R320 Issues - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jay_bob · #16 07-31-2019, 08:37 PM

And some thoughts on the OM642 air filters:

Factory replacement interval is 4 years/40k, it needs to be 2 years/20k. If you wait 4/40 your filters will be super plugged and performance will seriously suffer.

You do have to run adapatations after changing the air filters with Xentry. Not sure if iCarSoft can do this.

If your air filters are severely plugged I would go ahead and replace the breather puck/PCV valve assembly. If the filters are clogged it’s highly possible your diaphragm in the breather puck has ruptured. Thus sucking oil straight into the air stream just downline of the turbo.

The trick for the air box installation: the back screws are captive and the front screws are not. Here’s how to remove and install the air boxes (having BTDT many times with 4 OM642s in the house):

Remove the front E10 screws totally and set safely aside. Back the rear screws out until they can be pulled up and down freely. These screws are captive and do not need to be completely removed.

Next loosen the 7 mm on the band clamps at the air boxes and turbo. Unplug the PCV electrical connector (push gray tab upward about 1/4 inch then push inward on the tab while pulling up the connector shell). This is important as the PCV valve inner core is electrically live and if it touches the engine it will blow the engine computer sensing fuse. Pull the PCV valve out of the “bat wing”. Unplug the MAF sensors, then push the air boxes outward while rotating the bat wing upward, and remove the bat wing.

Now loosen the snorkel tubes from the front of the air boxes. Unplug the delta p sensor on the drivers side air box. Grasp each air box and pull straight up to remove from the two rubber grommets.

Before replacing the air boxes, take the captive screws and pull up and screw about 2 turns into the collars in the air box body. This holds the screws in the proper position so that when you reinsert the air boxes they are hovering over the screw holes in the head. If you don’t do this, the threads of the screws will get jammed up as you try to seat the air boxes and the air boxes won’t go in the grommets.

Once you get the air boxes seated in the grommets, don’t tighten the bolts just yet. First replace the Y-pipe. Be sure the flaps on the boot are outside the horn of the air box all the way around. Since you left the boxes loose you can pivot the boxes outboard to allow easier insertion of the boots around the horn. Once you’ve gotten the air box horns seated all the way on the boots (look for the witness line on each air box horn) then rotate down to seat the center of the Y on the turbo outlet.

Don’t over tighten the clamps especially the one at the turbo outlet. Be sure the orange gasket is clean and the turbo flange is clean, so you get a good seal, and avoid losing boost and dripping blowby oil into the swirl flap motor below the turbo. Put the PCV back in the hole in the Y-pipe.

Once you have the Y-pipe secured back in place then you can go ahead and fasten the E10s holding the air boxes. Don’t forget to plug the connectors back in (PCV valve, 2 MAFs, delta P sensor on left airbox). Finally put the snorkels back on the air boxes.

Granted I have never done this to an R320 but I have done it on the E320 and ML320 versions. I know on the ML320 you have to remove the trim pieces hovering over the back of the engine to be able to get at the air boxes. I suspect it is similar on the R320 by the way they probably have the engine tucked back in there due to its really short hood.

ROLLGUY · #17 08-01-2019, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by happyinwi

...............................................................

After spending some time on the phone with the dealer we were able to determine that a sensor was supposed to be in that hole. It took some sleuthing to find the little bugger as it had wrapped around and behind some other wiring. Seems that the clip had broken off the sensor and it ejected out of the flange.

I had the exact same thing happen after I did the oil cooler seals on the '07 E320 I did a few years ago. The sensor did not get plugged in, and I had the same problem. It is easy to overlook it, as everything is black, and it is hidden behind other black things.

ROLLGUY · #18 08-01-2019, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

And some thoughts on the OM642 air filters:

Factory replacement interval is 4 years/40k, it needs to be 2 years/20k. If you wait 4/40 your filters will be super plugged and performance will seriously suffer.

