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  #16  
Old 09-23-2009, 07:25 PM
arkie's Avatar
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Location: Marion, Arkansas (near Memphis, TN)
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Pull the hose on your Air Mass Meter and see if it is oily inside - dollar-to-a-donut there is oil depositing on the air mass meter. The air mass meter works kind of like wetting your finger and sticking it in the air to see how much the wind is blowing. It has a heated element and it measures air movement by how fast it loses heat (the more air, the more heat is dissipated). If it is coated with oil, its not going to have the same reaction to incoming air, and the front O2 is picking up that the fuel trim doesn't yield a mixture ratio that is consistent with the air mass meaured. Let me know if your air mass is oily inside.

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  #17  
Old 09-23-2009, 10:35 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBunin View Post
Mercedes was nice enough to put the electrical connector right on top, so I've cleaned that now (without any other disassembly) but the Check Engine light is still on. If a dirty connector was the problem, how long before the light goes out?
Nobody has ever posted about "dirty connector."

This is a hot wire MAF and the cleaning is of that wire, which is internal to the unit. This unit measures density/volume of incoming air by calculating how much that air cools the hot wire.

All very interesting, of course, because this cleaning isn't going to work in any event.
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  #18  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:22 PM
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Location: So Cal, No. Orange county
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All of the measurements and for that matter the establishment of air density and flow over the element are based soley on very slight voltage variations seen by the control unit. ANY single or multiple instances that can effect the current flow will have the ability to alter the factors that establish the air mass
traveling through the assembly...... so a corroded connection caused by disimelar materials being in contact in a varying environment can alter the readings seen by the control unit.
Bill
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
Nobody has ever posted about "dirty connector."

This is a hot wire MAF and the cleaning is of that wire, which is internal to the unit. This unit measures density/volume of incoming air by calculating how much that air cools the hot wire.

All very interesting, of course, because this cleaning isn't going to work in any event.
I am equally skeptical about the connector theory, and I don't recall ever hearing about that before. For the record, these AMMs are thin-film type, not hot wire (I believe). Some people have reported success with cleaning, but not very many. I tried, and it did.... nothing.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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  #20  
Old 09-24-2009, 10:37 AM
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Location: Conroe, TX (Houston Area)
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Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
All very interesting, of course, because this cleaning isn't going to work in any event.
LOL. Probably not, but I don't see the harm in trying. Like I said originally, the car drives just fine. If I didn't have an impending state inspection I'd just keep driving it as-is. If cleaning the sensor works long enough to drive to the inspection station then I have all the time in the world to noodle it over or save up money for parts and tools.

David
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  #21  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:03 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Conroe, TX (Houston Area)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBunin View Post
I searched this site and only found the part for $450. I'd like to support this site, I believe you guys are a big help. Can you link me to the $250 part?
I still have not purchased a new MAF. There was a problem locating the special flexible hose clamp pliers (one source kept telling me they'd have it the next day, and the next, and the next).

So I still want to buy the part here to support you guys, but I'm not going to pay an extra $200 for it. I can buy it locally for $266. Show me where I can get it "here" for anything close to that.
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  #22  
Old 10-09-2009, 02:58 PM
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You can call Phil and see what he can do.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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