"Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s! - Page 23 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #**331** 07-24-2016, 02:19 PM

To verify here, a reclocked 80 or 115A will fit onto 616 and 617 w123 cars without modification? With A/C installed.

And one swaps the pulley from their existing alternator, to the new alternator.

Then it's just a matter of wiring...

Is the 80A and 115A the same case size?

Also, is there a reason to leave the noise suppressor cap off the alternator? I saw that mentioned in the thread, to leave it off, but not sure why. I'd think that a cap to reduce ripple would be a good thing.

WarTowels · #**332** 07-25-2016, 09:49 AM

Not sure what a reclocked alternator is, but if you're talking about the GM alternator then you need the PULLY and the FAN from your preexisting alternator.

The external casing of the GM is larger than the OEM which makes it a pain to install, but it can fit. With A/C or without.

vwnate1 · #**333** 07-25-2016, 12:16 PM

' Reclocking ' is when you remove the screws holding the two halves and twist one half to gain a better alignment of the adjusting tab or where the wires connect ~ This is most popular with the plain looking but sturdy and CHEAP Delcotron alternators , making them dead easy to adapt to almost any engine ever made .

WarTowels · #**334** 07-25-2016, 12:23 PM

Ah, didn't know that was a thing for alternators! The "re" also got me, in regards to turbos I've only ever seen it written as "clocking" though I now know both may be used. Thanks =)

vwnate1 · #**335** 07-25-2016, 01:43 PM

Well ;

they're ' clocked ' for original application so when you , the DIY'er does it , = re clocking .

WarTowels · #**336** 07-25-2016, 02:39 PM

That's just semantics and/or tense Nate, "Re-clocking" is the same thing as saying "clocking" because it's a given it's "clocked" from factory.

Similarly you could say, "I'm re-timing my engine", but equally correct and slightly more succinct to say, "I'm timing my engine". We know it was timed from factory

I was just saying the "re" threw me as I hadn't seen it expressed that way or applied to an alternator.

Cheers,

vwnate1 · #**337** 07-25-2016, 02:55 PM

Just so Greg ;

I wasn't sure you understood , lotsa DIY'ers here you know

.

Firewater · #**338** 04-12-2017, 10:30 AM

When I reclocked my Al129x I broke the wires inside. It was a while ago but my friend resoldered the connections and it worked good after that but had a loud whirring noise. I can't remember if I clocked it too far in the wrong direction or what.

maurinquina · #**339** 04-12-2017, 10:41 AM

Think its unrelated to the wiring issue but if the bearing isnt loose then try oiling it. Could also be the belt.

Rick76 · #**340** 04-12-2017, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firewater

When I reclocked my Al129x I broke the wires inside. It was a while ago but my friend resoldered the connections and it worked good after that but had a loud whirring noise. I can't remember if I clocked it too far in the wrong direction or what.

You cannot clock the alternator too far. The front housing is what you turn. The stator must remain in the rear housing in its original position.

Assault · #**341** 08-01-2018, 06:28 PM

This is quite a thread and took some time to read it all.

Application om617 80' 300SD Turbo
Alternator: AL129X 115AMP

From what I have read under perfect conditions the alternator would put out 1500watts. Which means you should really use 80% being 1200watts. Reason I ask is in addition to having all electric features running I plan to install a nice sound system.
What is the maximum I could safely go (with some spare room ac on stuck in traffic day)?

From what I have read I have to swap the pulley onto the bigger alternator, and the belt I should use is a 10mm x 1031mm Gates XL 7400. I want to keep the AC. Is this the correct way to go? I want to avoid the god awful belt squeal. ALSO I can use the original alternator bracket? I think so.

Finally, from all I read about the wiring debate. It seems to me I should upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the bracket (below the battery) to 4ga wire and call it a day. Do I need to upgrade any other wiring? Will this be safe considering the sound system question above?

Thank you!

Curveball · #**342** 11-01-2018, 09:34 AM

Did the swap, but I do not see where I plug the blue wire into the alternator. I can't figure out how to post a picture of what I have.

Alec300SD · #**343** 11-01-2018, 10:41 AM

The blue wire located at position '3' on the old alternator goes to position 'B' on
the new aternator as shown on the attached thumbnail in Post #5.

DIY - AL129X alternator in a 1978 W116 300SD

Tiktaalik · #**344** 09-23-2019, 12:21 AM

I have an OM617a engine and I am looking for an appropriate alternator that will sufficiently charge my Odyssey 34-PC1500 Battery. The charge requirements for the battery are:

Cyclic Charge Voltage: 14.4 - 14.8v @25C
Float Charge Voltage: 13.4 - 13.8v @25C

I think the AL69X or the AL129X should fit with the OM617a minor modifications but my question is: will they provide sufficient voltage output for my battery? Anything less than 14.4 will eventually kill my brand new battery.

Does anyone know the idle and above idle voltage outputs of these two alternators? Are there other Bosch alternators out there that fits the OM617a engine and provides a higher voltage output?

Diesel911 · #**345** 09-23-2019, 04:31 AM

If all you care about is voltage there is an old thread and an old site were a person added a diode to the circuit to increase resistance and that intern caused a higher charging voltage rate. That does not up the amperage.

Note that there is more then one thread on it.
Tis is the original site the info came from but I don't know if that site is still around.
http://www.detomaso.nu/~thomast/alternator/

Alternator Low Voltage - this worked (apparently)

I had 2 more pic to post but my computer is bulking at doing that.