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  #1  
Old 07-17-2001, 03:24 AM
Ruby Tuesday
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1987 420SEL 226,??? Miles
This really is only a bur in the old saddle but it sure would be good to remove it. Thats the problem, I can`t!! Using the correct size Allen key all it does is spin in either direction which leads me to believe the head is broken from the threaded shaft. Would like to remove the head so access to the remaining shaft could be removed with the assistance of an easy out. I have a new replacement plug
but anticipate additional problems such as stripped threads
in the converter casing and possibly having to go one size up from 5mm. All the while fluid will drain once the passage is clear of the plug. Is there a rubber plug that could be temporarily deployed so that I may have both hands free for scratching my head and preparing my next stratergy.
Have had a complete transmission power flush just over a year ago but would like access to this drain plug for continued sevice. Can`t be sure from exactly where, but there is always A/T fluid in the immediate area and hope that with this corrective action it will be eliminated or at best minimized. Any suggestings, tips, or shared experiences would be most appreciated and shared with future
members.
Thank you for this moment in time
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2001, 09:27 AM
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This may sound like a dumb question. But are you sure that the bolt head itself is spinning, and not the allen key in the hole? I cannot imagine how it could be possible to have *only* the head of the bolt spinning without it becoming detached from the threaded shaft. It seems more likely that the female threads in the converter are stripped & the whole bolt is turning. However in this scenario, I canít imagine that it would hold fluid well enough to allow you to drive it very far. That would account for your leak - however, another thing to know is that the front pump seals are a consistent source of leaks on these transmissions.

If you are planning to use an easy-out and/or rethread the converter, I donít know how you could be absolutely sure to keep *all* the debris out of the converter, which is imperative. Trying to do this may cause you more problems. Although, now that I think about it, you may be able to use a magnet to help localize the shavings, but that is pure speculation, not actual experience speaking. Nothing speaks as strongly as experience. It may just be time to bite the bullet & pull the trans.

RTH
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2001, 11:36 AM
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The torque convertor plug is one piece. Use a 5mm 12 point tool, tap it lightly with a small hammer into the 5mm hole in the plug and back it out. Failing that, an Easy Out may be you next step. Replace the plug when you get it out. DO NOT DRILL IT OUT..You stand a good chance of damaging the torque convertor. If you are patient, you will get it out.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2001, 12:25 PM
Ruby Tuesday
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Re: RTH Re: A/T Converter Plug

RTH I suppose it is possible what you say regarding the plug turning as one complete piece but than there would be considerably more leakage. At this point the residual fluid is more of an annoyance. Though not serious at this time I`m weighing the risk at the removal of the plug to correct the problem once and for all. Before any attempts are begun I`d like to prepare for any and all possible outcomes. I am presently using this as my main squeeze and do have back-up
transportation. Once again on the premise that I am correct about the plug being in two pieces what would you propose?
The total loss of fluid in the past 6 months just about exceeds 1/2 qt. I never would consider drilling without the use of a magnet or some such (vacuum cleaner)to minummize compromising the area in question. I am also counting on a positive flow of fluid from the converter and hope the task can be completed before the converter has emptied!

Again I am thankful for another moment in time.
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2001, 12:44 PM
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Please refer to the above post re the plug for the torque convertor. IF YOU REMOVE THAT PLUG, YOU WILL GET A VERY POSITIVE FLOW OF FLUID.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2001, 02:53 PM
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Like I said, ďNothing speaks as strongly as experienceĒ. Jeffsr has extensive experience & thus has learned more than a few solutions to frustrating problems, hence his suggestion about the 12-point trick.

Thanks Jeffsr, Iíll store that one away in the mental archives for later use.

RTH
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2001, 03:40 PM
Ruby Tuesday
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A/T Converter Plug

The twelve point 5mm tool is a fine idea and I will certainly incorporate it at my next attempt at removal of the plug. As you may or may not know the actual allen plug head is broken from the threaded shaft which presents a new set of problems. My need to remove both pieces is paramount
so that I may drain and renew the A/T fluid for future maintenance. As I have the new replacement plug I can see that it is more than possible for the separation of the head from the threaded shaft. The PO could not have finessed the proper removal and consequently the broken head. My time my problem hopefully a shared resolution.

Thank-you for this moment in time
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2001, 04:04 PM
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Are you saying that the end of the plug is broken or twisted off?? This plug is fairly similar to the drain plug in the pan. I can't imagine how that piece could come to be separated from the threaded portion w/o a lot of torque being applied. If this is true, then someone or you will have to carefully drill a 3/16ths deep hole in the center of the plug and back out what is remainig with an easyout. The 12 point will not work unless you have the 5mm hole available. There is a distinct possibility you may have to remove the tranny and torque convertor to repair this problem..
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2001, 03:25 AM
Ruby Tuesday
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Jeff, the head of the plug is turning in either direction
but will not allow itself to be removed. So my thinking is drilling a hole in the ctr of the plug head while holding it in position and than inserting a screw and using a dent puller (slide hammer)to extract it from it`s position. Drilling a second hole in what remains of the plug (threaded-shaft) and applying the easy out for extraction.
My need to know what is directly behind the converter drain plug is of most importance. This is assuming that a 6:00 o`clock position is correct both for removal of the plug and future fluid changes. Removing the tranny to access the plug via the converter is not a desired option. Under any other circumstances this would probably not be that major
a problem, but because of the location and what could go awry this is somewhat unique. Any feedback, tips or support
have been appreciated and I thank-you kindly.

Again I am thankful for these moments in time
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2001, 07:27 PM
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OK, I think I understand what you have bee describing. It sounds like one of two things have happened. The threads on the plug or the convertor have been stripped, or more likely, depending on ther convertor, there is a welded shoulder inside that the plug threads into. If it's just turning and not coming out, then it is likely that the welded shoulder has broken free of the convertor housing. In either case, I am afraid there is no easy way to fix the problem w/o replacing the convertor, or at least removing it to have the work done. If the threads are stripped, I would recommend replacing the convertor, If the welded shoulder is broken free, I would recommend replacing the convertor. Either way, drilling and the like is only going to, at best, get the old plug out. Then what?? FYI, above the plug you will find the stator vanes and drive vanes which do not deal well with drilling or imbalance. My friend, I don't see an easy solution for this one. Maybe someone else might come up with another idea, but I think you are looking at a replacement torque convertor.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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