"Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s! - Page 15 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

79Mercy · #**211** 12-23-2008, 07:37 PM

I didn't have a engine lift with me so I couldn't get it out.

LUVMBDiesels · #**212** 12-23-2008, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhodges

I did not see one in the thread so I am asking... has anyone done this to a 86/87 SDL?

This alternator will not work with the serpentine belt. Use an alternator from a later model gasser. I am going to get one as soon as I can...

gsxr · #**213** 12-23-2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

All OM60x engines, as well as M102, M103, M104, M119, and M120 are easy upgrades to 143A-150A because they all have serpentine belts. More details are in this thread on the 143/150 amp upgrade.

It's the older V-belt engines (OM617, M117, etc) that need the 115A AL129X.

See above - click the link.

vwnate1 · #**214** 12-23-2008, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quaid

I'm currently in the process of installing a 130A alternator into my W126 with M117.968 (5.6 ECE) engine.
It came from a Saab 9-5, and the overall dimensions are almost the same as the stock 80A unit. It was cheap at £20 ($30US) so I thought i'd have a play.
With a couple small modifications, I have the pulley installed, but just need to shave the mounting bosses back by about 1.5mm and install a 1.5mm spacer at the front of the mounts to keep the pullies aligned.
Will let everyone know if it actually works!

Ben

Just get the correct pulley (I use old GM pulleys) or add a shim behind the pulley then it's a bolt up deal , no need to shave nor modify the mounting bosses whatsoever .

vwnate1 · #**215** 12-23-2008, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

There were 2 Saabs at my junkyard. A 1987 9000 Turbo, 1991 9000 CD. I tried to get the alternator out of both of them and its impossible. How did ya'll get them out????

It just takes some time and patience is all , I remove them with the stock Mercedes toolkit .

It's a nasty job to be sure , look for a Saab that's partially disassembled , that makes it easier .

charmalu · #**216** 12-24-2008, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

There were 2 Saabs at my junkyard. A 1987 9000 Turbo, 1991 9000 CD. I tried to get the alternator out of both of them and its impossible. How did ya'll get them out????

I pulled a 115 amp alt. out of a 87 last summer. remove the R/F wheel, remove the plastic splash shield paneling. the altternator is right there looking at you.

there are a couple bolts to remove, then from up on top, I removed the clamp off the
oil fill tube. then woggled it back and forth till it broke off. then reached down between the engine and firewall.
I think i used a 6 inch extention and a wratchet to remove one or two bolts. then it just lifted out.

there is another year with the sideways engine, but the alt. sits up a little higher on the same side.
I never did get that PITA out.

the one out of the 87 was brand new, and she puts out real good

.
not too bad for $15.

Charlie

gsxr · #**217** 12-24-2008, 10:16 AM

I finally dug up the old email I had in my archives about another alternator upgrade option for W123's. See below for details. Only problem is, the price has gone up a little in the past few (ok, five years - to the day!).

But if you want a SERIOUS high-output V-belt alternator, this is a nice bolt-in setup. They also have serpentine belt setups.

Direct URL:
http://www.wranglernw.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=6476

------ Forwarded Message
> From: craigreece
> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 09:47:36 -0800
> To: Dave M
> Subject: Re: 143A alternator still available
>
> Dave,
>
> Hi. I just ordered and received a 155A GM alternator kit from Wrangler, for a
> 1980 300CD, and it comes with a nice gold-zinc plated bracket, very beefy. I
> also got, for my customer, the upgraded charge cable, and there is a
> Littlefuse 175A Mega fuse in the red power cable - 2 gauge - from the
> alternator to the battery. And you get a 2 gauge alternator to ground cable
> with it, all with adhesive-lined heatshrink, Dave M.-style. List is about
> $325-350 for the whole thing. Ask for Stan.
>
> http://www.wranglernw.com/

Rashakor · #**218** 12-24-2008, 02:57 PM

^^^ this would be a great setup if you are pimping the vehicle with big subwoofers and 1500W sound systems. 520 bucks is a little over my budget though!

quaid · #**219** 01-03-2009, 09:42 AM

I didn't use the 'normal' 115 amp Saab alternator, hence it didn't quite bolt in as you're describing. I used an alternator from a late model 9-3/9-5 with a 130 amp output.
The pulley sat too far forward, so using a shim behind the pulley would have made things worse, so I needed to shave the two rear most bosses and install a couple of shims on the front bosses to push the entire alternator back.
I used the stock 80A alternators pulley, directly mounted onto the new saab alternator, with no shims at all. I even has to shave some material off the alternator from behind the pulley, so it wouldn't foul on the alternators casing.

