A bar is about 14.5 psi, almost one atmosphere.

Yes, the heating of the air due to compression will increase the pressure by more than just the compression ratio. This will also occur in a gas engine, but to a lesser extent. I would guess that the cold test pressure would be less than the published hot values, but I do not know how much compressing the air in a cold engine would heat it. I think we need the specific compression test specs for this engine.

I was just trying to explain how the pressure rise in the cylinder could be greater than the compression ratio (which is just the ratio of volume).

The reason I checked the compression and started all of this discussion was the number 1 cylinder is not firing. I am getting unburnt fuel out the tailpipe and it is running poorly. I have replaced the head gasket and am thinking it may be a timing issue. I had a small compression leak on # 6 cylinder.

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If you're not inclined to do a leakdown test, can you characterize the compression test? How many strokes to reach max psi for each cylinder? If #1 is leaking then presumably it'll take more strokes to get to max psi. But that's a goofy way to do it. Do a leakdown test. Doesn't your compression tester have a fitting you can hook up to a shop compressor?

Before that, swap #1 injector with another cylinder. Does the problem shift to the other cylinder?

You can eyeball IP timing. Read the crank pulley timing mark when the IP timing lug is visible through the IP locking tool port. A mirror and small flashlight will help.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Next step is to do a leak down test. Have checked the IP timing and it is set at 15 degrees ATDC by lining up through site opening.

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Also I did switch injectors and no difference.

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THINK for a few minutes guys! A diesel engine is COMPRESSION IGNITION--which means the air in the cylinder HAS to be REAL HOT to ignite the atomized fuel. With a '21:1' compression ratio, I would expect peak temp of around 800F.

What happens: if measured compression pressure is LOWER, then the air is not as HOT and fuel spray may not ignite. MB uses the 'glow-plugs', which run very hot to ensure ignition.

A miss-fire may be cause by a dead glow-plug-along with poor injector spray pattern and/or low compression. Sometimes the injector nozzle gets plugged and it shoots out a solid stream of fuel--which is almost impossible to ignite--or doesn't fire until you get to higher RPM, or fires 'late' and knocks real hard (nailing its called). The injector nozzle pintle has a very tiny hole lengthwise, intersecting with an extremely small cross passage, and this greates the very fine 'fog' that is necessary for good ignition. Rebuilt injectors from Dealer and +/$60 or so. DO NOT remove them and then try and clean them yourself--you will destroy them.

it will affect all cylinders the same. so a miss on #1 could not be because of timeing problems.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

ambient air pressure at sea level (14.5 Pounds Per Square Inch)

is 24 to 30 bar then that is about 360 to 440 psi, right? yes, i guess that is what several said earlier. so now i need to ask my indy if he checked my compression on the sdl cold or at 80 degrees.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

How do you check compression with the engine at operating temperature uniformly throughout the test? In the time it takes to pull the injectors and take 6 readings the temperature would have dropped significantly. Probably risen some unknown amount then dropped some unknown amount :/

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

you can clean them, I would clean mine every couple of years and never put new ones( I had the car 14 years) in, sold it with 250000 still ran like when I got it. Keep a eye on timing chain as mb sell offset timing keys to keep the timing right and keep the valves adjusted

I tested the compression on a cold motor.

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i looked in my old chiltons from 1970. curious. the compression for a 200/220 is 21 to one. psi is listed from 284 to 327. so not saying anything, i assume that this is a cold test. and apparently the heat thing increasing the psi may have a critical point where it increases the pressure dramatically since the warm 80 degree test for the 603 with a mechanical ratio of 22 to one is 343 to 400 something.

additional food for thought.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

in my MOTOR imported repair manual from 1981 for compression specs. it says for any mercedes from 72 to 81 the cranking compression should be 313 to 331 with a minimum of 213 psi. now were up to the years for 21.5 to one compression ratio.

i thought of another reason for higher cranking pressure for the newer motors... better rings and better metal.

more food for thought.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.