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  #31  
Old 02-28-2012, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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okay guys heres the latest video..
ohms - YouTube

turns out the diagnostic port on the benz wasn't lying, about my injector codes, knock sensor codes, and the smog pump code..

and i know the knock sensors 1 just 1 thing now..

and the injectors shorting might be from a bad ground.. will clean it up with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, as well as injector cleaner.. and maybe even a light wetsanding.

i hope the wires arn't bad.. as i only bought 16 gauge wire.. cause if they are i need to spend more money on 12/14 gauge wires as well.. or maybe i can get a little bit cut as i don't need that much..

its sad my idle wasn't even that bad with wires just nutted..

so my idle dropping was probably my vacuum leaks honestly, as i have many vacuum leaks.
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  #32  
Old 03-05-2012, 04:35 AM
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M104 C280 Ignition Wire End Repair


hmmmm curious about this, and wondering if i can substitute the plug heads as well..

found out i have some cracks in the oilpan, and need a new coolant overflow hose :|


my oil pan.. *sigh* i needa get a new oil pan, and the under cover thingy..
not to mention i think my tranny pan is probably scratched to hell too.. cause that stupid driver!! cause im leaking ATF as well
-___-



Last edited by gabzor; 03-06-2012 at 06:01 AM.
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  #33  
Old 03-06-2012, 06:13 AM
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went ahead to do some cleaning before moving the fan shroud today.. and man do i need to get myself maybe a new oil pan.. hopefully its not as bad as i thought, i have a friend who can jb weld it temporarily.. but i need to get myself the bottom catch tray thingie that protects the pan.

went under and tried to clean as timmyr suggested, was wiping the oil pan over and over and going over it with a toothbrush, the toothbrush turned unusuable after 1 stroke noticed this plug, took it off to clean it, man i swear a whole bucket of sand came out of it


here it is after, well sort of.. i didn't have jack stands or anything and i just put my head under the car, so it was tough to clean but i tried to do what i could.. the wire that goes to it seems all messed up.. oil pressure gauge maybe? sprayed the hell out of it with electrical contact cleaner..



another side to do.. i couldn't reach it though.. and now i have access to a hose hehe my manager hooked me up..




heres my alternator before.. wait you can't even see it


cleaned it to the most i can within reach and its an alternator!!


used the last of my electrical contact cleaner its a little better.. although ill clean it properly after i take it off. (planned to upgrade alternator anyways but i might end up selling the car)



one rusty ass radiator
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  #34  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:33 AM
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you should go down to advance auto or AutoZone and invest in some jack stands and a small jack. The stands are like 20$. That plug is probably for the oil level sender. When the oil gets low..a light on the dash pops on.. Have your tried starting the car and seeing if any of that cleaning helped with your turn the wheel and kill the motor issue?
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82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #35  
Old 03-06-2012, 04:43 PM
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parts havn't come yet, ups put my package in the wrong truck and it ended up in alaska.. also waiting on XXXX
haha autozone.. i dont ever trust em.. as the previous owner probably tried to replace everything cheap by using autozone parts.. battery, who knows what, he gave me a autozone serp belt..

i was going to go to harbor freight soon with a friend, as their jacks and jackstands were reccomended by diyers and they also said to get a breaker bar from craftsman...

the cleaning might help a bit, i was going to take off the alternator, and replace the bushing pins, and the pulley as the timing chain cover is leaking.. havn't been able to start the car yet though.. no harness
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  #36  
Old 03-07-2012, 06:17 AM
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could not figure out how to take out the belt even with the service manual on ps2cho's site :| and to timmy, the belt was on tight, i kind of pryed it with my fingers, and a flathead to check the pulley real quick.. i don't know if the mechanic even loosened the tensioner, but he installed most of the belt with a pry bar..

belt - YouTube ~edit please disregard my comment about the mechanic ripping me off, not trying to rough up any feathers.
^
vid update..

picture of the pulley with lots and lots of oil, (driver side of engine)


the main fan clutch pulley seems to have a little bend? i heard these are EXPENSIVE for the w124.. will probably go scavenge one at the junkyard


right so heres the plug for the heater control i think.. i'm planning on cleaning it soon, probably will just get another plug from the junkyard.. but how do i repair a pin in that shape?


water pump?



this tensioner shock thing seems to not be sturdy, it shakes around which might be why my car is sounding like a diesel.. hopefully its not a stuck lifter or a rod knock, or a camshaft issue..


is this the alternator voltage regulator?


anyone know how to take off this damned black rubber cap thing?its an autozone spark plug removal socket.... the label was on it..



