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W116 Climate Control Help
Trying to take advantage of the unwanted extra time on my hands by working on my daughter's 1980 300SD a/c system. It was working flawlessly until my compressor when out. Had a new system installed and it was working great until just before Winter hit. Now, only the defrost button works. Here's what I've done so far:
1. traced each vacuum line coming out of the rubber multi-port and resolved all major leaks (see orange lines); 2. repaired vacuum line feeding the climate control system; 3. tested each blower and compressor master switch, they work. 4. tried to test vacuum at push button switch but could not register any. In picture #2, there are 2 empty ports. I used a plug on one and my finger on the other. The problem is when everything is connected, I get no vacuum at the test port (pic #3 & 4). But, using my handheld pump connected to test port, I can cycle through each push button - auto low/high/bi-level and each work fine. Blower and compressor kicks on and temperature changes as I move the temp wheel. As soon as I stop manually applying vacuum, the system turns off. Although I can toggle on/off the compressor using the a/c switch, the compressor did not cycle when adjusting the temp wheel. I'm at a loss as to what next needs checking. I'm thinking either the rubber multi-port is not sealing, causing a loss of vacuum or the push buttons are leaking. But if that were the case, why was I able to cycle the system using the manual pump? I'm considering pulling each of the vacuum lines from the multi-port and connecting them directly to the push button circuit. Based upon what I've described, did I miss something? Am I on the right track? Don't knock the temporary translucent orange lines. All I had at the time. Thanks in advance - John
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
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Klima I With Evil Servo From HELL
Oh, boy ~
I went through this in my first two NA W123 coupes twenty years ago, I don't envy you . There's lots of really good how to DIY info on this site, you'll have to read out and print it to use as cheat sheets . I suggest testing the Evil servo first as that's where most problems occur . Once it's done you can begin chasing the myriad vacuum leaks and so on . I wish I remembered what all I did, it was a steep learning curve .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
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Just a quick update on my 300sd.
With vac tester in hand, I went through each circuit, repairing/replacing rubber connectors, cracked lines and faulty check valves. But every time I went to run the system, nothing worked. There was good vacuum coming into the control panel but nothing after. So, I ordered a new push button panel, installed it, and boom! system worked. But no cold air. Compressor was bad too. Now I have a functioning A/C system but have one final questions. Is the compressor supposed to cycle? I've observed it running but have never seen the clutch release. The cabin air modulates just fine.
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
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The compressor should only cycle off when the evaporator temp regulator senses it starting to ice up. This is a very rare occurrence with these systems. Maybe when they were new, but I have yet to see an R4 and tube and fin condenser get cold enough to ice, and thereby cycle the compressor. This will NEVER happen with a 134a conversion. With a perfect compressor (Sanden), R12, clean as new evaporator, and a parallel flow condenser, I could see the scenario where the compressor would cycle......Rich
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
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