Trying to fit an aluminium W126 / 107 trailing arm to a W123 - a question of compatib - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

charmalu · #46 03-13-2013, 02:38 PM

So the bottom line would be to remove the whole rear suspention from the SEC and move it on over to the 300SD?

Trailing arms, Sub Frame, Axles and Diff. So should be around $300 for the whole packafe + - .

Charlie

Stretch · #47 03-14-2013, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

So the bottom line would be to remove the whole rear suspention from the SEC and move it on over to the 300SD?

Trailing arms, Sub Frame, Axles and Diff. So should be around $300 for the whole packafe + - .

Charlie

I don't think so Charlie. The trailing arms seem to be the same dimensions whether they are steel or aluminium to me. The only problem I have for my W123 is how to fit the anti-roll bar so that the anti-dive set up works. I'm going to have to modify either the W123 roll bar or shorten a W126 one to make it fit - but then again I might make a custom one (in my dreams!)

daw_two · #48 03-14-2013, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmbdiesel

Did you ever get the trailing arms back?
Are they compatible with W126 300SD?

CMB --- got your PM, but thought I would reply here, so everyone could see.

I never did get them back because I thought they wouldn't fit a w123 nor w126 diesel. After reading all of Stretch/Army's posts, I'm thinking you could make them work, but there seems to be a lot of effort in changing the other stuff. If I needed to replace a rear trailing arm, I'd just go to the junkyard and find a good one of the correct type.

I actually thought about those rear trailing arms a few weeks ago since I had that trip planned to Hot Springs, AR --- don't know where I would have put them though; traveling with 2 girls fills up the 300SDL FAST !!!!

Stretch · #49 03-14-2013, 12:53 PM

Thanks for the update daw_two

Stretch · #50 04-29-2013, 09:43 AM

(Sorry to use this forum as my personal note pad!)

SEC rear caliper left hand side P/N is 126 420 04 83

SEC rear caliper right hand side P/N is 126 420 05 83

MBZ123 · #51 05-03-2013, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

(Sorry to use this forum as my personal note pad!)

SEC rear caliper left hand side P/N is 126 420 04 83

SEC rear caliper left hand side P/N is 126 420 05 83

Did you mean to write right? (For P/N 126 420 05 83.) Sometimes, okay most times, I manage to confuse myself too.

Thanks for documenting the data BTW.

MBZ123

Stretch · #52 05-04-2013, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBZ123

Did you mean to write right? (For P/N 126 420 05 83.) Sometimes, okay most times, I manage to confuse myself too.

Thanks for documenting the data BTW.

MBZ123

Ummmm yes I think I did! That'll be the left on the right, right?

(Made good now - thanks)

Graham · #53 09-05-2013, 09:30 AM

I was offered a set of aluminum trailing arms off a 6.9. But I assume they would have at least same problems as you have found with 126 arms? Would you agree? Especially if I want plug and play.

Simpler=Better · #54 09-05-2013, 10:34 AM

A custom roll bar should only be around $400, and you could go super heavy. Or cut up the 126 bar, sleeve it with tubing, and weld back together.

Stretch · #55 09-05-2013, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I was offered a set of aluminum trailing arms off a 6.9. But I assume they would have at least same problems as you have found with 126 arms? Would you agree? Especially if I want plug and play.

W116 6.9 looks like it is the same as what I've got - I say looks 'cos I'm looking at the pictures on the Russian EPC.

Here they are =>

It looks good - but - in addition to the roll bar problem I think you might have an axle problem. I think - only think! - that the W116 axle cans are larger than the W126 / W123 ones so you might not get a W123 axle to sit in the intended hole on the trailing arm. This might not be a problem though...

...it is a gamble.

If however, you've got something from a W109 on offer 6.3 instead of 6.9 think twice! =>

Very different and probably wasn't aluminium anyway - so ignore me I'm just being silly...

Stretch · #56 09-05-2013, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

A custom roll bar should only be around $400, and you could go super heavy. Or cut up the 126 bar, sleeve it with tubing, and weld back together.

I was thinking 10 minutes with my TIG welder and the W126 / 107 ends welded onto a W123 bar...

Simpler=Better · #57 09-05-2013, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I was thinking 10 minutes with my TIG welder and the W126 / 107 ends welded onto a W123 bar...

Oh yeah, if you have a welder why is this even a question?

Stretch · #58 09-05-2013, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Oh yeah, if you have a welder why is this even a question?

It isn't really a question anymore. This thread has developed over quite a few months. It just needs someone to do it and show that it can actually be done.

If the little d gets sorted out and the car officially becomes mine then I'll do the conversion - future situation permitting.

I am a bit concerned about welding a torsion bar though.

Simpler=Better · #59 09-05-2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

It isn't really a question anymore. This thread has developed over quite a few months. It just needs someone to do it and show that it can actually be done.

If the little d gets sorted out and the car officially becomes mine then I'll do the conversion - future situation permitting.

I am a bit concerned about welding a torsion bar though.

Don't be :p

Just sleeve any cuts, and preheat before welding. Let the whole piece cool slowly (wrap with newspapers, old fur coat, etc) so it doesn't get too brittle.

Stretch · #60 09-06-2013, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Don't be :p

Just sleeve any cuts, and preheat before welding. Let the whole piece cool slowly (wrap with newspapers, old fur coat, etc) so it doesn't get too brittle.

...but I still have thoughts of good forged grain structure...