Replacing the rear wheel bearings on a W123, W126 - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #76 06-21-2011, 01:41 AM

Somewhere in processes like this it is common to heat the bearing in oil just before attempting to install it... being careful of how you handle it afterwards of course... I keep a hot plate with a Tuna can half filled with oil to do this sort of thing.... many manuals tell you the exact temperature to which you need to heat the bearing...

Stretch · #77 06-21-2011, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Somewhere in processes like this it is common to heat the bearing in oil just before attempting to install it... being careful of how you handle it afterwards of course... I keep a hot plate with a Tuna can half filled with oil to do this sort of thing.... many manuals tell you the exact temperature to which you need to heat the bearing...

When I worked as an aircraft mechanic refurbishing wheels we had a fan oven for this sort of thing...

...it was also handy for cooking pizza.

leathermang · #78 06-21-2011, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

When I worked as an aircraft mechanic refurbishing wheels we had a fan oven for this sort of thing...
...it was also handy for cooking pizza.

Like one of those fancy ' convection ovens' very nice for crispy crusts..

Also.... for reinstalling bearing races...I mean putting in the new ones...as it is verboten to use the old one which was punched out again..... you take that old one and carefully grind all around the outside as evenly as you can... one thousandth off will make that into the best installer for that new race you can find... don't take too much or its function as keeping the other in line by using the bore as a guide is lost... so almost a tight fit.... but not enough to make a problem getting the now ' tool ' back out... combined with the heavy hammer Diesel911 mentioned and it turns into a routine smooth job...Then either weld a support across it to hit... or use a socket to span it and tap on it...

azitizz · #79 10-07-2011, 10:58 PM

Hi There, So I've got as far as getting the brake caliper off and then the rotor, now in the DIY it says you may need to use the brass drift to get the axle out. I'm assuming you stick it in the hole that you can see the end of the axle through the hub and knock it from the outside inward?

I'm wondering because Ive been knocking away at it (hard) for a while and seem to be stuck here. Does the axle have enough play to allow for it to be knocked out from the outside of the hub? I read on some other posts that perhaps heat can help. Like a torch. If I use that should I knock it while its hot or wait for it to cool down again?

Ive got a real job here. Ive driven on this lose hub for a couple of months now, it was a bad idea to keep going as it looks like I've worn the brake pads unevenly and I just replaced them. Also I think the assembly was getting so hot I toasted the rubber in the calipers, and everything seems to be on rock solid tight.
Thanks for any pointers.
Michael

whunter · #80 10-08-2011, 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azitizz

Hi There, So I've got as far as getting the brake caliper off and then the rotor, now in the DIY it says you may need to use the brass drift to get the axle out. I'm assuming you stick it in the hole that you can see the end of the axle through the hub and knock it from the outside inward?

I'm wondering because Ive been knocking away at it (hard) for a while and seem to be stuck here. Does the axle have enough play to allow for it to be knocked out from the outside of the hub? I read on some other posts that perhaps heat can help. Like a torch. If I use that should I knock it while its hot or wait for it to cool down again?

Ive got a real job here. Ive driven on this lose hub for a couple of months now, it was a bad idea to keep going as it looks like I've worn the brake pads unevenly and I just replaced them. Also I think the assembly was getting so hot I toasted the rubber in the calipers, and everything seems to be on rock solid tight.
Thanks for any pointers.
Michael

If it is corroded in place, I suggest drowning it in PB Blaster.
Since you are replacing the bearing, it is OK to use a propane torch for heating the Flange, anything hotter risks wrecking it.

Flange
MB# 1263501646

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azitizz · #81 11-27-2011, 10:44 PM

So... Ive finally got the tools I need and have been able to move along further with this. Still no luck getting the right rear axle separated out of the shaft.

Tomorrow I will be attempting another round with heat and then a sledge hammer and a steel bar the same size as the axle. I dont seem to have much choice. I may be looking at a new axle or a new hub, or new trailing arm assembly, or all of the above...

I managed to get the left side bearings apart. Im working on the races still. I cant seem to get the race to budge off the hub. Im using a chisel the same as in the DIY.

I accidentally made a gouge in a part of the hub while trying to separate the race. Now I may be trying to chisel in the wrong place. Should I be sriking at "A" or "B" (see pictures) Ive been striking at "A" so far without success. Would the gouge be considered serious?

I believe its a part that may be directly against the seal?, However it looks as if the marks of where the seal rub against the hub may be just outside the gouge mark...

Diesel911 · #82 11-27-2011, 11:51 PM

Whatever you do do not beat on the End of the shaft Hub with a Punch to drive it out. Several people have had the shaft end of the Hub swell and become evene harder to get out.
And, a New one is over $300.

When I did mine as some other members have done I used an old Brake Rotor attached to the Hube and Beat on the Rotor to get the Hub off.
In my case I was salvaging the Hub off of a damaged Rear Trailing Arm.

The dent may be away from the sealing area but if you want you could:
File down and use wet dry sand paper on the burr/dent. Degrease it good with Brake Cleaner and fill the dent with JB Weld.
Us the wet and dry sand paper and dress down the JB Weld after it is well cured/hardened.