79Mercy · #**220** 01-04-2009, 05:18 PM

I finally got my alternator out of the 87 9000 Saab. I went to get it tested and they couldn't tell me if it was good or not. I took it to 3 places(2 advance auto stores, Autozone). The gal at autozone tested it and the computer said it passed. The guys at advance auto had trouble hooking it up, but they finally got it. It was putting out almost 15V when under load. But the doide light wouldn't go out on the machine. I asked him if it should be off and he told me he didn't ever know what it means(that figures). So my question is, should the doide light be on or off while testing? Thanks

79Mercy · #**221** 01-10-2009, 08:22 PM

I tried installing my 80amp unit today but I got confused about the wires. The terminal block is about a foot behind the passenger side headlight on the body. It seems that there are some wires running down the wheel well and connected to the terminal block, then some going from the terminal block to the starter or something. How do I remove the original plug, cut it out? Which wires do I need to hook up to make this work? Thanks

vwnate1 · #**222** 01-11-2009, 12:15 AM

Once you've unplugged it , the top of the plug simply snaps open , allowing you to slide the wires out ~ either cut the ends off and crimp on new ones with the correct size holes (the red wires will need crimp connectors with yellow insulation
, the other thin wire uses a blue connector .

Or , I've seen some DIY'ers just use the tip of thier test light probe to open a hole through the old push on connectors.... slip then right onto the studs , add flat washers and nuts...

Be sure to use flat washers on the alternator studs no matter how you finish the wire ends .

There's no need to run new wires , the old ones have plenty of length .

Others will chime in here , hopefully with pix of how they did it .

byarosh · #**223** 02-11-2009, 11:36 PM

I finally swapped my rebuilt 55amp OEM Bosch unit for the AL129X 115amp alternator from a 1993 Saab 9000. For $85 with no core to return I retired the 55amp factory alternator. May it R.I.P. I have swapped the 55amp OE version twice in the last year, the third time would have been last week. I found this "thread" and descided the 115amp Bosch unit from the Saab was a better solution, especially if I want to upgrade the audio with two amps and 1000 watts or more.

Power.. you either have the amperes or you don't. With 1/0 wiring and a fresh 49 group battery, my days of being let down by a failing 55amp OE alternator are now over.

Thanks to your feedback and suggestions in the "tread". This was quite easy. I did have to go to a longer V-belts as suggested on this "thread". The 10mm x 1000mm Contitech were swapped for Gates XL (model 7400) V-belt which are 10mm x 1031mm. They worked perfectly with plenty of adjustment still left on the factory mounting bracket. Pictures coming with the wiring upgrades.

Biotour · #**224** 11-24-2009, 05:28 AM

quaid- what model car did you put the 130A alternator in? if you managed to install it on a 617 engine i'm impressed. i just got the 115A al129x from a 92 saab 9000. had to remove the front passenger wheel and plastic splash guard. then 2 6mm hex bolts hold the alternator. i ended up taking off the upper right motor mount, the power steering reservoir, and still couldnt get that alternator out. i finally unbolted the throttle body and removed the upper and lower intake manifolds. wasn't really that difficult and the alternator just lifted straight out.

im upgrading my alt. because i've got an onboard wvo filtration setup in my trunk. Ive got a 1/2hp electric pump spinning a dc-20 centrifuge atop a heated 55 gal drum that was cut to fit in the trunk. I bought a 2000W inverter (i know its overkill but got it cheap) and am hoping i can run the pump while driving. The pump uses 9.2A @ 115V, which is a little over 1000W. If my inverter is 85% efficient then it needs 1250W. 1250W/14V=89A or 1250W/12V=104A used by the inverter. with no headlights or accessories on whats the amp draw to keep the car running? will i need a second battery?

quaid · #**225** 11-24-2009, 07:08 AM

I remember that some of those early Saab 9000's are a pita to get the alternator out of!

My alternator came from a late 1990's 'GM' Saab 9-5. I think the model was between 97 and 2000.

Its not fitted to an 617, but an M117 in my 500sel - The principal should be the same though, as the 117 and 617 use the same alternator style.

Like I said, its not a direct swap in, it did need a little tweaking.