Last edited by gabzor; 03-07-2012 at 08:16 AM.
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  #37  
Old 03-07-2012, 08:47 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Was the car drive over dirt roads for years, to get that dirty?
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1989 W124 260E
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  #38  
Old 03-07-2012, 09:26 PM
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-That pulley doesnt look that bad. I doubt it would cause an issue. Maybe someone else will chime in though

-Not following the pin-shape question. Those look normal, just dirty as ****. I'd get another plastic plug bit from the junkyard

-Water Pump, hmm that looks like the thermostat housing. I'm not sure where the actual pump is on the m104, never been that deep in the front.

-That does not look like the voltage regultor. That looks like the connection from the alt to the dist block. The VR doesnt have anything connect to it. I'm not sure about that specific alt. It might be internal. On my SD's it looks like this:


-Cap. Lol Try some pliers and yank? All my spark plug sockets ever have in them is a rubber washer at the bottom.

Looks like you're making progress on this beast. Keep up the good work.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #39  
Old 03-07-2012, 11:31 PM
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the progress has slowed, but im waiting for parts.com but i did get the right parts.. but i'm still worried about my knock sensor, as the resistance is pretty high..

i still don't know what to do with the car, but once it gets running well see for sure..

my girlfriend.. says i use but too much when posting, and that she should get me a feather pen and a diary for my "car blog"

Last edited by gabzor; 03-08-2012 at 02:44 AM.
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  #40  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
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See this about the knock sensor:
Knock sensor troubleshooting
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #41  
Old 03-08-2012, 04:33 PM
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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engine doesn't knock.. well it does but it sounds more like a lifter knock.. interesting.. i will splice another knock sensor plug in later, first lets get this thing running..

the resistance on the knock sensor plug is high, but thats all.. but it might be causing problems..

can an engine knock even if your putting the highest octane available? due to a sensor?
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  #42  
Old 03-09-2012, 06:56 AM
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color today! still couldn't get the damned belt off, but i think i know how, i was unbolting the wrong bolt i think, i was doing the 13mm right below the tensioner, i think i have to get to the little round one on the bottom, or insert my rachet in the hole if i'm right? but i don't seem to have one that fits or i'm doing it wrong :|

i would have taken a pic, but phone died..

anyways, timmyr suggested i clean my purge valve so that i did..


the purge valve before cleaning. OH and do not blow with your mouth cover it! god wd40 and throttle cleaner does taste quite nasty
]

quickly cleaned it, didn't have enough carb cleaner, or wd40 to soak it, but it did blow all kinds of crap and dirt and crud out.. flows freely, which isn't good, but well see when i turn the car on, as i didn't have a 12v battery at the moment to close the valve either..


i feel like a total moron now, as i had to inspect the ETA cable, wasn't careful, when everyone said leave it alone and clean it.. *facepalm* stupid move by me.. but it doesn't seem bad.. i did order a butane solder, but electrical wire might just do it, as its only 1 wire.. but i have to buy hi-temp electric tape now -_-

heres the ETA before cleaning.. NASTY!



heres my "3rd hand tool" to hold the damned throttle down, and i think i should replace the throttle cable too as its in bad shape (plastic clips fell off when i touched it), and the brake booster line, as you can see its in bad shape as well.. was a pain in the butt to put the clip on the throttle, but it worked great


one dirty towel, front and back used just for the eta.. now i use it to wipe my oil leaks and toss it.


ETA after, much better, i'll do it again, when i buy some more cleaner, as i ran out

Last edited by gabzor; 03-09-2012 at 08:03 AM.
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  #43  
Old 03-11-2012, 07:36 PM
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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got some maf cleaner, carb cleaner, electric cleaner, and something called lectra-motive, meant for things like alternators, from crc.. parts should be here next week.. today i will probably take out the plugs, and attempt the belt again! also thinking of getting an ultrasonic cleaner
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  #44  
Old 03-13-2012, 07:07 AM
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little update, parts should be coming soon, i said what the hell and ordered some lower connectors, i think the spark plug wires are still good, i'll check it again with a good multimeter, should be here tomorrow.

new hi-temp, almost military grade wires soldered on to MAF connector


new MAF connections soldered to main harness, heatshrinked, prepped em for taping, which i will do later


JamesDean, now I see why they give you OEM parts, they are a dealer! or have connections to one.. I want my parts, not a some papers



Question To JamesDean if you see this thread, can i double heatshrink the connections? i got a fat one, or is the hitemp harness tape good enough?
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  #45  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabzor View Post
new hi-temp, almost military grade wires soldered on to MAF connector
ALMOST MILITARY GRADE? What if you have to go into combat? You're gonna be screwed.
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