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  #1  
Old 04-03-2001, 06:10 PM
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Does anyone have any experience using camber bolts to adjust camber on a 210 chassis?
PBALIAS, I'd be interested in hearing more about those camber bolts you made.
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  #2  
Old 04-03-2001, 07:16 PM
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Mikey...

On my 124 chasis, there are no stock rear camber adjustments. I had to fabricate them myself, then slot the hole they go into in order for the control arms to adjust. I took a flat washer and drilled a hole at one end. Then I inserted the stock bolt in the new hole and welded it in place. This created an offset washer on the head of the bolt, like a cam. Now, when you turn the bolt, it pulls the control arm in or out. It's a little more involved than that, but thats just a short version. If you are realllllly interested I'll send you step by step instructions.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 04-03-2001, 07:30 PM
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Thanks

Did you have a similar problem with the front camber? Or is your adjustable? I think your description leaves me a pretty good picture of what's involved. Why not just buy a set? Because of the price I'm guessing?

Thanks again.
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2001, 02:00 PM
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Mikey...

Front is adjustable, like it is on almost all cars. Rear is adjustable on almost all cars too except MB, dont ask me why. The only camber adjustment set I found was from some off the wall company for almost 400 bucks. No thanks, that 400 needs to go towards somethnig else!

PEter
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2001, 02:04 PM
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Unfortunately, it appears that for 2001, the W210 chassis no longer has adjustment capabilities for the front camber. Oh well.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2001, 12:10 AM
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The front camber is adjustable as it has always been on the 210 chassis, just not in the conventional manner. Instead of the typical eccentric caged washers as in the past, it is now done with camber bolts. There are only 3 different positions the camber adjustment bolts go in, either in a center position, or they are removed and installed into the positive or negative position. I'm sorry I can't remember the degree change between the positive and negative versus the central position. If I remember correctly the bolts that are adjustable are not installed at the factory, you need to buy the adjustment bolts as a repair item. I am suspicious that the info about the rear not being adjustable at all is incorrect, but I'm not sure, I don't do alignment work as a rule, but now that MB is "forcing" a new alignment rack at us, it sounds like we will all need to be trained by the factory to do alignments, so I may get more experience in this area soon....Gilly
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2001, 01:04 AM
Jason M.
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Gilly,

Its true that on the W124 the rear camber is not adjustable in a factory sense. There is a rear tierod that allows adjusting Toe, but the camber arm is solid. There are a few camber kits available, but most are between 300-600 dollars which is a bit pricey for most of us.

Jason M.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2001, 08:43 AM
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Jason......

I was referring to the Question Mikey originally posted. It seemed to drift off into a rear 124 post, when the question at hand is front 210 chassis camber adjustment, which is a very different animal. Ya gotta have a pair of front camber adjustment "repair bolts" to adjust front camber on a 210, always have, and it hasn't changed for 2001 as Mikey stated in his most recent post. At least you have for the past several years, I BELIEVE it was this way ever since 96, can't absolutely swear to it, I could know by tonight though......Gilly
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2001, 09:46 AM
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If the rear needs a camber alignment then the adjustable camber link would be the prefered method. Installation would be an easy DIY job with alignment afterwards.

The method of ovaling the subframe holes would cost just as much if done by a professional and result in a much less strong platform and a narrower track width.

Since the normal reason for doing any of this is big tires and lowered, stiffer suspension, weakening the attachment point would not be a performance upgrade.
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2001, 02:04 PM
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Gilly

Any chance you've run across the numbers on how much those factory camber adjustment bolts change the front camber?

Also, any ideas on whether the rears are adjustable?
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  #11  
Old 04-06-2001, 09:28 PM
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Mikey: I can sure check for you on Monday. For some reason +- 3 degrees come to mind, I wouldn't swear to it though. I'll check. I'll also try to remember to get the part number and rough idea on price on the bolt kits, you'll need 2 of them.....Gilly
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2001, 11:41 AM
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The MB camber bolts for 210 (and others) front ends give about .75 deg change (if I remember correctly).

It may take both bolts on one control arm set one way to get that much change. It is a distinct reduction in alignment capability that really ticks me off. The alignability of MB cars has always been one of their major design features to me.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2001, 09:12 PM
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Stevebfl...

I agree with you on the perfered method of the camber link. I ovalled the sub frame and it brought my rear camber in from -2.9 deg to -.09, which I liked. But then I noticed my rear tow was set to a whopping +1.9 deg. I tried to compensate for it by adjusting the tow adjustment, but even bringing it all the way in still kept tow at about +1.0. This is still WAY to high. I prefer rear tow at
-0.05. Anyway, to make a long story short, I'm in the market now to find the kit to do this the "right" way. Any suggestions anyone where I can find it??? Thanks for yall's help!

Peter
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2001, 10:10 PM
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Mikey

Mikey: Well, I was "close", in a sense, it is adjustable plus or minus 3MM, not degrees. MB also states this in terms of MINUTES, 3MM equals 20'. According to the info I have, 10' equals .6 degrees, so the "Final Answer" is the adjustability of the front camber is plus or minus 1.2 degrees. Ain't figuring out MB front geometry FUN? The part number for the front camber adjustment bolt kit is 202-330-01-18, retail price where I work is about 6 bucks, you'll need one for each side. The rear is adjustable for toe-in only on a 210, at least per MB.....Gilly
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2001, 11:40 AM
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Just one?

Thanks for the valuable info Gilly, but won't I need two bolts per side for the front?

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