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#1
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Some questions after searching the archives on
w124 instrument cluster removal: 1) How many clips are there holding the fascia in place. Are there 2? One at the top left and one at the top right? 2) Does the speedometer cable need to be disconnected from the transmission? 3) I ordered the tool kit from Baum Tools for the cluster removal. As such, do I still need to get my hand behind the cluster to push it out? Any other tips about removal appreciated. I'm chasing down a rattle noise. Might as well replace the bulbs while I'm in there. Thanks guys, Jeff
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- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
#2
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Comes out from inside the car. Two hooks do the job. Disconnect speedo cable from tranny to give you enough slack to get it out far enough the disconnect cable from speedo head. You do not have to get behind it to releas it from the dash, other than removing the speedo cable..
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Jeff Lawrence 1989 300e 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix.. "Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable. |
#3
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Use Your Widdle Fingers
Brother of The Benz, atombaum
Removing the instrument cluster is a piece of cake. There are no clips holding the cluster inplace, just good fit. The removal tool is just two lengths of 0.045 inch wire with a small hook at the end. These are inserted at the top, turned 90 degrees and pull. I've always used my fingers appling pressure at the top and pulling. The speedometer cable does not need to be disconnected from the transmission. You will have to pull some slack to get the cluster out far enough to reach the speedometer cable at the speedometer. There is an amphenol plug and the econometer hose to be unplugged. Ease the cluster out and past the steering wheel and that's it. As for the bulbs, there is a red capped bulb at the lower row of the cluster. This ain't no bulb but a fuse. I modified my holder by solderring a twin lead to the sides of the fuse holder and routing the wire back and behind the insulation under the floor mat and soldered a mini-fuse at the end. Now if the fuse should fail I won't have to remove the instrument cluster to replace it, just lift the floor padding. Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!! |
#4
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w124 instrument cluster removal (toolkit)
Hi,
Thanks for the earlier responses on the removal of the instrument cluster on my 1989 w124 260E. I received the dashboard service kit today and I need to know what all the tools do! The kit came with 4 pairs of different tools. See the image of the kit here: ![]() I think that items 5 and 6 are used at the top right and top left corners to push the clips away from the cluster. I would like to know what the other tools do. Thank you, Jeff [Edited by atombaum on 07-03-2001 at 01:52 PM]
__________________
- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
#5
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From MB manual:
1. Remove speedometer cable from clips on cover under instrument panel, so that the cable can come along when the instrument cluster is pulled out. 2. Carefully introduce the pulling hook between padding and instrument cluster above vertical edge on instrument cluster and rotate. Pull out hook until it rests against detent. 3. Pull instrument cluster uniformly out on both sides, making sure that the speedometer cable slips into recess of cover for brake pedal, so that adequate length for removal is available. 4. Unscrew speedometer cable on speedometer and unplug wires. Good luck Paul |
#6
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Some of the tools, long wires are for ingition switch, others for releasing trim pieces, the hooks are what you are looking to use.
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Jeff Lawrence 1989 300e 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix.. "Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable. |
#7
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w124 instrument cluster removal
I hate to say it, but I just tried to remove the cluster,
and I had no luck. I would begin pulling with the hooks in place but the hooks kept slipping out. Fortunately, nothing was broken or scratched. Any other tips, for example, the EXACT position of the hooks when pulling it out? How about tips on technique? I am a weekend mechanic at best. I was trying to pull mainly from the lower portion of the vertical sides, where there is a wider gap. It came out maybe 10mm, then would not come any farther before the hooks slipped. Jeff
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- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
#8
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Try to get in at about 3:00 o'clock and 9:00 o'clock. Please (even though no one might agree) disconnect the speedo at the tranny and loosen the cable up as much as you can so you don't put a bend in it. Get tho hooks into those positions and exert a steady even pull. If the cluster has never been removed, it will not want to come easily. Be patient and you will get it free.
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Jeff Lawrence 1989 300e 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix.. "Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable. |
#9
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OK, I will try the 9 o-clock and 3 o-clock positions and
disconnect the cable. It has been removed before, but always by the dealer (since I got it 2 years ago). I will need more time to do the cable removal so I'll probably try again at the weekend. Thanks for the help. Jeff
__________________
- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
#10
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The diagram in the MB manual shows the person pulling from the left side corner, mid way up, where it starts to curve to the right.
I would pull there, and the opposite side, same place. Good luck |
#11
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Take my advise or you'll probably be buying a new facia. Remove the bottom cover from the left side of the dash and push the cluster out from the bottom.. The tools you displayed are the V shaped and the straight with the loops are for ignition tumbler removal. The T handles are for assisting removal of the instrument cluster. The other two are for radio and climate control push button removal.
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#12
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Got it out, no problems.
See this link for image of cluster and brief description on how I got it out. ![]() Thanks for the help, Jeff [Edited by atombaum on 07-03-2001 at 01:53 PM]
__________________
- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
#13
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atomBOOOOM!
Brother of The Benz, autobaum
It's such a joy to read where a fellow Benz owner has learned from forum replies. Your photo is excellent; it is as I suggested, but now I use finger pressure alone. Does your cluster have the red capped bulb? Good luck with your next project. Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!! |
#14
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Two things to add...
#1 - by adding [img.] at the beginning and [/img.] (ignore the periods, had to put them so you could see the code) at the end of your picture links, the picture will show in your post. Kinda nice to be able to make reference to your pics while reading the post
![]() #2 - the reason behind disconnecting the speedo cable to twofold. It creates more slack, allowing the cluster to come out further for disconnecting the cable and wire connections. Secondly, if you over stress or stretch the cable, the speedo needle may begin jumping at low speeds or may not work at all.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP ![]() Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#15
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No, I did not see the red capped "bulb" (fuse).
Which brings me to make an observation. In trying to get help for this procedure, I heard a few different cluster descriptions as though they were different depending on year and possibly even model (260E v. 300E). I had heard from a friend off this list that there were supposed to be clips that the puller tool engaged and then released. I had no such clips. I was manily trying to track down a rattle noise. I did not see anything in particular but made sure connectors were tight. On the test drive, no rattle, but that was the nature of this annoying thing. It did not always do it. At least now I know how to change bulbs. ![]() - Jeff
__________________
- Jeff 1957 W121 190 (history) 1966 W108 250S 1967 W108 250S (parts) 1982 W123 240D (history) 1989 W124 260E |
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