If you know someone that has a Bearing Separator; often tightening it right where the Bearng Race and Shaft abutt each other pushes the Race away a bit.
After that you can tap on the Separator and the Race wil Eventually come off.
Also heat witha Propane Torch often expands them enoug to make them a little easier to come off.

whunter · #83 11-28-2011, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azitizz

So... Ive finally got the tools I need and have been able to move along further with this. Still no luck getting the right rear axle separated out of the shaft.

Here are some special tools for the job.

Universal Hub Puller | eBay

Please note that MANY auto parts stores rent this tool, cheap.

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azitizz · #84 11-28-2011, 09:38 AM

Thanks Diesel911. I may just go with the JB weld solution. The picture makes the gouge look deeper than it really is. But I think Ill file it down and fil it in and sand it down again.

So will the race separate in location "A" or "B" of the picture?

whunter · #85 11-28-2011, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azitizz

Thanks Diesel911. I may just go with the JB weld solution. The picture makes the gouge look deeper than it really is. But I think Ill file it down and fil it in and sand it down again.

So will the race separate in location "A" or "B" of the picture?

Location #A is where it should separate.

There are several easy ways to get the damaged race off:

Inner Front Wheel Bearing Race removal trick - YouTube

How To Remove Pressed-on Bearings - YouTube

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azitizz · #86 11-28-2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Location #A is where it should separate.

There are several easy ways to get the damaged race off:

Inner Front Wheel Bearing Race removal trick - YouTube

How To Remove Pressed-on Bearings - YouTube
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Thanks, I was sure it was "B" after a while. Ive been hammering at "B" and it seems to be separating a hair, but nothing more. Ill go back to "A", and if it takes me any longer than I hope Ill do the cutting method in the second link you sent. I Was thinking of cutting it off or gouging it and cracking it but I was reading in the posts the race could be used for installing the new one so I didnt want to destroy it. At this point I may just go ahead.

Also what kind of oil should you heat up the new bearings in before installing them. Clean motor oil?

Thanks, Im slowly getting there.

azitizz · #87 12-05-2011, 10:26 PM

Actually it was "B"I ended up using the grinder and chisel method.

Ive finally got to the point of removing the stuck axle. I used a sledge and a steel bar almost the exact same size as the axle. I made sure the steel bar was evenly seatted into the hub and I would give it a steady whack. After a few whacks, increasingly stronger ones, I could see it was beginning to move, and eventually came off.

Pretty nasty inside. Below is a pic of how bad it was. Bearings were non-existant and all friction was directly on the inner outside race and the metal from the inner seal ring. I think the seal ring actually saved the housing. I forgot to take a picture of the Race but it must have been getting so hot as it was actually deformed as if it was squished in the spot the friction was most.

Putting on the new bearing on the hub shaft was really easy using a can to heat up oil with the bearing in it. It slipped right on there and in seconds it was tight.

Now Ive got to the point of tightening the bearings. Its very tight to turn, I ended up breaking off the special tool notches.

Im not sure why it happened. i thought I was checking to make sure the tool was always well seated before gving it a good heave.

Unlike the tool mentioned in the DIY, and in other posts, mine doesnt fit snuggly and actually almost falls out if you dont hold it there. Now what.
I see there is still play in the hub. On the dial Im using its still showing there is at least

.005" of play and even more depending on where the gauge is placed for the reading. I know Im not sure why but the reading is different depending on weather I place the gauge touching the inner part of the hub or the outer ring. Its a visible play and audible when I push and pull on the hub.
It seemed like It tightened up to a point that it wouldnt turn anymore, howver that cant be possible as theres still play. It was tight up to that point but I managed to at least make a full rotation of the hub with the bar perhaps even more, so Im not sure why it would all of a sudden be so tight. I first broke off the bolt, and luckily I didnt have to mess arround too much to get it out of the hub. I got a new bolt and then "pop!" goes the tabs. I had to use my leg to heave hard enough as my arms werent doing the job at that point.

What could it be that makes the threading so difficult?

azitizz · #88 12-08-2011, 11:01 PM

Im contemplating driving the car to a Mechanic to get the bearings properly tightened. Im not sure why it got so tight before the play was within the limits, but I feel like if I am to get another tool and try again the same thing would happen.

One thing Im wondering is if I were to drive with the rear bearings not perfectly set for about 25 miles, (the distance to nearest mechanic) would I be risking serious damage to the newly installed bearings?

I have only tightened the right side as far as it can go without using the metal bar. I thought I could fashion the broken tool to be able to hold the slotted nut by grinding down the sides to expose new tabs. At least to tighten it as much as the other side and bring it to the shop for the rest....

P.S. what is the rectangular plate for that comes with the bearing kit? I noticed it also comes with the parking brake-pad replacements.

ajrn · #89 11-13-2012, 09:50 PM

Anyone looking at selling/renting a 115 589 02 07 00 socket???

I'm undertaking this repair, along with rear spring/shock etc replacement..

Contact me quick-- or I'll be buying from 'ma benz, as I don't see another way to get one.. Can paypal immediately

whunter · #90 11-13-2012, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajrn

Anyone looking at selling/renting a 115 589 02 07 00 socket???

I'm undertaking this repair, along with rear spring/shock etc replacement..

Contact me quick-- or I'll be buying from 'ma benz, as I don't see another way to get one.. Can paypal immediately

Did you check here?
Tool Rental Program - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

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