You can definitely get longer belts... Fastlane lists 1037mm belts for the SD, and there's a 10 x 1050 belt (Porsche part #99919217750) that should probably fit but I haven't tried it.

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'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel)
'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)

Actually, no, you did not go beyond overkill. A single 4ga cable to the battery, for 115A, is just about perfect. Zero gauge would have been a little overkill. It sounds like you did a very nice job... let us know how it works out after you drive the car for a few weeks!

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

'Steered to it by a nice Lady in a reman shop in Texas.
'Ordered it Thursday from the ReCycler (In Hazelhurst,Ga.).
'Arrived Friday in the UPS man's hands.
It tested O.K. @ Advance this P.M.

$50.00 USD + $10.00 shipping.
(This must be for the Good Deeds, I'll do in my next lifetime!)
'Came off a '96 S600
[Nasty,Greasy child will get Electronic parts cleaner Tomorrow]
39K miles (allegedly)
'Soaking the "Nut" and bolts with SiliKroil until Tomorrow.
'Will get New Front and Rear Bearings and a New Voltage regulator.

GSXR,
Thanks,Again, for sharing this UpGrade with us!

(Guys,The bargains are out there,and as long as you don't have to buy the
Rectifier Bridge Pack [Pricey little Electronic DooDads] a Self ReMan ain't hard!)

Attached Thumbnails

   

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I did not see one in the thread so I am asking... has anyone done this to a 86/87 SDL?

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

For a 603 engine, it is a very easy upgrade IMO. The later gas engine 'Benzes are a good source for 90a up. Bolt right in, just need heavier gauge wiring and a ring terminal (vs the current plug).

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Compress - glad you got a good deal! It should be a relatively easy installation on your 1990 300D.

Nap, the upgrade is very easy for any engine with serpentine belts, including the OM603 in your 1986/87 300SDL. All OM60x engines, as well as M102, M103, M104, M119, and M120 are easy upgrades to 143A-150A because they all have serpentine belts. More details are in this thread on the 143/150 amp upgrade.

It's the older V-belt engines (OM617, M117, etc) that need the 115A AL129X.

Once you have the wiring and alternator in hand, you're milking it if it takes 2hours.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Note that some alternators will need to be re-clocked for appropriate clearances to the B+ terminal... this could add 30-60 minutes, depending how easily the case halves come apart. If you're lucky, you won't need to do this.

I installed the 115 ampere alternator and the damned thing _still_ doesn't idle @ 14 VDC ! so I'm going to try an upgraded voltage regulator next .

BTW : 4 Ga. battery cables are only good for 4 & 6 cylinder gasoline engines , V-8's & Diesels need the 1ga. ones for maximum cranking after a good heat soak or in freezing weather .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I use zero gauge cable for my cars.

Good boy ! .

As a matter of fact I work in a heavy duty truck shop so I make my own up using _welding_ cables and soldered on ends . I also add a little secondary ground lead from the negative clamp to the engine , it increases cranking voltage and speed greatly ~ I have a pic of it somewheres , I'll dig it up and post it if you want , cheap ans easy way to make those old Diesls crank right up cold or hot

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I got a 150amp bosch reman alternator off of ebay (no idea on what bosch part # it was in the first place) and aside from the difficulty in shoehorning it into place it bolted right up and it worked very well. idle @14.3v w/ nothing on and idle @13.3v w/ everything I can think of on, including me 1600watts worth of stereo. so for me it was a good $150 investment.

also I have been mulling over adding a second battery on the cheap, do 2-4guage cables (taken from jumper cables) sound sufficient for adding a second battery to the trunk? if not what would be a good size to go with? (remember I am thinking cheap here too)

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'81 300D - swapped to a 617.951 turbo motor with a 150 amp alt.

I'm currently in the process of installing a 130A alternator into my W126 with M117.968 (5.6 ECE) engine.
It came from a Saab 9-5, and the overall dimensions are almost the same as the stock 80A unit. It was cheap at £20 ($30US) so I thought i'd have a play.
With a couple small modifications, I have the pulley installed, but just need to shave the mounting bosses back by about 1.5mm and install a 1.5mm spacer at the front of the mounts to keep the pullies aligned.
Will let everyone know if it actually works!

Ben

There were 2 Saabs at my junkyard. A 1987 9000 Turbo, 1991 9000 CD. I tried to get the alternator out of both of them and its impossible. How did ya'll get them out????

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Ahh grasshopper, patience and a big ****ing hammer.