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  #1  
Old 07-06-2001, 02:41 PM
jwiles
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I'm a brand new MB owner who just purchased a 1994 E320 wagon (Incredible car so far!). I like to do my own oil changes about every 3000 miles. Here's my question.

The MB oil filter wrench that I just purchased from a local auto parts dealer is an interesting tool. I just want to be sure that I use it correctly. There are 2 bolts in the top of it which I assume is simply where they are stored until needed. There are two threaded holes on the sides of the wrench which is where I assume one of both of these bolts should be used to hold the tool to the top of the filter housing while using a socket&wrench to loosen the top.

If that's how it's used, should I use one or both bolts, and how tightly should they be tightened onto the housing before using the socket wrench? Also, how tightly should the housing be reinstalled (by hand, or also using the tool/socket/wrench to re-tighten the housing cap).

I did a search on the extensive amount of incredibly valuable information on this site and didn't see anything about how to properly use this tool.

Thanks in advance.

Jack Wiles
1994 E320 Wagon 105K
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2001, 04:20 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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get the proper oil filter tool from here or a MB dealer. Then all you have to have is the correct size socket, an extension and a ratchet.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2001, 04:37 PM
jwiles
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I appreciate your reply to my question. I have the MB tool #103 589 02 09 00. My question is "How does it connect to the housing of the oil filter canister cap".

Thanks again.

Jack Wiles

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  #4  
Old 07-06-2001, 05:53 PM
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Opps - sorry bout that - you have the correct tool. The "local auto parts dealer" threw me off. I have the same tool that I use on my '95 E320 and I just put the tool down over the filter housing cover and unscrew it. Prior to reading your post and going to my workshop to get the p/n off of my filter housing tool I had never really noticed the bolts in the top with the bolt holes in the side. I don't use them. Make sure you replace the "o" ring gasket on the filter housing cap and torque it back to the proper setting. Also, remove the drain plug on the oil pan first and then loosen the filter housing cap. Let it drain awhile prior to pulling the filter element out.
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2001, 06:03 PM
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Jack,

Here are some threads for you to look at also...

88 300e oil change

Filter Change Tool for the 3.2L V6^.

Hand tighten Oil Filter?

Hope they help.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2001, 08:37 PM
jwiles
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Thanks very much for the reply's and links. I read every one of them. My sometimes too analytical mind made me keep trying to figure out why those bolts and extra threaded holes were there in the oil filter wrench. I guess that we could send it out as an interesting trivia question for someone. Now that I know that I can just plop it on there and turn, I'm not going to worry about it anymore.

Thanks again.

Jack
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2001, 09:58 PM
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Oil filter special tool bolts

I work at a dealership, I was told the bolts are so the tool can be used to remove non-original oil filters that are smooth (don't have the notches around the top perimeter that the tool holds on to). The cup would be put on the top of the after-market filter, then the bolts tightened onto the filter through the threaded holes. The filter wrench can then be used to unscrew the filter. Wouldn't be a real good idea to put a new after-market filter on in this manner, though. Not all after-market filters are made in this manner, of course. Some have the notches.
I like the BMW filter wrench I bought for doing MB spin-on filters. It was originally purchased to do oil changes on mt K75S motorcycle. It fits the MB spin-ons, the reason I like it is no seperate socket is required, it has a 3/8" drive square hole on top, so only the tool, an extension and ratchet are required. It also has the hex end, so a socket could be also used, say if you have a tough one and want to go up to a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Gilly
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2001, 01:26 AM
jwiles
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Thanks Gilly. You win the prize for solving the puzzle.

BTW - How many models use a spin off filter and not the canister type that I have on the 94/E320? I see a lot of discussion about both. Is the quality of filtration the same? They seem to cost about the same for a new one.

Jack

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  #9  
Old 07-07-2001, 10:00 AM
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Jack:
The tool you have is used on 102 engines and 103 engines (wait, there's more). The 102 engines in the US I believe was only in the 190E 2.3. The very first 190E 2.3's had a very unique canister filter. After the first year or two in the US, it was equipped with the black spin-on. The 103 engine in the US is most famous for being used in 300E until the 104 engine replaced it, although all US 4MATICs used the 103 engine. The 104 engine, as you know, used the spin-on tool to remove the canister cap. In the US, the 104 engine was first used in the 1990 300SL, and also I think it's interesting to note also it was used in the 1990 300CE!
The 103 motor was also used in the 300SE and 300SEL.
The spin-on tool is still used today. It is the tool used on all modern MB engines, although I am not sure about the 137 motor, haven't seen "the whole motor" yet, just critical pieces in school. It's used on the modular V6 and V8 engines (320, 430, 500, 5.5AMG), and in it's "oldest" application, is also used to remove the aluminum housing cap on the 120 V12 engine (600SL), although that engine may now officially be out of production, as I heard the R129 went out of production this spring so the plant can be prepared for the new model.......
Gilly
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2001, 12:41 PM
jwiles
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Final question Gilly:

When replacing the cap after installing the new cartridge (which I assume just goes right into the canister) should the cap be re-tightened using the tool, or like other filters be placed on 'hand tight'? If the tool should be used, how tight should the cap be? I've seen other recommendations on this forum for using a torque wrench on things like the drain plug. I don't have any problem using a torque wrench if you think that it's important.