You do have to run adapatations after changing the air filters with Xentry. Not sure if iCarSoft can do this.

If your air filters are severely plugged I would go ahead and replace the breather puck/PCV valve assembly. If the filters are clogged it’s highly possible your diaphragm in the breather puck has ruptured. Thus sucking oil straight into the air stream just downline of the turbo.

The trick for the air box installation: the back screws are captive and the front screws are not. Here’s how to remove and install the air boxes (having BTDT many times with 4 OM642s in the house):

Remove the front E10 screws totally and set safely aside. Back the rear screws out until they can be pulled up and down freely. These screws are captive and do not need to be completely removed.

Next loosen the 7 mm on the band clamps at the air boxes and turbo. Unplug the PCV electrical connector (push gray tab upward about 1/4 inch then push inward on the tab while pulling up the connector shell). This is important as the PCV valve inner core is electrically live and if it touches the engine it will blow the engine computer sensing fuse. Pull the PCV valve out of the “bat wing”. Unplug the MAF sensors, then push the air boxes outward while rotating the bat wing upward, and remove the bat wing.

Now loosen the snorkel tubes from the front of the air boxes. Unplug the delta p sensor on the drivers side air box. Grasp each air box and pull straight up to remove from the two rubber grommets.

Before replacing the air boxes, take the captive screws and pull up and screw about 2 turns into the collars in the air box body. This holds the screws in the proper position so that when you reinsert the air boxes they are hovering over the screw holes in the head. If you don’t do this, the threads of the screws will get jammed up as you try to seat the air boxes and the air boxes won’t go in the grommets.

Once you get the air boxes seated in the grommets, don’t tighten the bolts just yet. First replace the Y-pipe. Be sure the flaps on the boot are outside the horn of the air box all the way around. Since you left the boxes loose you can pivot the boxes outboard to allow easier insertion of the boots around the horn. Once you’ve gotten the air box horns seated all the way on the boots (look for the witness line on each air box horn) then rotate down to seat the center of the Y on the turbo outlet.

Don’t over tighten the clamps especially the one at the turbo outlet. Be sure the orange gasket is clean and the turbo flange is clean, so you get a good seal, and avoid losing boost and dripping blowby oil into the swirl flap motor below the turbo. Put the PCV back in the hole in the Y-pipe.

Once you have the Y-pipe secured back in place then you can go ahead and fasten the E10s holding the air boxes. Don’t forget to plug the connectors back in (PCV valve, 2 MAFs, delta P sensor on left airbox). Finally put the snorkels back on the air boxes.

Granted I have never done this to an R320 but I have done it on the E320 and ML320 versions. I know on the ML320 you have to remove the trim pieces hovering over the back of the engine to be able to get at the air boxes. I suspect it is similar on the R320 by the way they probably have the engine tucked back in there due to its really short hood.

Excellent treatise on air filter replacement, thanks. Yes, the R320 is very much like ML for the trim pieces hovering over the rear of the engine. The plastic cover is removed the same as the rest of them, and a metal cover is bolted on with two bolts on each side. It is fairly easy to access the exhaust pressure sensor and other parts at the rear of the engine. The DPF clean I did was on this particular R320, and it was worth the effort. We now have this one for sale, after doing most of the expensive repairs (DEF heater, DPF clean, P.S. pump replace, Exhaust Pressure Sensor, Trans service, oil change etc.). The only thing left is that pesky no brake light issue. I may have to get into the rear SAM as jay_bob suggested. '09 R320 Bluetec- no tail/brake loghts after installing repair harness
Oh the joys of owning one of these "R-Cars" (as we call it).......Rich

happyinwi · #19 08-04-2019, 02:23 PM

I picked up the Air Charge Sensor from the dealer yesterday, but couldn't install it until today. I got it installed and back together enough for a short test drive. I did probably 15-20 full rpm pulls and had 0 whooshing noise and no limp home mode!!!! I am fairly confident this issue is resolved.