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  #16  
Old 05-28-2003, 07:10 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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I would not think it would be much exp to install a new belt. I'm wondering why anyone would put a new "rebuilt" alternator on a car with a worn out belt though. You may want to check out the tensioner too.
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2003, 11:29 PM
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It's no joke; it's exactly what happened to me: leaking coolant plus a small PS fluid leak lubricating the belt and causing it to slip, which negatively impacted alternator, water pump, power steering and A/C performance.

Zorro's subsequent post confirms the validity, except his belt is slipping because it is too loose, rather than too lubricated as mine was.

Zorro: your alternator guy's assessment is probably correct. If the atlernator (like any generator) spins too slowly it puts out less current. If the water pump is spinning too slowly it cools less efficiently.

If his belt tensioner is not broken, you have a very easy problem to resolve: simply tighten the belt, or replace an old "loose" one (if such a thing is possible) with a new one.

What constitutes "loose" is the question. With some moderate effort, I can lift my belt up and off of the pulleys, yet the tension is proper. To cause slippage, it would have to be quite slack.

Zorro, is your steering also kind of heavy? (You should be able to turn the wheel lock to lock with one finger when the car is idling.) How about your air conditioning -- is it performing optimally? These are belt-driven and should be equally impacted.

If the belt is chewed, replace it immediately; it will break at high RPM. If you don't believe me, shift into 2nd and drive at 40 or so MPH/5000RPM for about a minute. The belt will cheerfully disintegrate. (Trust me; I know. ) And your engine will instantly overheat, and your block may possibly crack. Not a happy day. (Fortunately, that is one which I have NOT experienced...)

Replacing the belt is very easy and very cheap: about $30 for the belt and perhaps 30 minutes time ($37.50?) if your mechanic does it, or just the cost of the belt if you do it.
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Last edited by EricSilver; 05-29-2003 at 09:20 AM.
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  #18  
Old 05-31-2003, 10:50 PM
mkpeters
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Zorro, def change that belt and get a GOOD look at the serpentine path !!! I had all the same problems that you are having and then WHAM!!! the belt broke off and 2 seconds after that my butt was in a sling because I had no pwoer to anything and no clue to the path the belt was supposed to go on.

It took me 3 days to track down somebody on here to send me a file that had the proper path for the belt.

Good luck and change that belt !! It's only $35.00 thru NAPA and well worth the money...
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  #19  
Old 06-01-2003, 10:03 AM
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I may be the only one who does this, but......

When I change the belt on the M103's, I've found the easiest way is to remove the bottom alternator bolt, loosen the upper one and piviot the alternator until the belt slips off. Then when I reinstall the new belt simply pivot the alternator back to the point where the lower bolt slides in place. The tension is usually correct (or is close with only fine tuning with the tensioner) and takes all of 5 minutes. I'm wary of messing too much with the (in my experience) delicate tensioner assembly.

Am I strange or incorrect in doing this? Thanks, Klaus.....
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2003, 11:59 AM
mkpeters
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Actually Klaus, that's the procedure that the manual recomends doing it. Loosend the alternator and slip it on without messing with the tensioner.
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  #21  
Old 06-01-2003, 12:04 PM
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Damn! I thought I was on to something......

Strange, my Maintenance Manual says to use the tensioner to release pressure in order to remove belt on a M103. However, it was printed in 9/86 so they probably updated the procedure since then....... Klaus
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Last edited by klaus kallas; 06-01-2003 at 12:14 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2003, 08:03 PM
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tensioner

Umm, I'm just wondering if the M103 is the same engine I have, I'm not familiar with these numbers yet, but I have a 85 190E 2.3, and I broke two tensioners trying to correctly tighten the belt, so maybe I will forget that and do it the alternator way, it sounds doable. I will still need to get a new tensioner since that adjustment screw holds it in place, and without it I found the tensioner slowly sliding down and resulting extra slack of the belt.

