Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread

[Stretch]

Will it ever end?

Today I broke this bit





102 011 01 80

I need to get new nuts for the propshaft



124 990 14 51/02

When I took out the propshaft I noticed these were rusty - why do they bother with safety checks if the testers don't open their eyes?



123 420 93 28/64
123 420 61 28/64

...and one of the tie rod boots is split



Boots from the dealer are NLA

...the idler arm looked bad too but having taken it to bits it doesn't look too bad.

201 460 00 50

[Zulfiqar]

For sealing the timing case, you might want to look at threebond 1207B or 1194, the 1207B is a form in place gasket and is used to seal joints that have some space to account for squishing.

The 1194 is used for flat surfaces like motorcycle engine or porsche/vw/subaru crankcases. They are fantastic products.

The 1207B can be had at toyota too - they use it to seal oil sumps, timing cases etc. etc.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

For sealing the timing case, you might want to look at threebond 1207B or 1194, the 1207B is a form in place gasket and is used to seal joints that have some space to account for squishing.

The 1194 is used for flat surfaces like motorcycle engine or porsche/vw/subaru crankcases. They are fantastic products.

The 1207B can be had at toyota too - they use it to seal oil sumps, timing cases etc. etc.

I'm about to upload the pictures of the finished job - I used loctite 5926

I'm pretty sure threebond products are difficult to get here - more's the pity. We're lucky to have Permatex as an alternative to loctite. (Same company now though isn't it?)

[Stretch]

RTV on the front timing cover



I cleaned the surfaces with Eastwoods pre - officially used for painting but hey it works well for other stuff.

You don't need much RTV - hurts your hand squeezing it through the smallest nozzle size - no pain no gain!



Not much came out when I fitted the cover - just about right (in my oh so humble opinion). I wiped off the excess.

Fitted the sump too - so much progress I'm getting giddy.



Hylomar gasket dresser is being used to try and stop leaks.

It turns your gaskets into fly paper - so working under your veranda (not the best place in the world to do this I must say) can be a bit precarious if it gets windy...

[Stretch]

I don't know why but I bought a Febi seal - yet another moment of weakness...

It came with its own plastic cup!

(Referring to PeachPartsWiki: Replacing Front Crankshaft Seal with "Special Tool")

The oil pump drive slides on easily over the end of the crank. It is held in position and held tight so it turns the cogs in the pump by being wedged really tightly between the timing chain cog on the crank and the flange for the pulley.

Mine has two different ends.

One has a groove in it



The other no groove



I made an executive decision and decided to fit the groove up against the spacer which is cheaper to replace than the crankshaft cog.



Then on goes the spacer

[Stretch]

Here's the cup





I managed to push the seal most of the way in by hand. I finished off with a hammer and a punch though - carefully!

Then the woodruff key and the pulley flange



Then oil up the big bolt and the washers



Torque to 300Nm (5 white knuckles)

[Stretch]

...the tie rod boot that was leaking grease had leaked grease into the joint between tie rod and idler arm. Thing just span round in the hole on the idler arm. With the engine out it is easy access from above to yank out the idler arm and the tie rod in one go and then tackle the job in an area with more space,

As I would have tried to do on the car I used clamps to push the tie rod ball joint tight to stop it from spinning whilst you're trying to undo the nut.



This stuff is just so cute and little - it really is a baby benz...

[Stretch]

...I had to go and see a man about a dog.

On the way home I got some paint in a spray can (code 199) so I can squirt a bit on the battery tray area, the bit under the bonnet where the insulation was and the idler arm mount =>





(Trying out lots of new anti-rust products)

I also noticed some pretty weird rust in the transmission tunnel



I don't know what on earth is happening there - why rust in the middle of the car?

I'll have a look at it tomorrow if it isn't raining and also check I've got a mounting point for the 5 speed gearbox cross member.

I might even make a start on the replacement differential...

[Stretch]

Found another boot was gone on the middle tie rod thingy rod bit (Sorry I can only remember what the Dutch call it - resistance is futile you will be assimilated)...

...that thing is stuck. I ended up trying to remove the Pitman arm but couldn't really get access on the car without lying down so as the engine is out I got the steering box out with ease.



I then managed to get the Pitman arm off without any hassle. Probably the first time ever a two legged puller has ever worked on rusty car parts for me!



So then I used my light-weight tie rod end removal tool (that is no bloody use most of the time anyway and is thus expendable) the wrong way round in my hydraulic press to try and shift that stubborn tie rod...



...all that did was bend the rubbish tie rod removal tool a bit. It started to bend at 2 metric tons registering on the gauge.



Tomorrow fire - lots of it.

But first I want to see if I can get some tie rod end boots so that I can fix the damage I'm about to make.

[Stretch]

Remember folks - this is the car I didn't want to take to bits. This is a disease. No way out. I'm getting fed up - I know that the thigh bone is connected to the knee bone but why do I have to remove the head to fix it?

Oh well at least I'm filling up the PP server with pictures. I wonder when I'll get told to stop?

According to the control panel link =>

You are currently using 78.21 MB to store 1,523 uploaded attachments.

Not bad since 2009 I guess and in modern computing terms not too too much space?

[suginami]

Keep up the good work.

I'm enjoying the insanity.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by suginami

...
I'm enjoying the insanity.

I'm not sure I am anymore.

Now I've got the steering box out I've caught myself thinking - that'll bloody leak now I've moved it - the reseal kit is available in Germany for 20 euros...

2014600061 - Febi part 06471 <= Febi "what could possibly go wrong"?

[suginami]

Originally Posted by Stretch

I'm not sure I am anymore.

Now I've got the steering box out I've caught myself thinking - that'll bloody leak now I've moved it - the reseal kit is available in Germany for 20 euros...

2014600061 - Febi part 06471 <= Febi "what could possibly go wrong"?

Well, they do call it a disease, don't they?

[Stretch]

sssssssssslllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllooooooooooooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww...



That's all folks...

[Zulfiqar]

to remove that tie rod morse joint that I would have out of a car, I just wedge a large hammer or piece of steel under it and let my hammer dead fall on the eyelet. Usually takes 2 or 3 blows and its out.