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  #1  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:24 PM
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Smile Is this worth a $400 gamble 82 300SD with starter removed?

Hello, I have been researching my first MB buy for a couple of weeks now. This came up on Craig's list today. 1982 300SD mechanic's special $400. The seller told me it was a storage lien title. He opened the trunk and found the starter in it. That is all he knew about it. I have been looking for a MB with a 617.952 engine (300TD), as they seem to have the most tech info, and parts available, plus I am sure that model will fit my personality. My model list says the 300SD would have a 617.951 engine in it. What is the significance of one digit difference? Is this worth driving 50 miles to even look at? Thanks, Bill Dukes

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Is this worth a 0 gamble 82 300SD with starter removed?-mercedes-82-126.jpg   Is this worth a 0 gamble 82 300SD with starter removed?-mercedes-82-126-number-2.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukes View Post
Hello, I have been researching my first MB buy for a couple of weeks now. This came up on Craig's list today. 1982 300SD mechanic's special $400. The seller told me it was a storage lien title. He opened the trunk and found the starter in it. That is all he knew about it. I have been looking for a MB with a 617.952 engine (300TD), as they seem to have the most tech info, and parts available, plus I am sure that model will fit my personality. My model list says the 300SD would have a 617.951 engine in it. What is the significance of one digit difference? Is this worth driving 50 miles to even look at? Thanks, Bill Dukes
There is very little difference between the 617.952 and 617.951. The 617.952 (300TD) had the hydraulic rear suspension so there might be some slight difference in mounting brackets and other external items. But the two basic engines are the same. For a couple of hundered dollars I'd go look at it. You might also want to move this to the diesel forum, a lot of very good info over there. There is some significant difference in the two chassis of the cars. The 300TD is a station wagon based on the W123 chassis while the 300SD is a four door sedan based on W126 chassis.
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:38 PM
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I prefer the W126 over the W123 because it has more room under the hood.

The 300TD got the SLS pump on the front, thats the difference. They are the same engine.
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:14 PM
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Just to make sure....When you typed "TD" did you mean a station wagon, or did you mean Turbo Diesel?
(both .951 & .952's are turbocharged - the biggest difference, is probably the engine mount arms)
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:58 PM
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Larry, I guess I reversed the letters. I was looking for a 300 D turbo, not a station wagon. So I should have said 300DT, is that right? To summarize the feedback so far: 1. Picking it up for $200, not $400 would be reasonable. 2. The SLS pump is on the front. I will have to research what that means. 3. There is more room under the hood, (I like that). 4. The mounting brackets and engine mount arms are probably different from a W123, but all the accessories turbo, alternator, etc. are probably the same. I am trying to visualize the scenario of what might have happened. The worst case might be the engine seized, and wouldn't turn over, so the PO thought it was a starter problem. He may have replaced it with a known good starter, and when it still wouldn't turn over, removed the good starter and stopped working on it. He must have thought the car had some value or he wouldn't have put it in storage. If the engine runs I will never know how many miles is on it, but I will know the compression. If the engine is blown is there $200 plus towing value in parting it out ? Thanks, Bill Dukes.
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:38 AM
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You could probably part it out for more than $400 if worse comes to worse. If you are a good mechanic or decent do it your selfer I'd think it's worth the gamble.
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Old 07-25-2008, 01:42 AM
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Hello, I would describe myself as a decent DIY, not a professional mechanic. The only diesel I have ever owned was a Case backhoe, and I had a son-in-law who worked on that for me. SLS = self leveling suspension. OK, that is a feature I did not know about. I want the simplest and most reliable MB diesel model possible (plus turbo) . Is SLS on all w123 and w126's? Thanks, Bill Dukes
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:52 PM
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A decent DIY should have not that much trouble with these cars. SLS was on the 123 wagons for sure, and I believe on some sedans (euros). Not sure on the 126's, since I've only had one of them and it does not have it. I think it was mainly on euro's of that chassis also. Others can correct me. Simplest would be a 240, with manual everything IMO.

I'd buy the car for 400.
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukes View Post
Larry, I guess I reversed the letters. I was looking for a 300 D turbo, not a station wagon. So I should have said 300DT, is that right? ... If the engine is blown is there $200 plus towing value in parting it out ? Thanks, Bill Dukes.
When referring to a sedan, 300D is sufficient - no need to add the letter T for turbo.
As mwood said, you should be able to part the car out for more than $400.
If you have the time and space, go for it!
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:30 PM
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Story of the license plates

I don't know where you are, but the car is a lifetime California car, it carries the correct alphanumeric sequence for the original blue California license plates for 1982, so they have been on the car its whole life from brand new

The yellow year sticker on it goes waaaaaay back, maybe even to the year 2000 which might hav probably the laast time they were that color, when they were yellow, and that means it was last on the road a looooooong time ago

It is possible the license plate frame on the rear is that of the original selling California Mercedes dealer but the paper trail is going to be VERY cold on this car.

That means ipso facto it is pretty likely the car is not rusty or salty, deal killers with these cars.

That W126 Series 300SD turbo is one of the toughest and long lived of any modern car, not to say any Mercedes

I would take the gamble, $400 plus a lot of filters and good luck and you never know. The aircon aint gonna blow cold, I guarantee you that for sure. Way too many dry seals etc
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2008, 07:34 PM
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Smile

OK guys, you have been a lot of help. I am going to try to close the deal. I will let you know how the adventure continues. Thanks again, Bill Dukes
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2008, 09:45 PM
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Also, you can start them by towing them to 20mph and droping the trams into L.
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by joey.dale View Post
Also, you can start them by towing them to 20mph and droping the trams into L.
I was just going to say that Try it out by pull starting it....it should start.

I do it on a regular basis by my apartment, there's a steep hill I park at the top of, I just put it in neutral, put the key to run, roll down the hill a little ways till I am around 17-18mph....and put it in L...2-3 seconds later its running.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:09 PM
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OK, thanks for the starting tips. I have an appointment tomorrow afternoon to inspect it in person, and hopefully tie it up. I take a long time making new decisions, researching it very carefully. Once I have made my mind up about something like this, then I get impatient, afraid someone will beat me to it. I'll let you know. Bill Dukes
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2008, 10:01 PM
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Hello, I paid $300 for the car, but I won't be able to tow it home until Monday. There were more parts loosened and removed than he told me, but they all seem to be in the trunk or dangling under the hood. The starter was in the trunk, also the air cleaner, alternator, belts, fan, and a couple of hoses that looked like they went to the air cleaner. The power steering was unbolted. The glow plugs had not been removed. The oil looks a quart high, and solid black, but it has been sitting there long enough I suppose for water to settle to the bottom. One puzzling thing was the rear right door panels were off, like someone was working on the window motors. There were a couple of window motors in the trunk. I think that is puzzling, because if you had serious engine promblems, why would someone start working on a window problem? There is 193,000 on the odometer. I think I ought to remove the glow plugs and put some kind of solvent in the cylinders and let it soak overnight, before I even try to turn the crank. I will see if the starter works, and then put it back on, and do a cold compression test if it does. The car was last registered in 2002. This was a storage lein, so I hope that won't be a problem registering it. I will make sure it runs before I go through that expense. Bill

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