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  #1  
Old 01-28-2007, 01:06 PM
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How to install camshaft woodruff (offset) key - pics

I decided to correct my timing chain stretch by installing an offset or woodruff key. The FSM on this is pretty straight forward so I just included some pics of how the woodruff key looks in place. The pics aren't as clear as I would have liked but I hope this helps someone.

Pic 1 is the old woodruff key still in place. It's just above the timing mark. Pic 2 is with the key removed. Pic 3 is a picture of the old key. I had to use vice grips to yank it out. Pic 4 is the new key and you can see how it is offset via a flange.

My timing was 4 degrees off at the crank. Now it is spot on. I swear the car is a little faster. Next job - set injection pump timing.


Scott

Attached Thumbnails
How to install camshaft woodruff (offset) key - pics-one.jpg   How to install camshaft woodruff (offset) key - pics-two.jpg   How to install camshaft woodruff (offset) key - pics-three.jpg   How to install camshaft woodruff (offset) key - pics-four.jpg  
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2007, 01:40 PM
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Removing the tensioner on the side of the engine makes things much more easy.

The offset should be on the left to advance.
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2007, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Removing the tensioner on the side of the engine makes things much more easy.

The offset should be on the left to advance.
I did remove the tensioner. Make sure you have a replacement gasket before you remove the tensioner or otherwise it will leak. Ask me how I know.

This really isn't that difficult a job. I had to gently tap on the camshaft gear to remove it and reinstall it but otherwise everything went along without a hitch. Make sure you support the camshaft gear with a bungee cord so you never lose tension. I also put vice grips on the chain as an extra precaution.
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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Old 01-28-2007, 02:26 PM
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Just don't move the sprocket any further than completely necessary to get the key out/in. If you have ever seen a 617 camshaft without the sprocket, you would know how close you were to loosing the sprocket in the second picture.
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Old 01-28-2007, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Just don't move the sprocket any further than completely necessary to get the key out/in. If you have ever seen a 617 camshaft without the sprocket, you would know how close you were to loosing the sprocket in the second picture.

I don't follow you. I think I had the sprocket completely off but I can't remember for sure. But at any rate, it was supported by a bungee cord so there was always tension on the chain. What do you mean by "lose the sprocket?"
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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Old 01-28-2007, 02:46 PM
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As in the sprocket comes off the camshaft.

I did my key about two years ago and only recently realized how close I came to dropping the sprocket into the chain valley.
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
As in the sprocket comes off the camshaft.

I did my key about two years ago and only recently realized how close I came to dropping the sprocket into the chain valley.

That's why I hooked the bungee cord to the sprocket before I removed it. That way it won't go anywhere - even if it comes off - and you will always have tension on the chain.
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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:02 AM
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Need to do this myself, to insert new key, did you have to move sprocket? Pull out from rear? Then reinstall? Not clear where key is located. Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Need to do this myself, to insert new key, did you have to move sprocket? Pull out from rear? Then reinstall? Not clear where key is located. Thanks.
The key holds the sprocket from slipping on the shaft so yes you have to remove the sprocket. There should also be a thrust washer between the sprocket and the tower which has to be removed too.
The key will be at around 2 o'clock on the shaft. it is OK to move the sprocket backwards the 2 or 4 degrees you'll need to get the sprocket back on.
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:21 PM
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Thanks, dannym. Start with cam at TDC? Will save this.
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2007, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Start with cam at TDC?
Yes. Don't forget to remove the spring from the tensioner or just remove the whole tensioner.
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:57 AM
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If anybody is home, I have a couple of questions...

1. With the marks on the CAMshaft lined up, I am -4 deg at the CRANKshaft. So my chain is 4 deg yanked right? so I get a 4 deg woodruff, or a 2 deg key for the CAMshaft?

2. Do I put the key in facing to the left or the right? I don't know if I want to advance or retard. (that didn't sound right, but you know what I mean?) I'm guessing I want to advance it.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2007, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post
If anybody is home, I have a couple of questions...

1. With the marks on the CAMshaft lined up, I am -4 deg at the CRANKshaft. So my chain is 4 deg yanked right? so I get a 4 deg woodruff, or a 2 deg key for the CAMshaft?

2. Do I put the key in facing to the left or the right? I don't know if I want to advance or retard. (that didn't sound right, but you know what I mean?) I'm guessing I want to advance it.
The marks on the camshast on the 617 is useless. Use the 2 degree method to check stretch.
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2007, 05:04 PM
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It's a 602 in a 92 300D(not a 617).

If it is 4 deg at the crankshaft, that's a 2 deg woodruff right?

And since it is stretched, that means the valves are opening late, so I need to advance the timing, so I put the woodruff to the left.
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #15  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:55 AM
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Bump

Good info.

Any fear of the cam moving (rotating) when the gear comes off?

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