I'm not being knit-picky with these questions I promise. I just want to learn to do it right the first time and every 3,000 miles thereafter.

Thanks again Gilly,

Jack



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  #11  
Old 07-07-2001, 02:14 PM
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The book calls for 25Nm on the drain plug and the filter cap.
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  #12  
Old 07-08-2001, 12:47 AM
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Jack:
John is right, I forgot about the 111 motor using the filter tool as well. I sort of covered myself by stating "all modern MB engines", but didn't mention the 111 motor, which is the motor in the C220, C230, C230 Kompressor, and SLK230 Kompresor (all US cars, again I know there are world-wide variations on what engine is put into different chassis).
I believe a previous poster stated the correct torque for the cap already, I also believe it is stated on top of the housing cap (cast into the plastic) also.
Happy Moteren
Gilly
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  #13  
Old 07-08-2001, 12:57 AM
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Jack:
Sorry it takes me 2 posts sometimes.
No, the filter element doesn't drop into the housing. The end of the filter with the "blanked off" hole snaps into the filter housing cap, then finesse it into the housing and screw it down. Be sure to replace the large rubber O-ring. I use the ratchet to tighten it. Don't worry, just tighten it. If you already have a torque wrench, go ahead and use it the first few times. I guess what I'm saying is I don't feel it neccesary to use the torque wrench(for the oil filter housing cap), but I've got the "feel" for it now. As a comparison, I always use a torque wrench on wheel bolts, I don't use the impact gun to final-tighten wheel bolts, so I feel I'm fairly picky.
One final note Jack. The engine holds about 7 1/2 quarts of oil, that's alot of oil to hold the dirt and whatever accumulates in the engine, plus it's a good filter. I recommend 5000 miles on the oil change instead of 3000. Just my opinion, again I'm pretty picky myself.
Gilly
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  #14  
Old 07-08-2001, 11:35 AM
jwiles
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Thanks one more time Gilly. Now that you mentioned the oil itself, I'd really like your personal opinion on oil weights for my area of the country.

I'm in the sunny south with summers in the 90's and winters as low as 10 occasionally. Someone recommended 20/50 Castrol for summer and 10/40 Castrol for winter. They also recommended old fashioned oil over synthetic as long as the oil was changed regularly.

I'd highly respect your thoughts. You seem just as picky as I am for wanting to do things the right way.

Jack

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  #15  
Old 07-08-2001, 05:29 PM
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Jack:
Well, we'll probably get a flurry of opinions on this one.
MY opinion on a 104 engine like yours, is to stick with non-synthetic. Synthetic has it's advantages, I'm not knocking it. It is pricey, however, and I feel the benefits don't justify the cost. ESPECIALLY if you plan on using the same change interval as you would with non-synthetic (say 3000 to 5000 miles). MB of course just mandated synthetic oil for 2000 on up cars, where the services are paid for while the car is under warranty, so the synthetic now has the German guys in the white lab coats standing behind it. BUT, the cars are under the FSS system, these cars are going upwards of 10000 miles without a change, but if you realize it's 8 1/2 quarts of synthetic oil, it all seems feasable to me. In that case, I say go for synthetic, 'specially since MB is footing the bill. But yeah, if it were mine (in your case) I'd go for the non-synthetic. I'd recommend Penzoil 10W40 in the summer, and if it gets really COLD in the winter, use 10W-30 in the winter. Here in Wisconsin in the winter I'd use 5W-30. We were running bulk 10W-40 year round up here several years with no oil-related cold weather problems, so the 10W-40 I believe would probably work well for you year-round actually. And don't listen to this BS about "Penzoil being PARAFIN based oil" and all that hoo-ha. It's good stuff. There has been a rash of 112 engine problems all being blamed on FSS, going too long on oil changes, etc (which actually may be why MB now mandates the Mobil1 oil). There are 2 dealerships in our district that aren't having problems with the 112 engine, the one I work at and one other. What do we have in common? We were both using Penzoil 10W-40.......so take that all you Penzoil-parafin poopers. Let the oil debates rage.......
Gilly
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