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  #1  
Old 12-26-2000, 07:17 PM
mooch2
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So, here we go. On Friday my car(1990 190e 2.6) is running fine. As usual, before I get out the car I lock the steering wheel and put on my club. I come back later and remove the club and put the key in to start the car with no luck. The steering wheel will not even turn. I try different approaches for about an hour with no luck. I then break the key in half. I have both halves and the next day proceed to go to the locksmith. He makes me a key and the key opens the doors, the trunk and the glove compartment but still will not turn in the ignition. What is the problem? Is it the ignition or is it the locked steering wheel? What could it be? Help, before I lose my faith in Mercedes!!

[Edited by mooch2 on 12-26-2000 at 06:26 PM]
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2000, 08:03 PM
Deezel
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Have you tried jiggling the steering wheel while turning the key? I would guess yes. I think you have a failed tumbler which must be removed by cutting out the steering lock. I think this takes about four shop hours. Maybe the locksmith can tickle the tumblers and get it turned. If so, go straight to a shop and DO NOT TURN IT OFF! If it is anything like the W123's W124's, it must be in the "1" position to remove.

I hope someone else has a better idea than this. Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 12-27-2000, 10:04 AM
mooch2
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How much should everything cost?
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  #4  
Old 12-27-2000, 11:44 PM
dlswnfrd
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A Locksmith?

Mooch2, pardon me but I wasn't aware you could get a MB Ignition Key from anywhere except MB and it takes weeks and weeks to get it. If I'm wrong, shame on me. My w124030 Benz has a key system that protects itself. With mine I have the key with the red dot that operates all locks and arms the burglar alarm and the plain key(I call it the dumby key) that opens the doors and operates the ignition switch, provided the door was locked by the dumby key. If locked by red dot and opened with dumby the alarm sounds. So much for owner manual 101. Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.

Donald.
I use the Red Dot
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2000, 06:50 AM
Deezel
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There are several posts on this subject. You may want to do a search. Tumbler/key combo is between $75/100. Complete steering column lock and electric ignition switch ran around another $100 for a '87 300TD. These are dealer prices in Atlanta. I agree with Donald on the key issue!
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2000, 10:16 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
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I had this happen to me in an old 190d, and while this is not a long term cure, maybe it will help in the shortrun. Try pushing the key in all the way, then pull back very slighly(1/16 of an inch???)and turn. Hope this helps.
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  #7  
Old 12-28-2000, 11:33 PM
dlswnfrd
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U Likum, Huh?

BIGBENZMAN,I'm thankful I've yet to have an ignition switch problem. When I said you likum, I was referancing the 300Es. I quoted an article from "The Automobile" Magazine of 1999, I can't recall the thread. They state that the W124030 is unqualified the best used car on the market. I got 1-2. Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.

Donald
Yippee the 300E
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2000, 01:11 AM
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Most likely its GOING TO BE A ***** TO FIX My fathers 300 SD did the same thing about a month ago. He tried cutting it with every damn bit and dremel moto dool device he had. It didn't move a bit. Don't bother trying yourself. We just paid a locksmith 155$ for about 3 hours of work and he did it. The guy's quoted Mercedes, BMW and Volvo locks as the "Fort Knox" of cars.
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2000, 10:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
Posts: 521
CapAlex300e,

How did your locksmith remove the ignition switch?

I wonder if one can drill the ignition switch to get it unlocked. I think if there is a right template for drilling, in theory, it is doable.


David
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2000, 11:43 PM
dlswnfrd
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Long Wires for ignition removal

Help me, but if I understand the problem, it's to remove the ignition switch? I believe it requires two long, small diameter wires. They are available from IMPCO, http://www.************************ or 1-800-243-1220. Cat.124E-6, page 54, wire release #58-045 $14.00EA. It requires 1 or more. I hope this helps. Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.

Donald.
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2000, 11:57 PM
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The Locksmith had to remove the sterring column, remove the Speedo/Odometer and Tach display and then he got to the tumbler, and assembly. That was removed and replaced. Total parts cost was about 250$. NOTHING can drill through the area where the Key fits in. NOTHING
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"Damn the torpedos, four bells full speed ahead"
-Admiral Farragut




-1987 300E Smoke Silver
-1997 S320 Black on Black
-Soon To be E55 AMG
-27 foot Grady White Offshore Sportfish.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2000, 11:59 PM
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AS the Locksmith put it. Damn Nazi engineering, "you know where they lerned how to make such great metals right? : you know from all those guns and cannons they made"
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"Damn the torpedos, four bells full speed ahead"
-Admiral Farragut




-1987 300E Smoke Silver
-1997 S320 Black on Black
-Soon To be E55 AMG
-27 foot Grady White Offshore Sportfish.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2000, 12:04 AM
dlswnfrd
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Wrong Benz

That info I posted is for W124 chassis. Sorry about that.

Donald.
I'm just an old Buttinski
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2000, 03:03 AM
unkl300d's Avatar
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Hey mooch2, some member posted success with a dremel not too long ago. Look it up.
By the way try inserting the key and point the
front end slightly downward and gently but firmly
try to turn it. Also jiggle the steering wheel.
Don't try stuff with too much muscle. Finesse goes a long way sometimes.
post your results!
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2000, 11:36 AM
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Location: Gainesville FL
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I have always had the worst time with keys. If they don't work I only make them worse. My German partner on the other hand takes half of those cases and gets them to turn one more time. Getting them to turn one more time makes replacement simple with the tools mentioned above.

I am not as familiar with the 201 chassis steering lock as I haven't actually done that kind of work since before they were born (or at least since before they started to break). On other cars such as the 126/123 chassis we would drill the pin that must be pushed to remove the steering lock from the column. It is the only metal that is soft enough to drill. Once off the column (but still held by the wiring), we used a carbide wheel to make three small slices to cut the screws that hold the electrical switch to the rear. This allowed the thing to be put in a vice for further slicing. Through the years we have come to the conclusion that both the steering lock and tumbler should be replaced so we now just throw the whole thing out once removed.

As to the locksmiths who drill the thing apart. I have a three page document out of a locksmith manual that describes the procedure (we have never been successful trying it, but haven't tried more than once or twice). The concept is to drill through the open key slot with a small enough drill to pass through. The idea is to open a cavity below the pin that can't be depressed (until the lock tumbler is in the proper position). The only possible way to do this would be to have new parts in hand and visualize this exact place (and visualize what you are trying to achieve).
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