If it didn't leak before, leave it alone.

What they said ^. If you noticed any significant leakage past the gasket, check for damage to the gasket or head corresponding to the leak, otherwise, just let it keep the oil in.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Re above two posts. Once joint is broken, it is no longer same as it was It would be nice if it was because it was not leaking.

UPDATE: I tried painting on some acetone and lo & behold, with just a little rubbing the black deposit came off. Only spent a few minutes on it in one area when I got home this evening, but if it all comes off that easily, problem solved.

Will use the smear of sealant when re-installing. I do have an OE gasket bought a few years back. Have to do a few trial runs without sealant, because as I recall, the cover doesn't just drop on - it has to be "maneuvered" into place

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I suggest you try placing the cover on the head without the gasket. I've adjusted 617 valves several times and I still believe getting the cover back on is the tough part of the job.

If you have a significant leak you should check the mating edge of the cover with a straight edge. Sometimes the cover is warped by over tightening the nuts.

Do yourself another favor and torque the nuts according to the specifications. If it leaks then you know the problem is the valve cover. I've also read that if the valves haven't been adjusted for a while it sometimes takes two passes to get them corrected. I'm guessing you have to adjust them, drive the car a bit then adjust them again.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Ever since I started using Gaskacinch (basically rubber cement), I have not had a leaky valve cover. This stuff is almost water thin, and is very easy to remove the next time the cover is removed. As others have said, please stay away from any kind of silicone (even Permatex for that matter) for this job. Gaskacinch is great for most all gasket sealing jobs, and also for heater/radiator hoses. It seals around corroded aluminum connections, and also makes it easier to remove rubber hoses when needing replacement. I recommend that everyone have a can on hand when working on these cars....Rich

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

I agree. That is why I want to do a couple of trial runs. You are right - better without gasket.

Cover never leaked before and previously I always torqued to spec.Had to buy a tiny torque wrench with low enough setting. Don't expect any problems there. By the way - Once that valve cover is on and not leaking, it stays on

Regarding Gasgacinch rubber cement. Never seen that in stores here in Canada. Their website doesn't say much. No temperature rating given.

I did use a rubber cement last time to adhere the gasket to the cover before installing - a very light coat of Lepage contact cement on the outside rim of the cover. Then set cover on flat surface, pushed down and weighted it until it started to set. This just to hold gasket in place during installation.

Can't recall what I used on sealing surface. Very little, if anything. But maybe that was black Permatex that I just removed?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I haven't used permatex for a couple decades but I seem to remember having to scrap the residue off with a sharp putty knife. I've never used it on aluminum.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Permatex does have Gasket Remover that apparently allows most of their sealants to be removed with minimal scraping. Might have worked for me, but the acetone got the job done this evening.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I use both 1/2 & 1/4" old wood working chisels to clean the surface of the head. A razor blade is usually too sharp and too wide to get in where it needs to go. Don't use the chisels with a hammer or get stoooopid and the head won't be adversley affected at all. Mo MGB used cork gaskets and scraping was SOP.

My SD valve covers leaked no matter how carefully they were installed. I tried several suggestions from this board looking for a sealant. Silicone tends to squish out even when only a little is used. Use too little and it won't seal.

Someone suggested Copper Kote (check the spelling. It's likely wrong.) That works ok even though it says not to use it on rubber gaskets. I had some old school Permatex Hi-Tac on the shelf that hadn't been used in years. I apply to the head and the gasket then let it get a little tacky. No more leaks. Use a rubber mallet to get the cover loose for the next adjustment. Reuse the valve cover gasket multiple times.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

This article from Hemmings is kind of general, but does seem to be a good summary of the various types of sealants.

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/09/13/tech-101-how-to-use-the-right-gasket-sealants/

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Run your finger along the grime. If you can't feel it, it won't cause any problems so just leave it. If you can feel it, make a scraper with a single edge razor and a foot long broom stick. Cut a slot at the end of the broom stick at the "correct" angle for a scraper, then cut the razor in half to make it narrower, then glue it with 5 minute epoxy.

I made such a scraper with an 18" long broom stick for the guy who was painting our house to scrape all the windows clean of paint splatters. He was on a ladder and it worked great.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Have you tried to do that on your car though? There's not likely enough room even for the broomstick handle.

As mentioned above, I got the entire sealing surface clean by using a stiff artists brush and acetone.

There is a ridge of surface crud on the head just outside the sealing area. I will try and scrape that off and then clean so that the gasket does not get contaminated during installation. Hoping to get to it today. Only 12C at present so need for it to warm up a bit before completing and double checking valve adjustment.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Just getting to that stage. I did a couple of trial runs. No way I was getting that cover back on. Yet it came off easily enough?

Then memory clicked in! Remove the cruise control actuator (at least on later cars that have it). Then working from driver side line up cover with studs, lower driver side over chain and use it to push injector flex tubes out of way, then lower passenger side onto studs and on she pops. Repeated this several times. No problem at all - IF the actuator is first removed. May leave it off - CC doesn't work anyway!

Another finding: The OE gasket is a snug fit on the valve cover. It stays in place, so no need for any adhesive to keep it in place during installation.

Not so good: The gaskets come from dealer on a flat light cardboard with a thin clear plastic covering. Nothing to protect the gasket during shipping and storage. I found a small imperfection in one area.





I should return it, but I bought it in 2008! Seeing head is no longer 100% perfect I will use a smear of grey Permatex ultra (as discussed earlier) and hope it overcomes any imperfections. BTW, found an old post of mine, and found that I did use Permatex Black last time, so that must be what was coating the head and that the acetone removed.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I just adjusted the valves for a forum member 2 weeks ago and used my fingers and paper towels, wiped the entire head VC seal areas clean. If my finger tips can reach it , 1/2 a razor bladed hafted to a wooden rod longer than my fingers will definitely work. The 18" broom stick was an example for scraping windows. I do not recommend making it that long for what you need to do. Make it so it fits the job! Maybe a broom stick is too large in diameter. Try a branch from a tree around 1/2" diameter.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I got the VC off and back on w/o removing cruise actuator or air cleaner housing. It took a few minutes of finagling though.

You'll regret not using some kind of adhesive sealant to glue the VC gasket to the VC. Murphy's law says you will knock the VC gasket off just when you almost have the VC close to being seated..... then you will be cursing.

I did not use sealant between gasket and head. Have not heard complaints of leaks yet so afaik, it is not leaking.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked