I saw you had checked them, but did you replace the fuse even though it looked ok? That's what had happened to mine, the scanner wouldn't connect to the car, swapped the fuse for a different one in the fuse box and it was fine for the 4 years I kept it with no other fuse related issues. Definitely was lucky, that car had a surprising lack of electrical problems.

What part of the obd2 port has power confuses you?

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Nothing, I read your post and you said that the scanner wouldn't communicate with the OBD-2 port, and I was trying to help because I had the exact same thing happen on the same kind of car, but you are being extremely rude and insulting. Good luck, and sorry for trying to be helpful.

No your condition was you weren't getting a connection with the obd2 port. Yes you had a bad fuse.
My condition is I'm getting a connection, or power, at the obd2 port but the ecm is not communicating with the scanner. Completely different condition.
Your problem wasn't a lack communication. It was that your obd2 port wasn't getting power. As soon as you got power you were communicating with the obd2 port.
I wasn't trying to be rude. It's just that you don't seem to grasp the difference.
Hopefully I explained this to where you understand the difference between connection and communication.
I'm done.

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Try a big boy scanner that designed from the ground up to communicate with your Mercedes.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-by-foxwell-parts/professional-mercedes-scan-tool/018657sch01a~scf/

If it don't work send it back for a refund.

Or

Take it to the STEALER(dealer) or a well equiped independent to have it hooked up to a scan tool.

DON'T TELL THEM YOU HAVE A NO COMMUNICATION ISSUE, just have them hook it up and run for general code scanning.

I fear if you do indeed have communication but YOU insist you don't, you may get scammed by a crooked tech.

Can't get any easier than that.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

I'm in the process of getting a 38 Mercedes pin connector to 16 pin obd2 connector adapter. I'm going to try and see if the scanner I bought works. The scanner us supposed to have the Mercedes protocol but I'm thinking it needs to be connected to the 38 pin port. That's what I've learned on this forum. Sounds about right.
If what I'm trying doesn't work then I'll see about getting the scanner you suggest. Fair enough. Like I said I'm not trying to throw money at the problem. And yes I don't trust mechanics or dealerships. So that's not part of the equation.
Roddy

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I mean you could just take it to the dealer or indy and have codes ran for less money than buying a scanner. That's what I would do, just say"Hey, I want codes run" that's it. You'l know within minutes if it's your scanner or ecm.

This is probably simple case of YOUR SCANNER not being compatible.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Someone on the forum explained that the early obd2 Mercedes ports weren't up to the task and that the 38 pin port was what worked. That's what I'm in the process of verifying. I fully expect this approach to work. Whether my current scanner is up to the task is unknown.
I want to provide a road map as to what works and what doesn't so the next person can learn from my experiences.
I'm waiting on the 38 pin Mercedes port adapter. Might take a while but I'm going to check the signal voltage as soon as it warms up.
If the scanner I have doesn't work using the 38 pin adapter on the Mercedes. I'll get a dedicated one that does.
I don't need the Mercedes at the moment so the time required to resolve the issue isn't pressing.
Still not trying to throw money at the problem.
Roddy

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Guys:
The ONLY scanners that will work on this car to do deep level diagnosis is the HHT or Xentry.

You can use the 38 pin to 16 pin OBDII adapters but all that does is bring the one data line from the ECU into the OBDII port the long way around instead of the native ODBII port in the car.

Unfortunately, as I said above, only the federally required emissions trouble codes were passed to OBDII from the ECU used in the W210/OM606. There is a separate serial line that comes out of the 38 pin port that is read by HHT or Xentry (which runs a sub program called HHT Emulator) to do a deep dive into the ECU to find out what’s really going on. This serial line is not connected in the 38 to 16 pin adapter so having that adapter will not tell you any more than plugging your scannner directly into the OBDII port under the dash.

Also the scanner recommended by FoG will work on your car, but again only for the minimal emission related codes. A scanner that costs 1/10 as much on Amazon will give you the same function on a W210/OM606 as this one. This scanner however will do much more on modern MBs because they carry all the system data through the OBDII port.

The policy at my dealer is to charge one hour of shop time ($145) to pull codes with their Xentry system. I bought a bootleg system on eBay, it has paid for itself many times over, especially when I was having the crank position sensor failures this past summer.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

If my scanner has Mercedes protocol. If have it hooked up to the 38 pin will I be able to pull codes or determined whether the ecm needs to be repaired.
I do know of a decent Indy but he's in the next town. I will take the car to him if I can't make my scanner work. Although my car runs not so good at the moment it should be able to make the drive.
Walk me through the process. My take. Take it in and identify the codes. Take the car home and replace what was identified by the scanner. Return run another scan and clear the codes. Am I close to what to expect.
I'm still going to check the signal voltage and grounds and see if that indicates an ecm issue.
Roddy

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Checked 3 sensors.
Turbo transducer 2.79 signal volts

MAF sensor 5.07 signal volts

EGR transducer 6.93 signal volts

Not sure what this indicates but I would've liked them all to be 5.07 signal volts.

I've mentioned that I suspect the turbo and get transducers. Might be the ecm instead.

Another thing I noticed is the get vacuum lines was under vacuum at idle and that isn't supposed to happen so that's troubling.

Can someone give me some insight as to what's going on and how to correct the issues I have?

Roddy

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Egr not get. Damn spell check.

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You can check the vacuum sustems using this diagram:
EDIT: This is for the non turbo, but most of it is the same

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

The egr transducer is supplying vacuum to the egr while at idle. Not supposed to do that. I'm going to swap the turbo transducer with the egr transducer while replacing the vacuum hose. Then check to see if the egr transducer is still supplying vacuum to the egr at idle. If it doesn't that would indicate a bad transducer. The one that's connected to the turbo.
Correct me if I'm going in the wrong direction.

And something else I noticed was the egr valve was still under vacuum with the engine off. That doesn't appear to be right.

Sounds like a bad transducer to me.
Roddy

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Did the MAF and EGR delete today. The engine ran very quiet and smooth when it first started. After it warmed it wasn't quite and developed a rather annoying miss.
I used a miti vac and pulled a strong vacuum on the egr diaphragm and it held. I then released the vacuum and was expecting to hear the egr valve slam shut but it didn't. I did this numerous times and didn't hear the value slam shut.
I plugged the vacuum hose going to the egr vacuum diaphragm and the vacuum hose coming out of the egr solenoid/transducer. Was I correct to do this?
I'm going to remove the egr valve but can't find a egr valve gasket for a 1999 Mercedes e300. I need someone to identify a source.
Thanks in advance,
Roddy

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