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#1
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A slower AC compressor could lead to reduced cooling at idle. Other than that, no big deal if the pulley does not rub anything.
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#2
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COOL.
Also my car is cool! Now I need to attend to this loud aux fan before it craps out. I think a cleaning/lube/greasing of bearing/motor is in order. |
#3
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If the W123 fan has anything in common with the W126 fan, you have a ball bearing and a bronze sleeve bearing. Don't grease the bronze bearing, you'll ruin it. Oil for electric motors ONLY (such as Zoom Spout oil or 3-in-1 in the blue bottle). The ball bearing is typically not a sealed bearing and is better to be replaced than lubricated.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#4
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I found a fairly straightforward clean/lub pic walkthrough in on here that seemed to be well received.
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#5
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just giving an update - my refurbished AC system with the slightly incorrect r4 compressor (pully is half inch too big) is still running nice and keeping me cool. And I haven't even swapped out the r134 for my r12 yet. Cooling is great!
__________________
Andrew Montclair, NJ -------------- 1982 300D Turbo 120k Petrol Blue Green |
#6
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bottom line up front: your compressor may be upside-down, and will have a shortened life due to improper oil flow inside the compressor.
Please read my post in this thread, it is #6: A/C - HELP! - 1985 Mercedes (W123) A/C Washer Sealing Further, my understanding about the manifold seals is that MB specified the metal seals because the increase vibration of the diesel engine caused the plain old rubber seals to fail prematurely. I am not sure what type of seals your compressor has, but some of the commenters in this thread recommended the rubber seals, and I think that is incorrect.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#7
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? I thought the whole point of the R4 compressor was there's no oil resivoir, the oil travels with the Freon making how you install it irrelevant ? .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#8
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It makes sense to me that the oil inside the compressor will want to flow downward because of gravity. If there are in fact oil channels that don't get oil because they are upside-down, then that would explain the short life span of "new" compressors. They may be clocked for the majority of applications (GM), so the MB application would necessitate re-clocking before installation. I assume they were clocked from the factory for MB originally.
__________________
![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#9
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Quote:
The R4 is like a 2 stroke engine where oil is carried along with the freon. With R12 mineral oil would mix with the freon allowing it to circulate through the system. Mineral oil won't dissolve into R134 and that is why other oils are needed. It's been a while since I've had a R4 apart but I don't recall any internal sump. The only thing to " clock " would be the clutch coil plug and maybe the shaft seal housing as the outer case is entirely round and hose connections part of the main housing. |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#11
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Thanx Rich ! .
AC, like carburettors, really should be done by someone who's doing it on a regular basis . I stopped doing big American 4BBL carbys in the 1980's and don't miss it much . I still fiddle with 1BBL Webers and Solex's, Rochester B and MV series carbys on the older stuff I have but if you're not doing it frequently the details sorta slip away .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#12
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Yeah I give up. Shouldn’t have wasted my time. It was great having ac for a couple months though but I see that my system is likely doomed.
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#13
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Quote:
Not so fast, you've just learned more and now have some more work to do. If you address the possible issue now by pulling the compressor and checking to make sure the oil bore clocking is correct, you can probably get years and years of service from it.
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#14
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Your last post ( 137 ) says the AC is working fine, what is the problem now?
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#15
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My R4 situation is presently entirely due to the fact that I bought the wrong part and cannot be (at this time) blames on the R4 design itself.
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