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  #31  
Old 06-21-2001, 02:28 AM
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Dave,

The proper way of testing is with the wheel on. You cannot test with the wheel off because the only thing holding the rotor is the small allen bolt. This could explain the small play that you felt. What you do is:

1. Jack up one side of the car
2. Grab the wheel horizontally and try moving it side to side (this is to test tie rods there shouldn't be any play if there is you need to change tie rods or drag link).
3. Grab the wheel vertically and move up and down. This is to test wheel bearing. If you have slight play you need to retorque the wheel bearing).
4. Repeat procedure on other side. Make sure to do one at a time. In other words one wheel has to be on the ground.


Checking ball joints requires some kind of bar and it gets a little more complicated because there is tension from spring. Better leave that for your mechanic. He can check it in about five minutes.

However, I am still leaning toward the upper ball joint. It's very simple to check. Have your mechanic disconnect the upper control arm and check the ball joint by moving it around. If it's dry, have it replaced. Your mechanic probably won't have the patience of trying to grease it up, since it's a sealed unit.

I think it's pretty safe to travel with the car. Just get it checked as soon as you get back.

Vinamg


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  #32  
Old 07-03-2001, 12:44 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Alright, I finally got around to jacking up the front left of the car (driver's side) and there was a little bit of play when grabbing the wheel and pulling/pushing it on one end.
Also, the squeeking has gotten quite a bit worse... when the car is warm and/or has been driven quite a bit then the squeak gets terribly loud and embarrassing!
I am going to let it get just a little bit worse before I take it in to get checked out again. I will have him check the wheel bearing and the upperball joint.
Also, which of the two aforementioned problems seems more likely to cause a vibrating steering wheel? It has gotten pretty bad and vibrating steering wheels drive me nuts. It's only when driving over 50 mph. I recently had a balancing, so I have ruled that out. It's getting progressively worse... and really annoying the crap out of me!
Also, what is a rough estimate on the repair for the upper balljoint or the front wheel bearing? THanks guys.
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
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2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #33  
Old 07-03-2001, 02:09 AM
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Dave,

Have the mechanic retorque your front wheel bearings. That should take car of the shimmy. Also, check the tie rods by grabbing wheel horizontally and moving left to right.
If the squeak is from the upper ball joint you'll have to replace the upper control arm. This job shouldn't take more than half an hour.

Vinamg
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2001, 06:49 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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No more noise?!

Well the weirdest thing happened recently.... ever since my camping trip (see post in Open Discussion "Who says a Mercedes can't off-road?") the squeeking noise disappeared, all together... have not heard it since. Though the steering wheel vibration was still there, so today (3 days after camping), I had the tires rotated, well that cured the vibration completely. So the steering wheel vibration was caused by the tires, and the squeaking? Geez, I have no clue.
The car did get VERY dirty (for pix see post!) with tons of mud and the like. But I washed and sprayed everything thoroughly the day I got back. I then, on Tuesday, took the car to the self-car wash, and sprayed all the crevices, the wheel wells, and underside of the car thoroughly to rid what mud/dirt was still stuck.
Well, I guess my problem is solved (*knock on wood* ZEBRANO of course!). Thanks for everyone's help, I truly appreciate it.
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #35  
Old 06-18-2002, 06:25 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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Help--- Squeaking on right side

Well now it started sqeaking on front passenger side. I found the problem to be the upeer control arm bushings. They really look bad and I pinpointed the noise in those bushings while my brother shook the car.
My q is how difficult is it to change the upper conrol arm bushings.

Does any one have the steps for it. Please

MVK
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  #36  
Old 06-18-2002, 06:33 PM
TANK
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I had worn rear bshings and they were not much money to have a GOOD dealer "alternative" mercedes mechanic fix them. Maybe try getting a quote...
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  #37  
Old 07-06-2002, 05:01 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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David C Klasse
I had the same problem and went crazy looking for the cause. Replaced the front upper control arm bushings . Improved the ride but squeaking stayed.
Today I found out the problem its the lower ball joint on both side front. Rubber boot was cracked and so lube must have dried . Sprayed lithium grease with a thin nozzle in there. WOW problem gone no squeak at all. Now when I am ready I will replace those big budget lower ball joints. Ball joints are 16 bucks each bu labor is a killer about 350 to 400 bucks total.

MVK
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  #38  
Old 07-06-2002, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Atlanta, GA
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-fad...

You were going to give your car away over a little squeak?!

Next time your car gets a squeak, drop me a line! I'll take it!

mike
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