmichael · #59 07-17-2015, 01:50 AM

Now you reach in and pull out the first drum and clutch pack..As you pull it out there is a thrust washer and a stack of shim rings that come out with the drum..

I am sure that these shims are important for some sort of measurement to be done when you are putting it back together..I just took a good picture and put all the shims and thrust bearing in a plastic bag..

The drum clutch pack is a complete unit..nothing loose and you just pull it out..no spring or balls going every every direction..so no fears..I just set it down in the same box as the pump assemble and will work it later..

Mike

Stretch · #60 07-17-2015, 01:59 AM

Shame it has worn so far

How much damage is there on the drum?