UPDATE: I just returned from the Mercedes mechanic after getting the codes read. Here are the main three to be concerned with.

P1615 - Supply voltage of control module

P1630 - Drive authorization

P1330 - Starter Actuation "terminal 50"



I will start my research right now via google and this forum to figure out what those codes mean and what parts to check/replace.


Ill update further once the car is up and running again.

More Updates

I have done a lot of research on the P1630 and P1615 codes. Unfortunately I was not able to come up with a straight answer for this issue. Due to this I will be noting everything I do on my repair to potentially aid someone else in a similar situation.

What I have compiled so far is three things to check

K40 Relay Box - Inspect solder joints on circuit board for back connections and resolder any burnt looking connections. My K40 looked OK but you could tell someone had already resoldered on the board so I ordered a new one to install, it is still in the mail


EIS System - Key and Ignition system could be faulty shutting down the engine as an anti theft protection. This is likely my problem as I have had intermittent starting multiple times, especially when it is cold out. The generation 4 EIS is what is found the on 1999 E300TD and what I have read they can be the hardest to clone a new one. I will be reaching out to a few places that can clone these and see about getting a new one.


IFI main ECM - The ECM could be faulty. all connections were checked and no corrosion is present. There are some voltage tests I still need to run in order to verify proper functionality



Hope this helps any one with the same codes. I will continue to update this thread until the problem is corrected. Thanks.

If you plan on keeping this car as is for a while, working on it yourself and continuing to drive it, you really should consider an appropriate "scan tool". Paying someone to read your codes every time the CEL comes on will quickly add up to the cost of a scanner. I have a '97 E300NA. As mentioned previously, the OBDII port under the dash is useless for digging into this car. Not all scan tools are ultra expensive and there's also the "used" market. I currently have the Autel DS708. It works very well with my car and also came with many adapters. Including the 38-pin for Mercedes. I bought it used a few years ago for around $300.

https://www.autel.com/autelcms/Discontinued%20Products/341.jhtml

Not all stored codes affect proper operation of the vehicle. Some codes may be stored for any number of reason. Some are simply records of "events" that occurred and the computer is just keeping track. You never mentioned if your mechanic "cleared" the codes. IMHO, you need to clear your codes and see what comes back. Also, and this is just my opinion, you need to work on one problem at a time. Fix or remedy THAT problem, then move on to the next. Don't guess or assume or think "it's got to be this that's causing that". I believe this thread began with an "injector" problem. Fix that problem and eliminate it. Then move on to another issue.
Working multiple problems at the same time is not the way to go. Just my 2 cents....
Oh, and, get a scanner. In the long run you'll be so glad you did. "buy once, cry once"
Plus, you'll be able to use it on many other vehicles and problems. Maybe even "offer your services" (like your indy) and earn a little cash on the side.

My apologies for posting in an older thread. I'd love to hear the outcome of kittenberger's research and how you resolved your problem with the engine shutting down and showing the P0200 code.


I have the same problem with my 1999 E300D (W210, OM606). The car starts fine when cold, runs until well warmed, then loses power, throws the CEL with the P0200 code, and promptly shuts down completely. When running, it has good power, no smoke, no performance problems. After it shuts down, it will not restart immediately. After 5--10 minutes of cool down, it will restart and I can drive it home. But the problem may happen again before I get home.


From my reading on the forum I know that I need the more advanced 38-pin code reader to pull the detailed codes. I need to check the forum for how to buy a good used one or a less expensive setup. (I'm happy to spend a few hundred bucks for one, seeing as I have three of these cars with the OM606 engine, but $1300 is too pricey for me.) Any advice in this direction is appreciated.

jaybob suggested replacing the crank angle sensor. I pulled that sensor off my parts car and I may try swapping it into the problem car. However, I saw on other posts that if the crank sensor is the problem, a different code would likely be thrown.

I like Murkybenz's suggestion to look at the fuel quantity actuator. My parts car has a working injection pump and I could swap over the actuator. However, it appears that the entire rear section of the pump needs to come off to gain access.

Thanks for any help you can offer.