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  #1  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:42 AM
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I went back to the yard and got the cruse amplifier, GP relay and blue vacuum amplifier. Had a closer look at the car breaks 85% life remaining. Really the only problems I could find was the sls and center bearing problems, fuel leaks and 1 GP open cct. New air filter so im still thinking the engine has issues soon to find out.
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:40 PM
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Pulled the intake manifold no abnormal gunk and not too thick. No. 2 intake valve is oil soaked the rest dry or semi moist not sure what that means. GPs are all rather new beru. Compression test hopefully tomorrow.
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2018, 08:30 PM
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EGR could be the culprit of oil in the intake valve.

If you do an EGR delete and oil consumption is at negligible levels then it's something you can live with.

This ought to be a fun thread. I'm staying tuned for this...
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  #4  
Old 01-16-2018, 08:42 PM
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Unless the engine is blown and the turbo is hemorrhaging oil, the EGR will NOT be the source of the oil. Soot yes, oil no.

The #2 intake tract is right at the crossover pipe, so if the turbo is slobbering oil from leaking seals or the engine is worn enough to cause enough blowby to push oil through the breather hose, it will naturally collect in #2's intake tract.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:04 PM
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on the inside of the valve cover a channel runs to the bank side the egr intake is there but a open j tube exits the channel close to 2 intake. Maxfrank had a post some time ago.
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:24 PM
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That is the breather or "PCV" baffle built into the valve cover. It has nothing to do with EGR. It also will have nothing to do with your valve being oily - think about it - oil is sprayed around constantly inside the valve cover.

EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It is the valve that opens between the exhaust manifold and the supply pipe to the crossover pipe. The point is to introduce exhaust gas into the intake air stream to lower the temperature of combustion and drop the NOx level of the exhaust gas. There shouldn't be any oil in the EGR system, any oil will be coming from the breather tube or from the turbo seals leaking.
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  #7  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:54 PM
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Ok got it, the turbo intake has a pool of oil collected so definately blow by the egr pipe was dry when i had removed it.

So have to sort out the cooling system to plug in and warm the engine i'll do both a cold and warm compression test. Checked the oil and its right where its supposed to be bonus they never emptied the engine oil.
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Last edited by dieselbenz1; 01-16-2018 at 10:13 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2018, 10:19 PM
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The pool of oil in the turbo inlet can be from blowby or it can be from leaking turbo seals. When you get the engine running, pull the breather tube off and see if you have smoke blowing out of the breather hole in the valve cover. If you don't, it's likely the turbo seals leaking.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2018, 12:10 AM
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It's unlikely to be a leaky turbo. Oil pressure in the turbo capsule is fairly low, so oil escaping on the compressor side tends to go up the crossover rather than being ejected into the intake tube. Where does the oil stain begin? I bet it's at the point the breather enters the intake tube.

It's not necessarily blowby, either. The PCV and oil separator are fairly inefficient, even when new. Any leaky engine seal combined with a worn out PCV diaphragm can result in airflow dragging additional oil out of the engine. It's also impossible to inspect the PCV, since the key components are buried inside the valve cover.

Last edited by Mxfrank; 01-17-2018 at 12:21 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2018, 08:04 AM
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Donar car and after spending $502.23 total 7 hours into it now.

Didn't have much time yesterday inspected turbo looks great spins easy no play at all. Removed and tested GP's all good but one like ohm readings before removal. Removed fan and coupling lots of belt remenants wound between fan and coupling sure looks like it threw a belt at some time. I had thought the guy who took the alternator had just cut the belt. Measured belt size for just running water pump or maybe figure out something else just looking to run engine for a couple hours if it runs at all. Transmission is also full of oil maybe down half L.

Plan is cold compression test, plug in for 4 or 5 hours then a warm compression test then start it. Just waiting on fetching a battery and one colant hose.
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2018, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
Donar car and after spending $502.23 total 7 hours into it now.

Didn't have much time yesterday inspected turbo looks great spins easy no play at all. Removed and tested GP's all good but one like ohm readings before removal. Removed fan and coupling lots of belt remenants wound between fan and coupling sure looks like it threw a belt at some time. I had thought the guy who took the alternator had just cut the belt. Measured belt size for just running water pump or maybe figure out something else just looking to run engine for a couple hours if it runs at all. Transmission is also full of oil maybe down half L.

Plan is cold compression test, plug in for 4 or 5 hours then a warm compression test then start it. Just waiting on fetching a battery and one colant hose.
Did you pull the intake air filter setup?
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:57 PM
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Did you pull the intake air filter setup?
No but I would be close on Monday if you want it, cost plus shipping a new filter is also in it.
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2018, 07:32 PM
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The starter just clicks does not turn will look for something tomorrow. Well another reason it maybe in tthe yard?
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2018, 08:36 PM
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Please tell me you tried turning it over by hand before pulling the engine.
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2018, 08:52 PM
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bet the alternator seized and shredded the belt. Hopefully the engine was not severely overheated and seized...

My 1987 300d went from 85C to 115C in the blink of an eye when my alternator shredded the belt. I got it shut off fast, though and she's still kicking.
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