hi, I replaced my injectors due black/white smoke on idle and huge vibration on idle..

Now it smokes on idle a lot less but, still a little.

Vibration almost gone.











--------

HG been tested no leaks/ head ok no cracks.

Valves adjusted.

chain stretch been measured is within tolerance.

Glow loop spirals not replaced yet

fuel pump not yet adjusted.

algae has been in the fuel tank will replace with a bigger and cleaner fuel tank.

You mention fuel pump not adjusted yet. It should be checked of course and may or may not need adjustment. Injection pump being the fuel pump of course. There are several reasons it may not be timed correctly. It is a common culprit to make smoke.

That is the earlier engine. Find the line from the vacuum pump to the intake. If there is any oil in it can produce this effect. Oil would be getting by the diaphram in the vacuum pump. You may have a later engine where the line goes back to the engine block. This cannot create that issue. I often wondered why they did not just let the line vent to the atmosphere. In service it just provides an equalizing effect for the movement of the diaphram on the non working side. Of the vacuum pump diaphram mostly. This is a bit of a long shot but not totally uncommon either.

How is your air cleaner? Really dirty can make smoke and hurt fuel milage. When I have a suspect air cleaner I just remove the filter temporarily for a test. If a visual examination is not adequate.

First of all there are variouis ways to determine if the smoke is unburnt fuel or base oil. A lot of owners run their engines at the half way point between the marks on the dipstick. Otherwise they found the oil level fell fast until it reached that approximate suggested area of the dipstick. Probably not all of their diesel engines of this era do this. Yet many seem to after an oil change for example.

Compression test hasn't been mentioned here. Properly adjusted valves are one thing, a worn out engine or tuliped valves are another. If you're low on compression or have a worn engine, even perfect injectors, timing, and valves won't alleviate rough starts or smoke.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

I have an early engine it has the old style roller bearing diaphragm. I want to refurbish this vacuum pump as the seal leaks out oil.

My airfilter is just 30miles old. Engine is fine start immediately and shut off kicks good back.

Will do the timing.

How to do the timing? any fsm?

There are dozens of posts, take some time and read a bunch, it's scary until you do it, then like everything else it's pretty simple, just don't get creative .

You'll need to make up a drip tube .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I am assuming you are asking for info on your W123 1979 300D...right?
(It is helpful to provide vehicle info as part of the question.)

Direct links to the Disc 1 and Disc 2 of the free MBUSA W123 FSM:
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/program/matrix6.htm
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/matrix6.htm


Disc 2, Engine Manual, Section 07.1 is the Diesel Injection system section.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

The drip test might be necessary

But first I'd check the camshaft timing because if that is out then you'll automatically change the position of the IP (because it is connected via the timing device) which might put things back to how they were.

The so called 2mm lift test is described in the FSM here =>

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/05-215.pdf

There are also two explanations in the old peach parts wiki here =>

PeachPartsWiki: Camshaft Woodruff (offset) Key install

PeachPartsWiki: Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

Do not be tempted to do a visual check between the camshaft notch and the pulley - this is notoriously unreliable - the 2mm lift test is THE test to be done!

########

I expect this will help with your starting troubles too and perhaps stop your love of messing about with glow plugs!

########

As for the FSM some people have flash problems with the startek site for that reason I listed a whole load of OM617a direct PDF links here =>

Mercedes Startek have done the right thing - to help you do the right thing!

Begins at post #68

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Oh - hang about - have you got an OM617 or OM617a? Turbo or non turbo?

Non turbo has different timing so you need to get that data - I can post that if you can't find it yourself

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

run it for 10 minutes at over 100 mph,always made mine run better

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

haha, non turbo. Blows white smoke (unburnt diesel not HG). Temprature 175F

Still haven't tested compression apparently.

Shake + white smoke = combustion problems and/or compression issues.

What pop pressure are your new injectors? Balanced?

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Link is working but, as soon as I click on the sub tabs it says document not found.

See post #8


Two alternatives for you there!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The info on the startekinfo site is not accessible on all devices nor by all web browsers.

AKAIK, the site was designed with computer access via the Microsoft Internet Explorer (IE) browser in mind.

Smart phones also have issues connecting to the info on the submenus
I usually connect with the Chrome browser with my desktop computer.
The Adobe Flash plug in needs to be active.

BUT, if I want to use the embeded links in the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual),
I HAVE to open the url link with IE.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022