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  #1  
Old 06-29-2005, 04:16 PM
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560SL subframe bushing R&R

So I'm checking the undercarriage during an oil change and I see the subframe bushings are starting to look ragged. I went to loosen the large bolt going through the center of the bushing to see how hard/easy it would be to do the replacement and the thing won't budge. I didn't lean into it as hard as I could for fear of breaking something if I was missing a step or doing something wrong. Are these things usually that tough to loosen or is there a secret I'm not privy to?

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1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:00 PM
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Hello? Anybody out there?
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1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2005, 05:37 PM
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RJK:

The bolts should be tight, but not that tight, so I'm guessing they have just become frozen with rust and corrosion, like most old bolts that are seldom touched. Try generous applications of a liquid wrench-style of penetrating oil, let it sit a bit, douse it again, and whack the end of the bolt with a hammer to jar the crust loose.

By the way, search this site for tons of info on changing out these bushings. You will save yourself much time and grief.

230/8
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2005, 09:05 PM
2002 E320 4matic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
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560sl

Those cars are beautiful. My father in law had a 87 he recently sold. Too bad. I wanted it but he said it needed too much work. The subframe bolts should be very tight. If you're not entirely sure of what you are doing, drive it to a shop before it has to be towed there.
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2005, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230/8
RJK:

Try generous applications of a liquid wrench-style of penetrating oil, let it sit a bit, douse it again, and whack the end of the bolt....

230/8
Even the best liquid wrench penetrating oil takes time to work. I always prepare stuff I know will be bad the night before I do the work and really let it soak in. I've rarely had a problem the next day (actually removed 3 out of 4 19 year old muffler bolts intact tonight, no rounding even!!!).
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  #6  
Old 07-02-2005, 08:09 PM
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I just did mine

I just finished a complete front end rebuild myself in my garage with only hand tools, and did the front subframe mounts when I was in there. The bolts were not too tight or hard to loosen. If I remember correctly, the torque spec is only about 45 ft/lbs. (can't remember the n/m spec). Good luck!
--Jay
'82 380 SHell

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