Axle shaft replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ceristimo · #1 01-07-2016, 03:29 PM

Hi guys,

It's the start of a new year and about another 4 months before winter is over and I can drive Betsie again, so I figured this is a good time to slowly start fixing up a few things that I have been putting off for a while now.
I need to fix the broken front seats (I think I'll go with the pool noodles, if I can find those in Alaska

), and there are some other small odds and ends that need to be fixed.

The slightly more major thing I want to replace are the axle shafts. The boots on mine are torn on both axles, and even though they are not making any noise, the boots were torn when I bought the car last February and at the very least I drove nearly 5k with torn boots. No idea how long the previous owner drove around with torn boots. I am very surprised they don't make noise yet, but I don't think rebooting makes much sense.

However, since I am a major dumbass I figure I would just start a topic on the progress of this project, so I can ask questions as they come up.

First things first is ordering a list of parts. I'll order everything from this website as I've had good experience with PelicanParts.

For the axles I am going to order the USA Industries - Empi brand axles. I know these won't be the same quality as the original Mercedes axles, but since this is just a summer/hobby car and I don't really rack up many miles in it, I hope these would survive for some time.

Now, my main question is: what other parts should I order? I figure I would need to get two differential output seals as well.
And of course oil for the diff. Should I just get 85w-90 dino oil for that?

Can anyone offer some extra advice? Maybe you did the job before and you ran into a weird problem you could make me aware of before I start? I am not expecting many problems, but I did read about a few folks that had issues with getting the axles back in, and there is also some stuff about shims needed on the axles to not have any play, and that the shims are part of the differential? I did not entirely understand how or what is up with those. Are not all axles the exact same length? Can I use whatever shims are on the original axles and transfer them over to the replacements?

jabstick420 · #2 01-07-2016, 04:07 PM

I believe you can reuse the shims/circlips/etc.

85w-90 is correct. I used the liqui moly gear oil in that weight. works fine, but I think synthetic is ok too.

you'll need sealant for the differential cover. and perhaps a puller for the old seals.

I will be doing this job in the near future. looking forward to read about your experience.

ROLLGUY · #3 01-07-2016, 07:12 PM

If there is any way you can get annular style axles, they are better. It will be the last time you will need to pull the diff cover, as the shafts are bolted to a flange that remains in the diff. They are easy to reboot as well.....Rich

Ceristimo · #4 01-07-2016, 08:47 PM

Judging by the pic those cheap axles on PelicanParts already are the annular type?

@Jabstick420
Thanks for the tips! I probably won't start doing the work until next month though, I'm just trying to gather some information.
I won't be able to drive the car until about May anyway, so I am in no rush for now.

chrisgt · #5 01-07-2016, 09:44 PM

I just did an axle on mine, really not a big deal. To get the axle back in I braced my foot on the diff and pulled outward knuckle, that give me plenty of room to slip the new axle in. Make sure to coat the splines of the next axle lightly with oil.

One thing with my new axle was the replacement center bolt was a little bit longer and of poor grade, it was slightly bent. Also the provided washer was a flat washer, the original is actually cupped with a thicker portion in the middle for the bolt head. I used the original bolt and washer! Take note of the washer orientation when you take it apart so you can get it back together the same way.

Make sure you have a 14mm internal hex for the drain/fill plugs. They're on there TIGHT!!! I tried welding to a bolt with a 14mm head and I kept breaking the threads and stuff. I finally had to go buy the proper socket...

funola · #6 01-07-2016, 10:20 PM

There's another thread going on where someone says you must replace the axle or ball joint if if the boot is torn. I am not recommending that you do this but on my 83 I had a torn axle boot tear was about 2 inche long. I never did anything about it and drove it as is for 50,000 miles without it making any noise.

Diesel911 · #7 01-07-2016, 10:38 PM

When changing Axles even the real Mercedes Axles might need different thicknesses of shims/spacers.
Stretch (he previously went by the name Army) had an Thread where he had issues fitting the shim onto the Axle due to the way the aftermarket Axle was made and then had to send it to a machchine shop th have the shim/spacer surface ground down to the size that was needed.

There is a lot of threads on W123 Axles. I can't remember if Empi Axles are a cut above the other aftermarket (made in China Axles or not).

mannys9130 · #8 01-08-2016, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

There's another thread going on where someone says you must replace the axle or ball joint if if the boot is torn. I am not recommending that you do this but on my 83 I had a torn axle boot tear was about 2 inche long. I never did anything about it and drove it as is for 50,000 miles without it making any noise.

Please stop recommending poor maintenance practices. This forum is for maintaining/restoring the cars, not driving them into the ground.

mach4 · #9 01-08-2016, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

There's another thread going on where someone says you must replace the axle or ball joint if if the boot is torn. I am not recommending that you do this but on my 83 I had a torn axle boot tear was about 2 inche long. I never did anything about it and drove it as is for 50,000 miles without it making any noise.

Please stop recommending poor maintenance practices. This forum is for maintaining/restoring the cars, not driving them into the ground.

Please reread the post - a closer examination will show the specific words "not recommending" used, highlighted for your reading pleasure.

