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Battery overflowing.
Hi, I've got a 1984 300D with approximately 205,000 miles. Last week I noticed a terrible smell from under the hood that turned out to be the battery overflowing. The battery was ancient so I changed it, it was okay for a few days but today it started again. It is fairly hot outside (in the upper 90s, I think) and the car gets hot but it has never been overheated, it never goes up past the next bar after 80 degrees.
Could my alternator be overcharging the battery? If not, what could be causing this? Thanks. |
#2
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Answer
The alternator is over charging...
battery blew up - attention PEH http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=445147 Better take a peek under battery tray! : ( http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1633733 I found my battery problem, but how do I clean this? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1927470 Spewing Battery ! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=280541 "Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=93569 Pictorial on Installing the Voltage Regulator http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=166105 Battery Safety http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1057827 Starter health is important to your diesel!!! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=739798 Tackling a starter, need suggestions (and sympathy) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1001659 Reasons to change the W124 Alternator brushes/V regulator! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=121404 Battery selection / Charging System / jump starting / cold weather battery issues http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1058189 Have a great day. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 08-20-2010 at 05:20 PM. |
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Guess a replacement is in order then, thanks.
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#4
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Check the voltage with the motor running at the battery terminals. No more than 14 volts should be present. Sounds like your voltage regulator on the alternator may have failed.
You could be boiling the battery acid out of the battery. Clean up the corrosive spillage and neutralise the acid.. Do not keep driving with this condition as it could total your new battery. Plus the alternator was not really designed to put out constant high current like your indications seem to indicate it might be doing. Usually again it is a failed voltage regulator and the voltage test indicates it. The voltage regulator can be changed with the alternator on the car. |
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I hope you neutralized the acid from the boilover.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#6
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I just tested it, I am getting 15.8 volts at the battery with the engine idling. How do I determine if it's the regulator or the alternator itself? I'm tempted to change the regulator and go from there.
Last edited by alfa 75; 08-20-2010 at 06:23 PM. |
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Yeah, with baking soda and water - is that strong enough?
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#8
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Regulator's Shot
Obtain a New one and R+R.
Problem will be fixed. 14.5 Volts is the Max you should see,Regardless. Yes , a nice strong Basic solution of Baking Soda and Water,will do the Neutralization.Rinse well and then inspect for potential rust toeholds.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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Quote:
I'll now elaborate. PULL YOUR BATTERY TRAY OUT AND CLEAN ALL TRACES OF ACID AND GUNK FROM THE FENDER AND THE OVERFLOW AREA!!!!!!!!! get all traces of leaves out of the spring pockets while you are in there. if there is any paint damage, clean it out really really well, and treat it with por-15 black, and then paint to match, and seal well all seams damaged by the acid. you want pics of the mess I am working on fixing for a customer? it's not pretty.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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Thanks
Vstech,
Would it be going too far to suggest pulling the Plastic Fender-Well Liner from Underneath and inspecting there also?
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#11
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the car I'm working on, had a 3" hole in the area under the battery, and another 2" hole under the plastic liner... nothing is too far if you want the car to last.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Step one is always to replace the regulator. It's the primary failure mode, especially for your symptoms. It's also an easier job and much less expensive than replacing the entire alternator. [If you replace the regulator, be sure to keep the old regulator for awhile.] If that fixes the problem, fine. If not, go on to step two.
Step two is to get a new (rebuilt?) alternator, which will come with a new regulator, but there will be a core charge that you'll get back when you turn in your old alternator. Before you do that, remove the new regulator that you bought in step one and put back the old regulator that you removed and kept. Even if the old regulator is good, its brushes will be worn down. Keep the new regulator as a spare. Put it away in the car's spare tire well with the other parts and tools you carry. Then you'll be prepared to do an on-the-road repair should the need ever arise. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#14
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pics of rust under battery tray from acid...
if your car is intact, it's hard to tell what you are looking at in the pics.
the metal below the battry tray is gone, the metal on the firewall below the tray metal has been eaten through in 2 places. the metal under the fender liner where the doorsill meets the firewall has a heavy coat of rust.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#15
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It wont hurt to use too much baking soda. If you are not painting, you dont need to rise the baking soda away with clean water. The white residue will help keep everything from going acidic.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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