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  #16  
Old 11-21-2003, 09:34 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Peter, that's what I mean. Folks get worked up about the precision with which they set the pointer at the tight end, but not as much about how they set the pointer at the loose end. Just an observation.

Sixto
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2003, 09:40 PM
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I'm sure I will figure this tensioner stuff out the first time I try to put the belt on.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2003, 04:26 AM
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If you have the time, do you think you could take a picture of the new tensioner alongside the old? It might be useful for others to be able to see the position of the idler wheel on a new tensioner versus a worn one.

Gary
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  #19  
Old 11-22-2003, 06:52 AM
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Consider it done Gary. I will get it either today or tomorrow.
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  #20  
Old 11-22-2003, 11:51 AM
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Re: wait a minute now

Quote:
Originally posted by engatwork
(the tensioner system makes a cylinder head rebuild look easy by now:0).
Imagine my frustration after replacing my water pump only to find that the tensioner was stripped!! I was about ready to burn this damn thing!!
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  #21  
Old 11-22-2003, 02:53 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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I was told to get a new tensioner when I needed to replace the water pump on the TE. Sure enough, the rubber was frayed, I'd have needed one if I hadn't gotten the new one.

With the new visco clutch, this was a $600 water pump....

Good news is that it works perfectly now.

Peter
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2003, 08:44 PM
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unbelievable difference between old and new

Check it out.
Thanks for the suggestion of getting the shot Phalcon.

Once I put the belt it was obvious how it works - thanks everyone.
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2003, 10:54 PM
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The pointer can be useful, but it's position by no means indicates the belt tension is correct. Been there.

Common sense/experience are the best indicators of correct belt tension.
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