My problem is getting the bolt out that holds the distributor in the engine. When I try to loosten it, I can turn it about 1/8 revolution before it begins to sieze up. Im afraid that if I put any more troque on it the head will end up in my wrench. So I can rock it back and forth about 1/8 to 1/4 trurn. I have tried penetrating oil. No help.

Everything is working for now so I dont want to make a problem. But it needs to come out to replace a leaking O ring. Also the screws holding the dirtributor cap on are also frozen. If I break the heads off of them then I need to get the distributor out which I cant do either.

Any techniques for coaxing a bolt / screws out would be appreciated.

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

My experience (to realease any liability) is that if it turns FREELY a little you can go ahead and force it. I broke one but it wasn't really turning that easily. Use lots of rocking back and forth, penetrating oil, time, temperature cycles (heat up, cool down) and prayers. If it breaks, I'm deleting this response

I had a similar problem when I was replacing the distributor on my Nissan Quest minivan.

I had one bolt which wouldn't come out, but which I could turn about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn.

I just kept spraying it and gently, repetitively moved it back and forth for two days, obsessively.

I gradually made some progress, but finally, my impatience and fruatration got the best of me. I took the longest ratchet I had and used brute force until the bolt broke free. It didn't break.

I don't want to necessarily recommend doing what I ultimately did. I don't know if I was lucky or not.

I do recommend continuous, long-term soaking in penetrating oil and working the screw. Eventually, the oil has to seep down the threads and loosen up.

In a sadistic way, I'm kind a glad things like this happen to other people. I'm usually the guy where everything that can go wrong, does go wrong, and a 30 minute job turns into a 30 hour job.

Good luck!

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

How about an ultra-sonic transducer mounted to a socket? If you could mechanically attach the transducer/socket to the bolt head the Ultrasonic vibrations should be transmitted to the bolt. Ultrasonic vibrations could loosen whatever is locking the threads. Let it run for awhile then check it? Pulse it? Attach it to a programmable motorized ratchet that would provide tightening/loosening cycles?

If some one doesn't invent this how will the George Jetson ever get the bolt and nuts loose on his vintage Mercedes Benz. I'm sure a savvy E/M E could work up this solution.

But seriously if you ever do get that bolt out or any nut off an exceptionally good product to use any place dissimilar metals are in use is a product called Tef-Gel that might be available from West Marine. It is a Teflon gel/past that comes in a large hypodermic needle. It has been used for a longtime in aerospace and aviation to prevent galvanic corrosion and the associated galling. I got mine years ago for a Pratt & Whitney worker. I've used it in marine application with great success for years in extremely corrosive environments. Any place you have a steel fastener and alloys together this is the stuff to use. I'm slowly treating all the fasteners on my aluminum headed 603 motor. Good luck, and let me know when that ultrasonic loosening apparatus hits the market!!!!

Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions. I like the ultrasonic idea. I am fairly sure that some of the aluminum threads have broken off inside and are getting jammed when I try to remove the bolt. The reason for my hesitance is if the bolt breaks off I will have to remove the front timing chain cover on the engine which I really really dont want to do. I have spent some time rocking it back and forth but it dosent seem to be getting any easier or better. Its a 13mm bolt to it would be fairly easy to snap it off. I considered applying heat on the aluminum part where the threads are located. But have not done it yet. I am hoping for a really good suggestion from some of the old pro's that frequent this site.

Keep the ideas comming. You never know we might invent something that we all really need.

__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

take a large pin punch and tap the bolt head a few times then apply lots of penentrating spray and let it sit. try heating it also. my advice would be just go a head and take a long breaker bar and apply constant slow pressure till it breaks free. there is no miracle cure to a frozen bolt.

Hi Dave
My inventive mechanic had a bolt like that. He first sprayed it real good with penetrating oil several times to let it get in as far as possible. He then took one of those little air hammers like you use with chisel attachments to coax rusted exhaust pipes off and put a pointed chisel attachment which he ground the point off to make it 1/4" flat on the bottom (like a punch) . He vibrated the air hammer with this "punch attachment" on top of the bolt for about a minute and the bolt came out like nothing! If you have an air compressor - it is worth a try.

I will give it a shot. The only problem is that I dont have a straight shot at the top of the bolt. But I can probably accomplish the same thing with some inventiveness.

Thanks for the suggestion.

__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

If you ground the tip of the attachment to an angle that would sit flat on top of the bolt I think it should work - all you are trying to do is set up vibrations in the bolt.
Maurice

If you have a 3/8 air ratchet it would also provide the hammerring action you need without enough torque to break the bolt. Just regulate your air pressure.

__________________
D.H.

04 ML500
02 E430

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

I dont think i would heat the aluminum with anything but propane for a very short time,so you don't damage anything.

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1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T

Hi Dave

The penetrating oil i use is called AERO KROIL.
It is made by Kano laboratories in Nashville Tn. ph# 1 615 833 4101.Sorry no www link.

I have used this on jet engine, hot section tear downs when i worked at GE with outstanding results.
I now use it on all my automotive repairs.

Good Luck
Razorman

Thanks, Im always looking for some magic juice.

__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

That Kroil is THE BEST! I scored a can of sili-kroil a while back, and want to replace it. Thanks Razorman for the #!!

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"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo