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  #1  
Old 07-21-2003, 04:50 PM
LarryBible
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Alignment Experts?

My 300E with 255,000 miles is wearing both rear tires on the inner corner. I do not know exact measurement point for measuring ride height, but I expect it is low from age and miles on springs.

Can I correct for camber change by individually adjusting toe links? I can use an align a matic to adjust them individually, but risk ending up with a slight thrust angle error. How critical is the thrust angle? How far can the thrust angle be off with no ill effect?

Thanks,
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2003, 06:57 PM
Pete Geither's Avatar
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I was taught by the Hunter reps that anything up to .50 is acceptable.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2003, 08:03 PM
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Larry:

From replacing links on my 300D and looking around, I'd say you will have to adjust both the camber and toe-in to get them right, especially on later ones without the torque link adjustment. Changing camber will change toe, etc.

Take a good look at the condition of the rubber in the links, too -- if you see shreds of stuff sticking out, the bushings are gone and you need new links rather than just an alignment.

If you jack it up and put it on jack stands, leaving the subframe hanging, I'll bet you find cracked rear subframe mounts, too.

I'll be doing all this when I get my property paid off and can afford all the bits at once -- I've got the diff mounts, but need the camber struts, tie rods, and a torque and thrust link for the left side (just did the ringht one). I plan to remove the entire subframe and do it all at once.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #4  
Old 07-22-2003, 07:54 AM
LarryBible
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Thanks for the replies.

A few months ago I inspected everything under the rear very closely and could find nothing with any hints of being loose, cracked or otherwise bad. I put diff mounts in at that time.

If I remember correctly, the only adjustable member that I could find was the ones for adjusting toe. Are there any other members that are adjustable?

Thanks again,
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  #5  
Old 07-22-2003, 11:40 AM
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Rear toe link is the only adjustment.

IF you're running too much negative camber then you've got worn parts.

The factory manual uses special tools. The readings are in mm but they happen to correspond to the Beissbarth alignment rack at my dealer. My right height is right at the recommended values +/- 1 mm according to their machine. I measure 15-5/8" from the center of the star on my wheel to the fender lip.

I'm not aware of a way to adjust out camber with toe. Replacing the camber link, spings, and/or spring pads come to mind.

Thrust angle depending on how bad it is off will create drivability problems. If you don't notice your car going going crooked or jerking left or right going over rail road tracks and things like that, I don't think I'd worry about it.

After I replaced my rear subframe mounts and links, my car would do all of the things above. The alignment guy said rear track was "off the charts" (and his chart goes up 3") and the toe-in was way out. HE didn't know how I made it to his shop (180 miles away). The rear tires suffered tremendous tire wear.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2003, 09:51 PM
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Larry:

Camber link is indeed not adjustable, so I'm assuming they are shot. The rubber tends to compress on the loaded side, making the link effectively shorter.

Time for replacements, I'd bet.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 07-22-2003, 11:20 PM
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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When replacing the rear links, consider:

Toe link requires no additional parts

Camber link requires a sleeve and new bolt kit (as do the torque & thrust arms). The old bolt kits and sleeves are not compatable. The new parts are not expensive but require a XZN socket & 18 mm nuts. Fitting that XZN is not easy, I prefered the 17 and 19 mm hex bolt and nut arrangement.

HTH,
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2003, 01:49 AM
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I just reamed out the bushing to fit the old bolt. Problem solved.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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