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#46
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#47
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Thanks!
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#48
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I'm new to a 240D and might only use the powertrain in a non rotten pile........ but the turbo idea has been an interesting read at the least.
mine is a 1980 and only says 68 hp. if a turbo could bring it near 100 it would not need to be flogged as hard, and might even get a taller gear set/tire size. this has been good brain fodder. prost |
#49
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#50
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Jurgen Schrempp did the same with the MB subsidiary over the objections of certain technical guys, and later, to clean up his warranty mess, they kicked him upstairs and promoted Prof Dr Hubbert to run the technical show. Immediate improvement because the dude was a tyrant when it came to quality. He would listen to bad news but wanted solutions. Fortunately the 616-617 engines were born before that nonsense became the "corporate way." I think persomnally that the issues here are these: If you don't like your 240D engine the way it is, you can change it. How much you change it and what you do to it is your choice and depends on what parts you add following your own studies. It's real easy to compare all parts in 240 300D NA and 300D Turbo and change as needed. Or just replace a 616 with a 617 or a turbo 2.5 from a 190D Now that there is 30 years from the last W123 in the US, if you are very enamored of the OM616 Indian turbo, buy some selected parts and stick them in your now antique car. But if you REALLY want to be honest, start collecting data and report in detail on what you did and what the results were. THEN WE WILL ALL BENEFIT.
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#51
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Hi there!
I've been running my Turbo 240D for something like 12 years now, and I have to say that adding the turbo was the best thing I ever did to the car. Check out my posts, or feel free to pm me if you have questions. Cheers Chris
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1983 Turbocharged 240D 1982 Mazda RX-7 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup Converted to an EV |
#52
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I might hey going on this soon, we'll see, still undecided on what turbo to use, I'm thinking a 15g (?) since I believe they're pretty small (I think they come on other ~2.5ish litre diesel engines) and should hopefully spool pretty quick but have a low max boost (I don't want to boost past 5-6psi). I need to hunt one up and work on my manifold, probably a shortened 617a with an adapter
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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual 1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street 1974 240D, New paint |
#53
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It would be better to drop in a turbo charged engine.For one they are built to handle the stress.I would just add propane injection to a non turbo motor.It can give a added 100hp or more.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#54
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For argument's sake... propane is harder on engine internals then boost and proper fueling.
Propane and nitrous ignite at a lower temperature which basically creates uncontrolled detonation. Power increases due to the massive spike in cylinder pressure. High cylinder pressure is what causes part failure. Yes it does work but there are much safer/more reliable ways of making power. Boost on the other hand can be controlled. Monitor EGTs and with proper tuning, an NA-T setup can be reliable. Just don't expect it to make massive power gains on stock internals and last as everything has its limits. Also keep in mind that the engine was designed to operate at a set power point. As power increases, engine life expectancy decreases accordingly. This holds true for any engine... the further you push the envelope, the faster parts will wear/fail. Sure you can cram enough air/fuel in the cylinders to double/triple the factory power output... But don't plan on the engine lasting 500k+ miles. Now... my experience comes from pushing the envelope of a small displacement Cummins... but the principals still apply. |
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