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  #1  
Old 06-10-2001, 05:20 PM
vadrill
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I've searched most applicable threads and haven't found a problem that mirrors this problem exactly. My 1985 190e 2.3 hesitates upon acceleration after driving for about 20 minutes. The key is, that it runs fine up until this point. The idle speed seems to drop prior to these systoms occuring.

This just started about 2 months ago. It gets worse with the A/C on. I have to pump on the accelerator to get it to begin to move. After it gets up to around 5 miles per hour it runs just fine. It's getting annoying.

I just had the car tuned up along with a total fuel injection system cleaning by a mechanic. This did not cure the problem.

Also is there an idle adjustment on this car?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Brian
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2001, 01:40 PM
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Since you haven't gotten any replies, I assume that none of the traditional solutions would solve your problem, so I'll give it a stab...I am going back to experiences I've had with some non-MBs I've owned.

I don't really know, but is yours carbureted or fuel injected? If carbureted, it might be a bad accelerator diaphram...if FI, then maybe a bad injector.

You may even have a dirty fuel filter.

Have you checked your spark plug wires and your ignition coil(s)?

I had a Mazda that did just that, and it turned out to be a cracked air diaphram...are your intakes solid, i.e., no cracks, leaks etc.

I had a Z-24 with a bad air flow meter that would not maintain an idle until that was replaced.

Just a start...hope you pinpoint the problem soon!
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2001, 02:04 PM
vadrill
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G-Benz thanks for your reply. It is Fuel injected. The plugs and wire were just replaced. I will check some of the other items you described.

Agian, thanks

Brian
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  #4  
Old 06-13-2001, 01:38 PM
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Location: Youngstown, OH
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Was the O2 sensor changed and/or the CO checked or set? A malfunctioning O2 sensor may not show until the car is warm.

Intruder
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  #5  
Old 06-13-2001, 01:46 PM
vadrill
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Thanks Intruder. Is the CO sensor located near the catalytic convertor, and upon removal can you visually determine whether or not it has gone bad.

Thanks,

Brian
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2001, 03:22 PM
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The O2 sensor is actually closer to the muffler, actually just in front of it between the body and the chassis.

It is an electrical unit, so you cannot tell by looking. Considering its general location, it will be fairly dirty anyway. There are electrical resistance tests that can be performed to determine whether it's good or bad, but one of the techs in this forum would have to give you the details on that.

The "quick and dirty" way (my favorite) is to disconnect it and test drive it to see what kind of behavior your car is exhibiting. It's a not a cheap item, nor is it expensive, so I wouldn't just change it out for grins. If the quick and dirty way gets improved performance, then I would further inverstigate with the electrical tests to be absolutely sure.
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2001, 03:37 PM
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Hi
I have had the same problems on my 1988 300e. I had several mechanics look at this problem, without succes. That experience was a little costly. With the help of readers of this forum I did several checks from their suggestions.In my case the problem was the temperature sensor contacts, I cleaned the contacts and the problem dissappeared right away. My cost was only a couple of dirty towels.

I hope this will help you. Keep us informed.
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2001, 03:59 PM
vadrill
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Great advice folks. One last question. Where is the temperature sensor? My manual is rather sketchy with it's details.

Again, Thank you

Brian
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2001, 04:20 PM
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Hi Brian,

If you are facing the engine it is behind the air filter near the dash console towards the center. It is a round shape and you just pull on it. I will try to scan the manual and send you a photo. Don't forget mine was a 1988 300e. Did you have a type of sling shot effect, by that I mean when you press on the accellerator the car hesitates fo a second or so, and the all of a sudden the car moves forward like as if a rubber band was holding you back and then it snaps.
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2001, 04:48 PM
vadrill
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Damico and everyone else, Thanks very much for the help. I'm going to check out some of these recommendations.


Again, Thank you

Brian
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  #11  
Old 06-14-2001, 10:11 AM
vadrill
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Disconnected the O2 sensor and the performance seemed to be the same as before.

Damico, The sling-shot effect you described nailed it right on the head! That's exactly what my car is doing! It only starts doing it after I've driven in excess of 10 minutes. I'm still trying to locate the temperature sensor on my car.

Thanks,

Brian



1985 190e
1990 BMW 325i
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2001, 02:39 PM
vadrill
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I believe the problem has been solved. Checked all the vacuum hoses around the fuel injection system and there was a small leak due to a split in the rubber on the air breather vacuum hose that connects from the valve cover to the bottom of the air cleaner (The split was on the end that goes into the valve cover).

Replaced the hose and the car seems to run better. No longer hesitates upon accelaration.

Since the hesitation wouldn't occur until after driving for a little while, my theory is that the cracked hose would slowly loose its vacuum capablities and cause the low idle/hesitation problems.

Thanks everyone for your help!

Brian
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  #13  
Old 06-17-2001, 04:36 PM
Clauser1
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Hesitation:

Thanks, Brian for sharing as
the fix of your problem.
I'm sure we,190e owner will
be aware of what to look for
when we encounter the same problem.

Clauser1
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