Right now my belt is all over the place, but everything still works.

xp
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2003, 11:42 PM
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Well I made an appointment with the Benz Doctor and he said I need belt, tensioner, fan clutch...all installed for $880 Canadian Dollars... $641 USD is that fair? I want to thank you all for the help...I will update when I have the work done..unless it is too expensive and an easy DIY...let me know
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  #24  
Old 06-02-2003, 12:24 AM
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xp190, the 2.3 is a different engine (M102) but is essentially a six cylinder (m103) engine with two cylinders missing!

Yes, the alternator method should work exactly the same. It is super easy and once the new belt is slipped on you have plenty of leverage to pull the alternator back to its original position (and thus reinstall the lower bolt). Good luck, Klaus......
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  #25  
Old 06-02-2003, 07:24 AM
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Belt must be slipping mighty bad. But what the heck, replace it and eliminate some of the mystery. Since it's wearing on one side check that the tensioner pulley bearing isn't on the way out while you're there. When it gets worse you'll really know it.
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  #26  
Old 06-16-2003, 10:09 PM
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Ok, so I have replaced the Viscous Fan Clutch, Belt, Auto belt tensioner, thermostat works fine, and the coolant has been flushed. All this cost me $1000 and the problems (engine temp and weird voltage issues/current draw) still occur. Radiator and cap, water pump and heater fan motor were changed in March of 2000 so they are not culprits. Now my tech says he is going to change relays and switches for the Aux fans. I SUGGESTED HE DO THOSE FIRST to save money by trying the cheap stuff first, but alas he was confident before that it was the clutch and belt and tensioner causing problems....$h!t, I am wondering what else there is to do....

Someone please advise....could it be the Aux fan motors or the fans thmselves? Also would a power capacitor for my stereo help reduce the current draw/voltage issues??

thank you

Mark
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  #27  
Old 06-17-2003, 11:21 PM
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Ok, think I am getting a capacitor for the stereo to solve the voltage issues, now for the overheating:

As previously stated with all the repairs done by the PO and the ones I did last friday, I spent the day there as he tried to re-diagnose his incorrect initial diagnosis. 5 hrs later he tells me i need to replace the push button control unit of my ACC and that it is $880 CAD plus $100 for install..so WTF now it is a $2000 job when it could have been 1000. He said the high speed fans are not turning on when the temp sensor requires them to be on. Checked switches, relays modules and sensors and they are all good, does this diagnosis make sense? Then the #$%^&* decides that I shouldpay $195 today for all the diagnosis work done today!!???
I told him I'd consult with another tech before I'd pay (you people being the other techs )

Please advise, as I don't have $1000 for repairs this month and it is hot out now, so other solutions would be great
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  #28  
Old 06-18-2003, 12:13 AM
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Zorro listen. You've got a corroded chassis ground in your engine compartment that's causing your power problems.

There are two that are easily accessable in the engine compartment -- it will be the one on the driver's side as this feeds the aux fans, although both should be cleaned and retightened at the same time. The connection can be intermittant but usually will fail if you put a high load on the connection by operating the ac and headlights at the same time. You may notice your left headlight (drivers side) as being noticeably dimmer. You may also notice that operating the left turn signal puts enough additional load on the connection to make it fail. It simply will not pass enough current to operate the aux fans reliably.

Find the chassis ground point on the drivers side in the engine compartment. This will be several brown wires with ring terminals beneath a screw into the chassis close to the drivers side headlight (if I recall correctly). Remove the screw and clean the ring terminals and chassis connection with fine sandpaper and then reinstall. This should cure your problem.

One final note: there are two sensors that operate the aux fans-- one is a temp sensor on the engine block and is not the same one that operates your temp gauge on your dash; the other is a high pressure switch on the ac system. If the temp sensor has not been replaced then go ahead and replace it also. It can be intermittant and this is cheap insurance.

Oh, and I highly recommend a new mechanic.

Ken
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  #29  
Old 06-18-2003, 02:16 AM
chicago124
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Hi,

As for the pushbutton unit, look on ebay or on car-part.com (I think that's it or something real close) they have them all the time for a lot less money.

Regards,
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  #30  
Old 06-18-2003, 04:26 AM
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KFuller, you ROCK I will try the grounds and temp sensor. Thank you for the detailed post.

Chicago, after I try bove repairs, I will indeed search ebay for said part.

Thanks,

Mark.
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