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Old 12-01-2003, 11:42 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 5
Question Metal transmission cooler lines replacement


My wife just before Thanksgiving had the misfortune to hit a deer with her beloved dark blue 84 300D just a mile from home and thinking nothing serious happened drove home. Fortunately, she was unhurt, but when she got home she "noticed" that the hood was bent, the grill smashed in, and the right headlight demolished. After examining the car, I also found that the radiator was smashed into the fan and beyond repair, the aux fan was smashed in and the right steel transmission fluid line got bent and was leaking right at the grommet attaching it to the oil pan. I wanted to scrap the car and find another but my wife would sooner part with me than with her baby. (the baby is getting pretty old!) To make a long story short, I have been shopping for parts and have now replaced or am in the process of replacing everything but am uncertain about the transmission line. My question is: How hard is that to replace? I have found that I can do lights, hood removal, radiator replacement, etc., but have never tackled transmission lines. Is it a major job to replace the metal line(s) and/or are there any special tricks or things I should know before I jack up the car again? I have searched the archives but can only find references to the rubber lines connecting the steel ones to the radiator. Any assistance anyone could provide in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:57 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 158
On my 190e there are 3 parts to the right side cooler line.

1. The metal line connecting to the trans, then stops at the front of the block.

2. The rubber line with a spring wrapped around it, that connects to #1.

3. The metal line that runs down the radiator and connects to #2.

All are pretty easy to replace. It looks like you are talking about #1. If so, its just a matter of lining it up correctly, because it is bent in several directions to connect at the appropriate locations to the block. It should be pretty evident when you put it up there. 1 caution - When i put mine in I had used the old copper crush washer, where the banjo(?) fitting connects to the trans. When i started the car trans fluid started shooting everywhere, so make sure you get a new crush washer, and tighten it down pretty hard. I was suprised how hard i had to tighten mine down. You will know if its tight enough if there is no fluid leaking.

This all assumes of course that your system is similar to mine.
1988 190e 2.3 with 91 engine
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:00 PM
Q Q is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
If the radiator touched the fan, you might consider replacing the fan clutch and water pump. My clutch was shot due to a minor incident with a guy backing into me. I found out 6 months later that the water pump was also affected by the collision. Would have been cheaper to take care of it while everything else was out of the way.
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 11,939
I have seen transmission lines cut off past the damaged sections and "rubber hosed" to the connecting line at the front. Use hose clamps to attach it and make sure you use hose rated for hot transmission fluid. Or - if you can just purchase a new replacement hose and install it. Pretty straight forward job once you get underneath the car. You will need some crush washers for the tranny end.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 700
I did both my transmisson lines, the old ones were damaged and leaking, it was no big job at all if one of the bolts tha holds it to the side of the engine did not strip. It is very important to thighten them at the tranny end very well with the crush washers, I managed to reuse my old ones and propperly secure the lines to the engine. You don't even have to worry about a lot of fluid leakign out, some will, but not a lot.

1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project.
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