I purchase a guide jaw for the rear LH window regulator. The one that was in the car was broken i.e. the gray plastic that holds the cables and attches to the metal piece was in pieces. The guide jaw does not look like the one that was in there, with the exception of the square white piece that fits into the bottom of the window. On the new one there isn't any place to hold the cables and the cables are too long. Can someone explain to me how to install the guide jaw and adjust the cable to the correct length. Thanks

Jim,
The problem with mine was the guide jaw cracked and released the cable. I have read of other's success in finding the correct replacement part (just the guide jaw), but I was not that lucky, despite much net surfing and calling. I resolved the problem by using 2 part epoxy to glue the guide jaw back together, reinforced with a thick, liberal outside coat of JB Weld everywhere that would not interefere with the part's function. The reinforcing material covered almost all of both the plastic and metal parts of the jaw. I think I used two coats of the JB Weld.

As I recall, I loosened one of the bolts to relieve the cable tension while I did all that. I clamped the jaw to the guide rail to hold it together while the mess dried. I used plastic food wrap to ensure the jaw did not stick to the guide rail and masking tape to shield the cable. I then used a small, fine tooth file to smooth and clean up the part. It will need to cure fully because it must withstand a lot of stress. The entire torque of the window motor is applied to this part to hold the glass closed against the window frame. Be sure to lube the part with a good silicone slide grease when you reassemble, to minimize stress on the part. It took two tries to figure this out, but the second time has held ever since, although I must admit, I avoid using that window due to a lack of confidence.

Gather your patience because all this glueing and fussing around takes days to dry.

If this fix sounds improbable, realize you have nothing to lose. It will work or not. Purchasing the entire window regulator is quite expensive, well over $200.00 the last time I checked, more if it includes the motor. When I tried, I could not find the entire assembly in stock anywhere, regardless of cost. I came up with this fix before I could find a regulator assembly to purchase. Also, note this is a bad part to acquire from a junkyard because the plastic part of the jaw becomes brittle with age and they all suffer the same fate.

Best of luck Jim,
Darrell

I had thought of doing that maybe I'll give it a try. The problem is that mine is broken in three places and its at the stress points. I have used JB weld for other parts and it works great. Thanks for the reply. Jim Imrie

I purchased the same part for the right rear door window on my 1992 190E at a local Mercedes-Benz dealership. The new part looked similar to the old one, but I couldn't see how it fastened to the cable. The parts girl was clueless. With both the old and new parts in hand, I asked a service writer to explain how the new regulator guide jaw fastened to the cable. After he talked with numerous mechanics and the parts manager, they determined that there's no way it can fasten to the cable. It is not a revised or superceded part, it is the wrong part. The correct part is not available. They said you have to buy the complete regulator assembly.

After looking online at many pictures of regulator assemblles for different models of Mercedes, this part is probably for the front door regulator only, as the cable style regulator is used only on the rear doors. The part descriptions shown by all of the online parts vendors that I could find, including Fastlane are not clear as to which door this part fits or doesn't fit. They just show a regulator guide jaw for most models, which makes one think the part fits all four windows. The pictures they are showing of this part are identical to the part Mercedes tried to sell me.

Even if one had the same model/series parts car to cannibalize the part from, it's about impossible to remove the guide jaw from the metal track that it rides on without breaking the small grooved tab that holds it on the track. If one was lucky enough to get it off intact, they'd probably break it when putting it back on. This part is very brittle and is designed to fail. I'll add this one to my long list of automovtive scam designs where some 5 dollar part fails and you have to buy a complete assembly priced between $170 and $300 to fix the problem.

"I'll add this one to my long list of automovtive scam designs where some 5 dollar part fails and you have to buy a complete assembly priced between $170 and $300 to fix the problem."

Have just experienced the same problem on a 190e

Rear passenger window was making an awful clunk when reaching the top/closed position.
Removed the door panel to find that the grey plastic guide jaw was unseated from the metal lifter track. Tried to push it back on but the small grooved tab [that's meant to hold it on the track] broke off!

__________________
Neil.


1991 190E 2.6 170k
1995 E320CA 57k
1999 Chevy Tahoe 98k
2000 R1150GS 45k
1983 300CD 178k - sold, but not forgotten

It's a bad design that was continued on the W210 cars. I don't know if the W211's share this trait. It helps MB and the part vendor fill their pockets with money taken from yours and mine. Mark