Now I'm not suggesting, recommending or implying that one should engage in poor maintenance practices either, but just because there is a tear in the boot the car will not explode or even die. It can be safely driven to the next most convenient time to effectuate the repair - in one persons experience maybe even up to 50k miles...no need to panic.

I'll add my experience to the mix - when i picked up the donor car for my conversion BOTH axles had boots that were completely torn in two and had obviously been that way for some time and there was no noise....your mileage may vary.

rotorbudd · #10 01-08-2016, 08:04 AM

Try these guys instead.
They rebuild MB driveshafts.
Great quality, and the price is good too.

CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

funola · #11 01-08-2016, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

Try these guys instead.
They rebuild MB driveshafts.
Great quality, and the price is good too.

CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

Based on personal expereince, I'd agree that a quality rebuilt is better than a cheap new axle.

Case VW Jetta:

Alignment shop (Firestone) used Oxy- acetylene on tie rod nut and melted CV boot on original VW CV axle with 230k miles which were not making noise, just spewed a lot of CV grease and made a mess. I decided to change both axles with cheap new replacements (around $60 ea). One axle was noisy immediately after install. These are lifetime guaranty axles so it was replaced with another one of a different brand by the supplier. It was a PITA removing the noisy axle because it would not come off the flange end after removing the 6 Torx bolts. Normally it should just fall off by itself but not this one. I had to spend 45 min beating on it with a hammer (tight space wise to swing a hammer) to get it off. Turns out the machining tolerance at the flange was off which made it an interference fit when it should not be one.

I kept my old VW axles with 230K miles and will reboot them if these cheap new axles start making noise. Since the new axles I have are lifetime guaranteed by the supplier, I should be able to get free replacements for them and will sell them when it comes to that.

In my experience, cheap new axles is a crap shoot. YMMV

funola · #12 01-08-2016, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

Please stop recommending poor maintenance practices. This forum is for maintaining/restoring the cars, not driving them into the ground.

Please stop being an alarmist! You can only go so far with a 30 year old car with lot's of rust. The 83 was destined by me to be cheap reliable transportation, not ever going to be a restored. It was well maintained to be safe and reliable. The axle with a torn boot made no noise. I was going to replace it if it started to make noise but it never did so I left it alone. Engine had 250 k when I bought it, was slow and smoky .... lacked power. I brought the engine back to life by replacing injector nozzles, cleaning the fuel system, driving it hard, ran it on a 3 tank VO system for 50K miles after which I sold it with perfectly matched 400 psi compression on all 5 cyl. That engine ran great, better than my 85 with 1/2 the miles.

DeliveryValve · #13 01-08-2016, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceristimo

....
For the axles I am going to order the USA Industries - Empi brand axles. I know these won't be the same quality as the original Mercedes axles, but since this is just a summer/hobby car and I don't really rack up many miles in it, I hope these would survive for some time.

Now, my main question is: what other parts should I order? I figure I would need to get two differential output seals as well.
And of course oil for the diff. Should I just get 85w-90 dino oil for that?

...

What other parts to order? Paint... Empi Axles are known to rust, so I would paint the whole thing before installing.

As far as diff oil. I would just use the prescribed 80w90 dino oil. Not 85w90. Synthetic would be fine if you are going to totally clean out the inside diff to remove any left over debris.

.

mannys9130 · #14 01-08-2016, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Please stop being an alarmist! You can only go so far with a 30 year old car with lot's of rust. The 83 was destined by me to be cheap reliable transportation, not ever going to be a restored. It was well maintained to be safe and reliable. The axle with a torn boot made no noise. I was going to replace it if it started to make noise but it never did so I left it alone. Engine had 250 k when I bought it, was slow and smoky .... lacked power. I brought the engine back to life by replacing injector nozzles, cleaning the fuel system, driving it hard, ran it on a 3 tank VO system for 50K miles after which I sold it with perfectly matched 400 psi compression on all 5 cyl. That engine ran great, better than my 85 with 1/2 the miles.

By the time something makes noise, it's been really bad for a really long time. Run an engine out of oil and check it once it starts making noise... It's toast.

It's not just you on the road you know.

mannys9130 · #15 01-08-2016, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Please reread the post - a closer examination will show the specific words "not recommending" used, highlighted for your reading pleasure.

Now I'm not suggesting, recommending or implying that one should engage in poor maintenance practices either, but just because there is a tear in the boot the car will not explode or even die. It can be safely driven to the next most convenient time to effectuate the repair - in one persons experience maybe even up to 50k miles...no need to panic.

I'll add my experience to the mix - when i picked up the donor car for my conversion BOTH axles had boots that were completely torn in two and had obviously been that way for some time and there was no noise....your mileage may vary.

I'm not suggesting you jump off a cliff BUT, I did and I survived.

^ Does the "not recommending BUT" absolve me of blame if you die? No, the car won't explode. The axle will just overheat and seize, locking the wheel and causing steering issues. Several people here have remarked that once they got on the highway, they were alerted to their torn axle boots due to the noise the axle made. That's pretty close to seizing. Once you screw up the axle by doing that to it, there's no hope.